My tired old 6V92 (170,000 miles) doesn't like the cold at all. We where at Tiger Run north of Breckenridge, CO last week with 15° weather overnight. I had the engine heater on all night but still had a lot of trouble getting it started. Used the boost switch and engine turned over rapidly but only got white smoke out the tail pipe and no ignition. Cranked for 20 to 30 seconds (I've read not to hold the start switch on for more then 30 seconds) on each try waiting a minute or so between attempts. I could hear maybe one cylinder starting but when I let go of the start switch it just died.
I put an electric heater directly under the oil pan and left it on for a couple of hours. The sun came up and the temperature came up a couple of degrees during that time. I was able to start after a few tries. I did hold the start switch on for more than 30 seconds once I heard a couple of cylinders start to fire. Was worried I was going to be stuck for the winter. Not that that would have been too bad of a thing. Tiger Run is a nice park but being right down the street from Breckenridge ski resort the rate skyrockets during the ski season!
I just had the block heater replaced this summer and when I feel the pipe above the heater it's pretty warm. I'm wondering if it's location could be the problem. It's high on the engine and convection would feed the hot antifreeze into the top of the radiator instead of circulating through the engine. See photo.
Anyone else out there with a 6V92 have any advice? Is your block heater in same location as mine? Should I buy some ether? ( for me not the engine! )
see ya
ken
All the block heaters I've seen on the silver 92s were on the bottom right side of the block (heat rises, even if it is water). But I have never seen a silver 92 in a coach before, so I don't know if that makes any difference or not. We used ether if the block heater was bad. That got us started and to the shop to get a new block heater installed. Temps were well below your 15 degrees.
8V-92 DDC has a great port for block heater and its simple, on top of oil cooler the line to the block has a threaded plug, there is a 1500 W heater that screws into this thread, works great, much better than just heating one thermostat housing as in pix.
I just had my engine block heater replaced at the Detroit shop here in OKC. The said they had never seen a block heater in the thermostat area of a 6V92 before. It would normally be installed right behind the alternator. The placement of the alternator is why it was moved up to the thermostat area. Convection may be an issue with your starting problems but I'm betting it is more a combination of the cold temps and the altitude. When we were in Angle Fire, altitude 8000 feet, I tried to start U300 at about 28 degrees and it smoked enough to kill all of the skeeters in New Mexico. It kept spewing white smoke all the way out of the campground and a mile down the road, then the smoke went away. My block heater was broken at the time. As soon as I got back to a reasonable altitude, it started and ran perfectly.
The guys at Detroit and Wayne in the shop at Foretravel said when cold the 6V92's will start on two cylinders and the other cylinders will kick in as the engine warms up. The white smoke is normal under cold start and or high altitude conditions. It is my understanding that the DDEC senses the low temps and adjusts the starting sequence accordingly to handle the extra strain of the environmental conditions. The smoke may be embarrassing but it is apparently normal.
Kent, White smoke, Yes normal, but not needed, a 1500 heater in the tube between ol cooler and block will do a very fine job of heating the engine, and they are simple and cheap, or a win-win.
Tell me more!!! However, I'm not sure even that will help at high altitude.
Kent, First make certain your engine has the 3/4" pipe plug in the oil cooler housing neck, it is a vertical casting connecting the oil cooler to the block, behind and below the water pump. This 3/4" pipe plug needs to be removed and the Kim Hot Start DD8L-101 heater inserted, it is a 1000 Watt 120 Volt block heater, List price is $103.40
These work great, used these on both the 8V-71 & 8V-92 DDC engines with good results.
Unknown how difficult it is to get access to that area on your engine on the U300.
It is a simple job, no need to drain coolant, just remove the pipe plug and insert the heater quickly, you will loose less than a pint of antifreeze.
This makes for a sanifary and great heater location.
I buy heaters from Kim Hot Start by the case, just not this part number.
A drawing is attached of this heater.
Dave: Thanks for the info. I'll be checking this out. Now if I can just find the oil cooler... :)
Kent: I'm sure altitude is an issue (Tiger Run is a 9000') but I've had good luck starting all summer running about Colorado at similar altitudes. Anything above 30° with the block heater = starting easily albeit with smoking out my neighbors for several minutes. I've started apologizing to my neighbors the night before we take off. :)
I need to be able to start in pretty cold conditions since Dori likes the snow and I like to ski. On a clear night in the mountains -20° is not unusual. If I can't get this resolved we will just have to head south for the winter! The sacrifices we make for the RV lifestyle.
see ya
ken
Dave,
Thanks for the oil cooler tip. Wonder if the hard starting is a result of lower compression ratio on the TA compared to 19 to 1 on the non-turbo engines? My old bus with an mechanical 8V-71 started well in all temps. I have the same problem that everyone above has. Even in the teens, the engine spins at almost idle speed on the starter. I usually get four cylinders to fire after a few seconds. After another few seconds, the fifth cylinder fires and sometimes like in Yellowstone at 13 degrees, the last cylinder takes two or three minutes to start firing. All this time, I have clouds of foul smelling white smoke behind me. As soon as I can move it, I try to get out of the campground ahead of the rocks thrown by the tent campers.
Would just throw in a new set of injectors if they were the same price as the mechanical engines (about $50/each). You can buy a used 6V-92TA engine for the cost of the electronic injectors. Going to pull my offending injector and see what cleaning it does.
Since we live in the mountains and most of our camping is at high elevation, I made up a propane burner to stick under the engine. Going to put snaps around the engine door and then put a cover on to trap the heat in from the propane burner. Will let everyone know how it works since we all seem to have the same problem in cold weather winter starts.
Hi Pierce, First, I am only experienced on the mechanical DDC engines, not the DDEC versions, however, I firmly believe the heater in the oil cooler neck does wonders as it heats from a low position allowing the heat to go upwards, unlike that one in the thermostat housing, that has to be a joke I think. The other versions of acceptable heater setups would be the unit bolted in on the right side (as you look at the rear or coach) under the exhaust manifold there is a square plate w/4 cap screws, remove the plate and insert the heater for that slot, why I prefer the screw in model on oil cooler neck, the other would be the tank type, but they are a pain, lots of hose and possible leaks.
I used the oil cooler neck version on all my toys, 8V-71, 12V-71 and 8V-92 with great results.
Slow starting on the 92 series as you describe would lead me into the valve adjustment as I have no clue to the electronic injector setup, adjustment if any. I have avoided the DDEC like the plague.
Dave,
Think you hit it on the head as using the block heater for an hour did nothing for starting. The low position would let the heat travel up as you said. Would be nice to have a couple of heaters otherwise most of the 10Ks is going to waste in the morning. Will take a look at the oil cooler/exchanger and post photos if it has the 3/4" plug.
Think I will adjust the valves this week. What was that intake valve setting again? ;D.
Thanks again Dave
Pierce
If my mind has not gone too far, it should be .015 on valves, I have the DDC took rack kit and use the go/nogo gauge think it is a .015/.016.
Dave, thanks for the info. That drawing looks just like the heater they just installed and unless I misunderstand the location, it sounds like the same installation. The type of heater that uses the 4 bolt plate goes on the right side of the engine but you cant use it on my coach because the alternator is in the way.
Ken, we will be looking for you in Southern Arizona. Quartszite is in late January.
Kent,
10 seconds after reading Dave's tip on the block heater, I did a search on Ebay and found a new 92 series 1500 watt block heater for the 3/4" pipe thread into the oil cooler. $35 new delivered. I think other block heaters may be exactly the same, in fact, using the Detroit Diesel part number, I found it listed for a CAT also. I am going to install it as soon as it arrives from Salt Lake City and will take photos and give a review as it is below freezing at night here now. How about you do the same? Snow forecast this weekend so it should get a good test.
Yes, the alternator blocks the other possibility. I did see a couple of plugs in the head that might work also but probably would need a shorter, lower wattage unit. 1500 watts should heat enough for a start in 30 to 45 minutes depending.
Also going to set valves at the same time. Excellent PDF at: http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CCcQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fww2.justanswer.com%2Fuploads%2FJCTech012%2F2011-01-06_205248_v92_topset.pdf&ei=DYDETsLLLrCOigK8kpHcBQ&usg=AFQjCNG_GL_1DZoWCxujElWvg_ocdr97eQ&sig2=VclvE_2WR8m3-ctdYVp_GQ (http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CCcQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fww2.justanswer.com%2Fuploads%2FJCTech012%2F2011-01-06_205248_v92_topset.pdf&ei=DYDETsLLLrCOigK8kpHcBQ&usg=AFQjCNG_GL_1DZoWCxujElWvg_ocdr97eQ&sig2=VclvE_2WR8m3-ctdYVp_GQ)
Has photos and explains it really well on just one page. Will post what my clearances are.
Planning on Quartzsite in January.
Pierce: What part number did you use to search ebay? I tried the DD8L-101 from Dave's pdf and it turned up a 1000W not 1500W. $35 looks like a very good deal indeed!
Kent & Pierce: Don't think I'll be at Quartszite this winter at least our plans don't include that yet but you never know especially if January is particularly bad...
see ya
ken
That reminds me of when my father-in-law left upstate NY for good. It was the blizzard of 1977 and he was suppose to leave with a load for Florida. It was like 20 below and the Cummins Formula 290 would not start. He tried everything, but no go. He went to a local department store and brought a aluminum snow "flying saucer". It is a round dish that you ride down a hill on snow. He also got some charcoal and starter fluid. He put the whole bag of charcoal in the "flying saucer" and soaked it with the starter fluid and lit it. Once it the flames died of and the coals were good and hot he slide it under the International's engine and went back into the house. Half a hour later he went back out and started it right up. He left with his load for Ft. Pierce, Florida and never can back in the winter time. Signed the house over to his youngest daughter. He died in Ft. Pierce.
Ken,
Here is the page on ebay: Detroit block heater 3307672 | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Detroit-block-heater-3307672-/300612812851?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item45fdeb8033)
Let me know if the page loads as it may not after I bought it but the part number is 3307672. Several companies make heaters like this. Here it is with the same part number but will also fit CATs. 1500 watts listed in specs. See at: Block Heater #3307672 Caterillar 3117 on eBid United States (http://us.ebid.net/for-sale/block-heater-3307672-caterillar-3117-36636663.htm)
They all look the same with 3/4" pipe fitting and about a 6" element. Can't imagine much of a difference but will measure when mine arrives.
Pat,
Have read about truckers keeping a bag of charcoal and a hubcap in a bin. That was my idea with the small propane burner with a hose to the regulator on a 5 gal propane tank.
Pierce
Thanks Pierce. I'll keep an eye out on ebay. I'll also keep an eye out for a hubcap on the side of the road!
see ya
ken
Think I was in upstate New York in 1977. Had picked up a WW horse trailer and was headed through Buffalo, NY on the way to PA to fill the trailer with antiques. Started snowing and I just kept ahead of it. Snow did not stop in Buffalo for months and totaled 17 feet. Pulled it with my MB 220D. Last snow storm was in Texas on that trip and I dropped snow off the car/trailer into California. Bad winter.
The valve adjusting info for the Detroit 92 series is at: http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/JCTech012/2011-01-06_205248_v92_topset.pdf (http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/JCTech012/2011-01-06_205248_v92_topset.pdf) One tight exhaust valve could keep a cylinder from firing until it starts making contact with the valve seat.
Adjustment should be very easy except for the contortions you have to go through to get to the valve covers.
UPDATE!!!
This morning it was 25 degrees. At that temperature it used to take 3 to 5 minutes of coaxing to get my 6V92 running with no block heater. As I mentioned I had a new block heater installed at the Detroit shop recently and just tested it this morning. I turned on the block heater last night and at 6:00 AM this morning I pressed the fuel pedal down 1/3 and turned the key. It started immediately and was running on all 6 cylinders and idling perfectly within 10 seconds.
This was a 1500 watt heather supplied by United Engines the local Detroit shop. I is located on the drivers side of the engine below the thermostat housing. It mounts on the left side right above the words Block Heater.
Kent, Great picture, I am saddened to see it located in the thermostat housing, it is cooking the thermostat.
IF they had installed it in the oil cooler nect, that is about 10" below that thermostat housing, it would better heat the entire water jacket, not just the top of engine. Maybe there is no 3/4 pipe plug in that nexk. ? It surely is a little more difficult to get into, but the RIGHT place.
I am not surprised the engine started nicely this morning. I fear sooner or later you will need the thermostat in that housing as it is getting cooked.
FWIW
Pierce, Gotta tell you that the suggested +/- .004 range for the .016 valve clearence gave me a chuckle, maybe that was a mis print, God I hope it was. Other wise between .012 and .020 would be great, wonder why they spec .016 then ? With those numbers it is no wonder why some engines run great and some just run so-so.
Another reason I laugh so much, life if funny sometimes ;D :P ;D
Question: As we all know that heat will cause these valve clearances to get smaller, would you opt to set the valve clearance at the higher end (.020) so as to ensure complete valve closure? Or, is .012 good enough to ensure all valves close all the way all the time?
.016 valve gap and if you want to get real picky, do not forget to check and set the bridge clearence too. All at normal operating temp. :o
Dave, I don't think my 6V92 has that 3/4" fitting under the thermostat housing. I guess it might there but I still can't bend and twist to get a real good look at that part of the engine.
Peter, I'm no diesel expert but I played with a lot of two stroke motorcycle engines. I may be wrong but I don't think my Detroit has valves does it? Are you trying to punk me like the guy in high school that told me there was a very good job available at the diesel truck shop changing spark plugs and muffler bearings in the diesel truck engines.
Kent, Normally I would agree, however you bet, these Detroit Diesels sure do have exhaust valves, not intake valves, they have ports in the cylinder walls, when the piston drops below the ports the supercharger has pressure that blows air into the cylinder while the exhaust valves are open, then on the up stroke the valves close and before the piston closes off the ports, air pressure fills the cylinder, then the piston comes up and your back into the ole squeeze bang thing.
Your engine has 4 exhaust valves per cylinder. even my ole 12V had 48 exhaust valves, 4 per cylinder. Maybe I or Pierce can find a good pix of how they work and post it here for you 2 stroke guys.
Some pix of cylinder and head for DDC 2 stroker
I'm sure glad Dave M. answered that one... :facepalm:
I'd love to see the jake design for no exhaust valves...
I will get off this subject after I mention the heater in the thermostat housing on Kents engine is sending most of the heat energy into the radiator, as it opens the thermostat and then the hot water goes to the radiator :o
Looks like I'll have to update my signature to
6V-92TA DDEC Parlor Coach 350HP Series 92 24v
Dave: about that oil cooler 10" down from the thermostat. I've enclosed a pic of my engine from the lower drivers side. Is that box my oil cooler? If not any idea what that housing is? The green hose coming out goes to my transmission cooler. I was pretty surprised that it was water cooled. The second & third picture is the transmission cooler just in case anyone is interested.
Since the block heater is in the thermostat housing I assume it will cause the thermostat to open. Logic tells me that when I go to start the engine the water pump will send cold antifreeze from the radiator throughout the engine. Doesn't that put me one step forward and 2 back?
Kent: Glad to hear you had good luck with your block heater. Wish I could say the same. :(
Thought I'd add that my block heater is set up exactly like Kent's.
see ya
ken
Thanks Dave M for the photos, ain't that a thing of beauty.
Peter, shows what I know.
Dave H, I thought Detroit had used a hyper dynamic supersquizamater in lieu of exhaust valves. I'm pretty sure that's what the Allison Transmission Retarder design was based on.
Ken, you may have a problem with the heater. Mine started the second I turned the key. This afternoon with the block heater off and at 45 degrees it cranked for at least 15 seconds before catching.
Kent: The heater is working. When I touch the return hose to the radiator it's almost hot. It was just installed back in August.
see ya
ken
OK, finally got some action on my "intake valve" question. Wondered how long it would take but the PDF I posted was a good clue. The early Detroits had 2 exhaust valves per cylinder but as technology advanced, 4 exhaust valves were fitted. So, when you adjust valves, you are setting four per cylinder but easy as no engine rotation is necessary once the injector has been depressed. 4 valves per cylinder also means less weight so higher rpms are possible without valve float and having to resort to super strong valve springs that shorten lifter/cam life.
Here is a good read for 6V-92 fans from a marine engine forum: 6V92 engine questions (http://www.samsmarine.com/forums/showthread.php?1619-6V92-engine-questions)
These were and are a huge powerboat favorite as they are small and put out a lot of power. 624 HP @ 2600 rpm in some but a more reliable 535 to 550 HP in most installations. They use max power to get the boat up on a plane and then around 1900 to cruise. So you can see that they are loafing at 350 HP in our rigs. They seem to go through turbos every 800 hours or so but even at the 535 figure, the engines last a long time. I think the GV side radiator location/size limits the power to just about the 350 HP we have. With an additional nose radiator, a lot more power could be used. Boats don't have to worry about the heat. You can also see why there is not a big worry if an Allison accidentally downshifts and the engine overspeeds.
On the largest, most powerful internal combustion engines, a set of electric fans replace the supercharger but are turned off once the engine is running and the turbo is pumping air through the giant intake ports. 109,000 horsepower, over 50 percent efficiency and naturally... two cycles. Forgot to say, these are made for container ships and made in Finland. Here is a good site for specs and photos. They cost $8600 an hour in fuel!!! World’s Biggest Engine - Most Powerful Engine – Emma Maersk’s (http://ngureco.hubpages.com/hub/Worlds-Biggest-Engine-Most-Powerful-Engine-Emma-Maersks-170-Million-Investment-Worlds-Largest-Ship)
CAT now owns EMD a.k.a. (or other way around) Electro-Motive Diesel. They recently won the largest locomotive contract in history with Union Pacific Railroad. Here is a interesting link for 2 cycle fans to EMD: Electro Motive Diesel (http://www.emdiesels.com/emdweb/emd_index.jsp)
General Electric does 4 cycles and most east coast Amtrak engines are GE.
WOW over 600HP out of a little 6V92! That's amazing. Having to rebuild after 500 hours would kinda suck though. :)
I am rethinking how I go uphill. Previously I've keep the RPM between 1500 to 1700 or least tried to. I think I'll try going to 1900 or maybe even 2000 RPM. It makes sense that the extra air going through the engine would help it run a little cooler. The marine guys really drove home how important it is to not let the engine run hot. I'll be watching my temp gauge even closer now! Seems like everywhere I want to go there's a big hill in the way.
see ya
ken
Ken,
Yes, the marine forum gives a really good insight in what a Detroit likes and doesn't like. Excellent reading. What the forum didn't say was a lot of marine diesels don't have removable liners so they can easily become "throw away" engines with much of a failure.
After we bought ours, Gaylie had to get back to work so for the first couple of days, I ran at 2100 in 4th (about 82 mph) where I could get away with it. Have always driven Detroits like I stole them. Have to admit, the Allison does a good job of not letting you bog the engine by just shifting down into the next lower gear. Heading uphill, I like to keep it at 2000-2100 unless the temp gauge starts to move up and then I drop a gear. On long grades on scorching days, I have had to pull over to the slow lane and climb in second gear. Lower RPM fine if sightseeing with light load on the engine. Even with the DDEC, I will sometimes back off the throttle a little to reduce the black smoke if visible at high altitude.
Never let the engine "hunt" back and forth between 3rd and 4th. Just shift down, keep RPM up and relax until reaching top of the grade.
At 175K on your engine, It should be running fine. I have 440K orig miles on my MB 300SD and it starts instantly in any temp, uses no oil and is just as fast as new so your DD should be able to easily double the miles. Incidentally, an in frame overhaul kit with new liners, pistons, bearings, gaskets, etc is only about $2K for the 6V-92TA.
My rule of thumb on any HD diesel is to keep RPM up within 10% of max. anytime the engine is pulling hard. Lower RPM means less oil pressure, especially on an older engine and that means less oil sprayed up into the pistons to cool them plus the water pump circulates more water the faster it turns. Idle a Detroit to cool it down before shutting down if it has been pulling much but never otherwise for more than a couple of minutes. Low oil pressure at idle will not cool pistons and the crowns (top) will expand after 8 minutes or so possibly causing premature wear. The Greyhounds you hear idling have a fast idle switch that brings RPM up to 1000 where they have good oil pressure and can run there for hours.
Before trying a very cold start, use the hand primer pump for at least a minute before cranking engine. See if that makes a difference.
Pierce,
Thanks for the info & advice. Especially on idling. I have let the engine idle for extended times when stopping for lunch, filling up, restroom breaks, etc. My thinking I was saving the starter by not having to use it as much at the expense of a little fuel. Looks like it's probably at the expense of a little fuel and the life of the engine! Penny wise pound foolish...
I posted some pics of the lower drivers side of my engine earlier. Is your set up the same way? That is with water cooled transmission? Do you know if the housing in the pic is the oil cooler?
see ya
ken
Ken,
Will take a look at mine when the weather clears. Love to look at snow but hate to have it here for long as it makes our driveway into an Olympic Ski Jump but with no runoff at the bottom, just a small ravine with a creek. (wish the smileys had a skull and crossbones).
Most cars with automatic transmissions have a heat exchanger in bottom of the radiator. The idea is to keep the higher transmission temps under control, especially when used in severe use applications that will produce more heat like towing a trailer, etc.
Foretravel has put a heat exchanger on the driver's side of the transmission where the engine coolant can help keep the transmission fluid below temperatures that would damage seals, etc. and shorten the life of the transmission. You probably have noticed how the transmission temp follows the engine temp pretty closely except when the torque converter is not locked up as in city driving using first and part of second gear or on steep hills in the low gears. In these cases, the fluid temperature climbs rapidly and you can see this reflected on the dash gauge. The heat exchanger just can't keep up with the heat generated by the transmission slippage in the torque converter. Also a reason I back up my driveway as it REALLY strained in first with the trans gauge heading up rapidly. (reverse ratio is over 6 to 1 so it will idle up most any slope)
See the excellent chart on transmission temperature vs. transmission life at: Transmission temperature/failure chart. (http://www.txchange.com/heatchrt.htm)
Any coach with a Detroit should have a VHS tape or DVD with all the do's and don'ts in it. Actually, all diesels should have the same as they all have their little quirks. Might be nice to have one explaining all the functions, switches, etc. in our coach. Like Kent, I just found out the steering wheel telescopes. The horn button looked pretty hefty so I gave it a twist and voila.
We phased in diesels after a long history of Hall-Scotts, Waukeshas and Macks. The factory sent along reps to put on seminars on the care and feeding of the 8V-71s. It was incredible to be able to hit the starter buttons (2) and have it running before you could get your finger off. Instant full power and off we went. I was instantly in love.
I have posted this site before but will include it as Tejas puts everything the factory had to say with millions of miles of over the road experience. Some good interactive photos of what can happen when you don't use Delo 100 SAE 40 but a 15-40 instead and what it does to pistons/liners, etc. Some of the material only applies to the older mechanical engines but enough to our DDEC engines to make it an important read.
Detroit Diesel 2 Cycle 2 Stroke Engine operating Oil Tips (http://www.tejascoach.com/tejasoil.html) A good read for anyone with a diesel RV as it has a lot of tire tips, general information.
Tejas passed away fairly recently but his son has taken over the business. I had a chance to talk to him for 30 minutes or so. If not busy, he is a wealth of information. Putting together a case for replacing the hydraulic 6 rib recommended belt with the proper 8 rib belt. He was in agreement and related a recent incident with a Newell Coach that lost it's hydraulic belt, overheated, somehow got oil on the turbo and caught the insulation above the turbo on fire. Owner put it out but is raising the bed several inches and installing fire resistive insulation above the turbo. Interesting.
Waiting for a call back from Gates Rubber about recommended belts and will post when I have it all together along with my 7 second hydraulic belt replacement procedure.
Thanks Pierce for another great link. Looks like I'll be doing an oil change here pretty soon. I just had it changed in August so I think I'll wait till this spring. I'll have to pull out the receipt but I'm pretty sure they used 10w-40. Hmmm... seems like the 40w oil would not help my cold weather starting unless I use the hub cap charcoal method. :) I may be in the market for one of those magnetic oil pan heaters I guess unless you come up with something with your new block heater.
see ya
ken
Another update on cold starts. This morning before leaving for Kansas City, I turned on the block heater for 45 minutes. It was 45 degrees outside so I didn't really think I needed the heater but I wanted to see how quickly it would start with just 45 minutes of heating. I had to crank the engine four times for about 10 seconds per try to get the engine to catch. I started with two cylinders and took about a minute to get all cylinders firing and idling smoothly. I now think one must leave the block heater on for several hours or overnight to get sufficient heat to make the engine start quickly. Keep in mind that the engine started immediately and idled smoothly at 25 degrees when the heater was on all night.
Dave M, I have given some thought to "cooking the thermostat" with the block heater. My Cummins 5.9 on my U225 also had the block heater right under the thermostat housing. I can't imagine that the block heater would be any harder on the thermostat than the heat from the engine and that both Cummins and Detroit would put the heater there if it would create problems. Also, thermostats are cheap and I hate that white smoke.
Yeah, the white smoke is really embarrassing. Seems like the people inside cut down old growth redwoods or kill spotted owls.
I did watch a Cummins logging truck with variable valve timing start up last week. Vertical stacks with massive smoke and huge smoke rings up to 50 feet every 30 seconds or so. Bad noises from under the hood for the first 5 minutes.
Will adjust my valves this weekend and post if they are tight. Thanks for the info. Won't plan on 45 minutes of generator doing the job.