Okay, picked up Forrest from the Michelin Tire Dealer here in Cincinnati. They finally found & replaced two studs on the driver side dually, left me with three spares (@ $20 each I thought it prudent. They paid $17 to the distributor.) Charged one hour at $50...do you belive that? And, no charge for the leak repair...new valve stem assembly. Total was $165.02
Here's the part & number...
Did you go immediately go and by Lottery tickets after that? What a deal!
I have to admit that the manager is a bonafide real nice man. I could actually reason with him. There was negotiation involved. He dropped the $35 charge for the valve stem repair. And, I know for a fact that the crew spent at least two hours on the repair. Heck, just torching out to heat the broken stud took 1/2 hour. It was the one right next to the disk brake caliper...hard to get room to work...Murphy's Law again.
This had better have been $165 plus a six-pack or two, or a protest is in order!
oldMattB
I agree, although I did not have the six packs handy, otherwise I would have gladly given them up.
Here's a link to locate these Studs cheaper than I had to pay:
E-11723-L-EUCLID-Wheel Stud (http://www.finditparts.com/t/225/manufacturer/euclid/products/270862/euclid-e-11723-l)
post edit: I just realized their minimum order is 6 boxes of 5 studs each...I ended up paying for one box $100 + $6.50 sales tax
Peter, I just have to ask, WHY would you need new wheel studs??, they should last the life of the running gear unless they get cross threaded or stripped, just a guess ?
The one stud was frozen (holding the inside dual) and was sheared-off by the air wrench. I have to admit that the tech seemed inexperienced. He did apply some rust remover and waited about 5 minutes to try again. No patience however. He just kept increasing the torque until the stud sheared-off. When one brakes the rule of thumb is to replace at least another stud while you're at it...at least so I was told by the service manager.
I have one that either the nut or stud has to be replaced. Nut galled on reinstall.
A while ago two studs broke and Foretravel used a homemade tool that pushes against the brake rotor to remove stud.
Since our break, we put anti-seize on all stud's threads to prevent galling allow easier removal. I know it confuses torque wrenching, if one can find a dealer that uses one.
I can't be sure as to which method is more acceptable. Dry torquing the nuts to the studs can cause the galling of these components over time which can cause the two to "weld" together as mine did.
If lubricants are added to the torquing equation, the torque values are revised to a higher value. Again, I don't see many of these places use a torque wrench any more. So, does one re-torque more frequently if a lubricant is added? Will the nut loosen over time with lubricant added?
Hi Peter,
We all need a day like that! And thanks for the new stud info.
Raymond