I use the application technique taught me by David Flanagan's guys. I keep a cotton cloth in a ziplock bag. I spray the cloth rather than the wood. I apply it to the wood, let it set, then wipe it off with a clean cloth. The application cloth gradually becomes saturated with the Wood Doctor, greatly reducing the amount of additional product needed.
Good tip. Thanks for sharing!
see ya
ken
How many cans would you need to do an entire coach? ;D Seems to be mostly cases of 12 for sale.
I have several areas which were water stained over the years before the window seals were replaced. Will it really hide the discoloration? Doesn't seem to be too many places selling this stuff (Axela Medical Supplies???).
Thanks for any info you can offer.
Steve
We've had the same can for several years. I don't know whether it would treat severe discoloration. It has corrected our window discoloration. Why not order a can from FT?
Thanks Brett. Fixing to place an order for some other items soon. I'll get a can and see what happens.
Steve
Home Depot carries it.
Thanks Dave. :) I'll check it out.
Steve
Dave Flanagan and his crew worked on some areas in my '95, removing the last evidence of some stubborn Velcro that a previous owner had used on the wood paneling. Wood Dr., superfine steel wool, Wood Dr., repeat gently as necessary. I had removed all of the adhesive, but there was a shadow on the wood wall that annoyed me ... not discoloration, just a different "look". With patience, it all but disappeared. I have used the Wood Dr. to cure water stains around windows and on window sills in my '93, also. There, I used Wood Dr. with some Old English Scratch cover in the dark brown color and kept feeding the wood until it was looking the right color. Then I applied a bee's wax product and buffed it in with superfine steel wool to help seal in the oils in the Wood Dr. With time, it was almost unnoticeable. I LOVE the Wood Dr.!! A can of that and a can of CorrosionX and I am a happy girl.
Thanks Carol. :)
Have a roll of synthetic 0000 steel wool and a bottle of Old English on hand already. I'll try the Wood Doctor and see what results. Planning to go over the entire coach to rejuvenate/repair the finish (lots of scratches and wear marks over the years). The only things it appears I'll need to sand down and refinish completely are the entry door grab bar and entryway hand rail.
One day, this coach will be done. ;D
Steve
I was digging around to see what was in Wood Doctor and found the MSDS.
http://www.rpi.co.th/web2008/msds/wood%20doctor.pdf (http://www.rpi.co.th/web2008/msds/wood%20doctor.pdf)
Looks like a mixture of non-drying hydrocarbons (i.e., mineral oil) that will leave a sheen on wood and will certainly clean away greasy dirt (like dissolves like). Not sure what else it would do.
It also contains some limonene which gives it the nice lemon smell.
Great detective work Mr. Hatfield. I personaly use straight lemon oil, Homer Formby or whichever I can find. It is a cleaner and naturaly oils the wood w/o petroleum distillates.
Carol,
So that's why the coach looks new inside!
Keith
Just like caring for a cutting board!! Never thought of that.
We, too, were fans of Wood Doctor. However, I did not like to spray it on the walls or cabinets and have the over spray drift down to the carpet or other flooring surfaces. So I would put my cloth inside of a plastic grocery bag and spray a liberal amount onto the cloth itself and then apply firmly in circles and then in straight lines to the wood. I would buff with a piece of cotton T-shirt. Great results as you all know.
I have some slight water discoloration on the bathroom and kitchen cabinets near the sink. Just looks like the former owners allowed things to splash over and never wiped the water up. Anyway, I'm open to trying Zep's Wood Doctor but was also interested in folks have ever tried this stuff?
Shop WATCO Pint Watco Danish Oil Dark Walnut at Lowes.com (http://www.lowes.com/pd_86737-90-000000000000065851_0__?productId=3153403&Ntt=walnut+wood&pl=1¤tURL=%2Fpl__0__s%3FNtt%3Dwalnut%2Bwood%26page%3D2&facetInfo=)
Seems they have flavors for medium walnut and dark walnut. Not sure if I would call our Walnut medium or dark?
Well, I did some additional research and it seems there are several products that have been used with success. The issue I'm seeing on some of my wood looks to be water stains on some cabinets and there is also a few places where it looks like something may rubbed against a wall or cabinet for an extended period of time and worn off some of the finish. I've attached two pics that may give you a good idea of what I'm referring to. Will Zep's Wood Doctor actually improve this or am I better off using something like Watco, Old English Scratch Cover, or Restorz-it that actually have some color added?
Benjie,
Prior to the newest coaches (probably anything 2006 and older), FT simply used Sherwin Williams sanding sealer as the "finish" on the wood. You might try a light coat on the worn area.
(on the newer coaches I'm not sure what they use(d) - in many cases it appears thicker and glossier)
Michelle
I've used Deft semi-gloss on the natural oak finish in the U270 and it is a perfect match to the OEM finish.
I was told by the cabinet shop at FT that shellac was used on nearly all but the latest generation coach cabinet-work. I asked as I was adding several new walnut pieces up-front as part of installing our upgraded LCD television and obviously wanted the new wood to match. I applied two rubbed-coats of tinted amber shellac (Zinsser brand with a little pure-red tint to match the original walnut). Have not heard of sanding-sealer being used, particularly as a final finish?
David Flanagan and Larry are the ones who told us about it. Looks like someone else had confirmed it a while back, too:
Adding Custom desk (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=13418.msg74039#msg74039)
Yup...You'd be amazed at what a couple of coats of sanding sealer does after steel wool and paste wax is applied.