Have a 40' 2000 U320. This is the second time the cable pulls has come out of their valve housing and leaving me with a stinky situation. Have talked to people about adding electric dump valves BECAUSE . . . The last time I replaced the whole cable pull valve with a new Valterra one, the directions that came with the valve said the cable should not be bent more than 30" dia. Well FT has these two valves bent to about 10" dia. I installed the cable pull once since we are full-timers and cannot site around without a valve, BUT I said the next time I have to do this I was going to go with the concensus of installing electric valves. the only two I can find are the Valterra and the Dump Master. I am tending toward the Dump Master.
Does one know what FT is using in the new coaches with electric dump valves?
Has any one replaced their valves with electric ones? Is there enough clearances for electric valves?
Any suggestions on where to get the 5-10 amp power for the electric valves? Thought I would just
jump onto the electric fill solenoid valve circuit. Don't plan on filling and dumping at the dame time....
TomB
I have never had a dump valve pull break in 20 years of full-timing(knock on wood). I am convinced the reason is that I always EASE the valves open rather than yanking them open against their stops. There are lots of RV's that have been running for lots of years with mechanical valves. Please consider your usage practices when you evaluate the electric option.
Well, we had the electric valves on our 02 42ft and replaced them with the non-electric as the electric valves would not completely close the valves. We tried several times and had FOT do work on them and the outcome was to go with non-electric. but then we tend to want to keep it simple. the more things on the coach the more things to go wrong. i'm just saying.....
The mechanical valves in our 1997 FT are stiff, but they seal when closed and open with moderate pressure. I don't know if they are original equipment, but I expect they might be. I do try to be gentle when I operate them. I installed a third valve to aid in case of some kinds of failure of the two primary valves. The third valve also aids in back flushing the black tank with grey water.
I had a manual valve break off in the parking lot last year on the morning we were preparing to leave NAC. I didn't pull too hard, it just broke but you can bet I replaced it with another manual valve.
I know there is controversy over using vegetable oil an empty tank to lube the valves but it works for me. I try to keep them smooth and easy to pull with silicone on the stainless shaft and oil in the tank.
I just bought a dump master to put on my 1990 U300. Since my batteries are right beside my dump valves I'm gona install a relay and put a switch in the bathroom and one in the bay. 'll let you know how much trouble it it.
I can't find info on "Dump Master" electric drain valves. Anyone have a link?
My guess is its the Drain Master!
drain master | waste master | polychute (http://www.drainmaster.com/index.html)
I have used Barker (Barker_Home (http://www.barkermfg.com/) ) Auto-Drain #24130 electric holding tank drain valve motors. These do not require any plumbing as they are bolted to the outside of Valtera valve housing and the original pull handle can still be used if desired. We have a switch inside and outside to open valve. Barker_Home (http://www.barkermfg.com/)