It's my turn to ask for help.
After reading and rereading all the post on replacing the generator fuel lines, I'm stumped.
We have a '99 (built in June '98) U320 with 197 gal tank.
Have been working on this project for several weeks.
First fed the gen with clean fuel from a container, ran great. Next removed the fiberglass covers for both sides of the tank and cut out the 2" pvc pipes on the left side. I can see some fittings on the right side and I think I see one in the middle of the tank covered by wires and stuff from the left side. Can't reach that one.
Thinking (hoping) that we had the feed line, we started to replace the old line by splicing the old and new together. Can not be pulled through.
The lines exit out the right side of gen compartment.
Everything is cable tied, but got those cut. Then the fun began. What we thought was the feed, turned out to be the return line and the line we were feeding to the bulkhead disappears into the mess at the bulkhead. We are stumped at that point.
The old line that we did pull so far looks to be in good shape, no cracks that we could see. So we're thinking that the feed line may be in the same shape.
May just construct a "wet tank", the sailors among us will know what that is, and wait until next year and try to move the fuel tank to get at the middle fitting.
Any suggestions or am I missing something??? Will try to reach the middle fitting from the left side and maybe it's loose. The U320 seems to have a different configuration then the 270 and 295 that I read about here.
dick
Dick,
You may have to slide the fuel tank out about half way to do the job. That's what Cummins did with my genset fuel hose replacement. If your tank is heavy with fuel, drive it and wait until the fuel is low to do the job. It's not worth it to syphon the fuel into 55 gallon barrels to do this job.
Pete,
That's what we were thinking. That will have to wait for next year. Too much to do before we leave after Christmas.
Can always use 6 gal yellow tanks to feed the gen. Not the best plan, but may be our only option for now.
I checked the fitting just now. It's 3 1/2' to reach it and still no wrench room.
dick
I had a similar issue but with my Agua-Hot and was contemplating trying to replace the fuel lines. Roger Berke (the Aqua-Hot guru) suggested I just start by replacing the fittings on each side of the filter and the supply line to the furnace. That "appears" to have done the trick as it is working fine now. However, I say "appears" because the issue came and then left once before. I'm just going to wait and see what happens.
Replacing the lines appears to be close to impossible from my explorations from underneath and what has appeared on this forum.
Not for the faint of heart!!! Enter at your own risk.
Finally got the generator hose replaced. Not a easy job. No way to reach the fitting as it is inboard of the engine feed fitting and that was 3'6" inside of the bay.
So, we did the next best thing. Cut a 12" hole into the floor from the inside of the bus. With that, we could see both fittings and that job got easier.
First we cut the carpet, then the 1/2" sub floor, and the 1 1/2" blue insulation. There we found the fiberglass/aluminum bottom. Using 1"x2" boards, we pressed away as much as we could of the wiring, hoses and ect. from the top of the inside bay. We cut the bottom fiberglass/aluminum with aviation snips and a die grinder. Once we got all the "stuff" pushed aside, getting to the fitting was a piece of cake, well almost. Still had to feed the hose in from the bulkhead.
Along the way, found the vent hose pinched between the bottom of the frame and bulkhead. It was also plugged with spider stuff. Who knows what kind of problem that caused.
Today's assignment to reassemble everything that we took apart.
This also means that Sue gets her new "wood" flooring installed next year.
All of this was going on while watching the deer around our house.
I would suggest that when you replace the floor, you leave a floor doorway to the tank so when you need to replace the fuel hose to the engine you don't have to redo the entire floor.
Great out of the box thinking!
I'm in awe! Takes real nerve to do that sort of repair. Nice work. And great idea about the "hatch" in the new flooring. Yachts commonly have access through their decking and there are some cool flush fittings in stainless steel you could use, too.
Craig
My feelings also, very impressive approach.
Dick's experience indicates to me that doing this from underneath the floor is indeed essentially impossible. Thanks Dick for coming up with a practical & viable solution.
Dick, if I understand you correctly you placed the new hose on the wrong fitting at the tank? It that is the case just switch the hoses at the tank fittings.
Grover Dickerson
98 U270 34'
2007 Toyota Corolla
2007 Suzuki Burgman 650
That job is almost complete. Still need to reinstall the 2 pvc vent tubes from the front wheel well to battery compartment and then the tank fiberglass covers.
The generator runs great again. Used 14 1/2' of 3/8" hose for the feed.
What stopped us for a few minutes was when we blew into the return vent, we heard bubbles and then the same when we blew into the feed. At that point we figured that we had the correct fitting.
Will replace the return another day. That will be a easier fix. Too much on our plate right now.
Attached are a few pictures of filling in the "hole" The top 1/8" aluminum is temporary until we replace the carpet next year.
Now turning our attention to installing the Splendide washer/dryer. It passed it's first test by running through several cycles while sitting in the garage.
I forgot one picture.
Dick: I replaced all of my fuel lines to the generator and engine. My lines were leaking were they leave the generator box and were they leave the bay area in front of the rear end. It took 3 days to complete the job. Once you use all the fuel there is a drain plug under the tank drivers side. I had to remove the right side compartment door and front molding so I could remove the fuel tank. It is very tight sliding the tank out. You are right on mine the generator lines were on the top driver side of the tank, and the pressure and return lines to the engine in the center and passenger side. I replaced all of my lines with Stainless braided Teflon lined hoses, because they are adding ethanol to the diesel fuel which deteriorates the rubber hoses. Gary
Nice job! Do you have a part number for the SS/Teflon fuel line? Also, how many feet did you use and how much per foot?
Thanks!
Don
Ethanol to diesel fuel? Did I read this correctly?
Of course there is no ethanol in diesel fuel.
I read the whole posting, great job and much easier than removing the tank
I actually learned a better way of cutting the hole and plugging it back
But i have three questions if some one can answer
1- why a round hole was cut and not square, Any reason?
2- Dick says he cut the aluminum/ fiberglass with Die grinder, ( looks like the hole in this layer was cut smaller, smart )
A-how thick is that layer
B- could grinder damage stuff ( hoses, wires ) underneath?
C- wouldn't have fire danger by sparks or created heat?
3- picture shows the Aluminum/ Fiberglass piece was glued back in place
How that can be done ? The piece which was cut out is the same size of the hole , how can be held in place and what kind of glue can work used on the edge
How about if a 1/4" aluminum was cut round (instead of the removed cut out piece) ,to the size of sandwich plug and dropped in the hole
using caulking on its edges , then drop the sandwich piece ( built to needed thickness) and secure it in place with square 1/8" aluminum plate
Hope i was able to explain my question
Edmond