Today is light day. Replaced several halogen. Lights in the bathroom above the sink. Discovered where the switch was for the bedroom cabinets. However I cannot get the lights in the closets to work. Or the pantry light to work. Checked the fuses at the foot of the bed. #3 appears to be good. Replaced the bulb in the cedar closet. No joy. The light under the sink works fine. Could there be a switch I am missing?
My older coach has switches on the lights themselves in the closets. That is in addition to the door switch of course. Allows the doors to be left open, but without either light on, but by choice.
My bedroom upper cabinet lights are switched by a under cabinet switch, but only work when the passenger side under cabinet light switch is on. Sort of a fail safe to avoid one leaving on the upper lights accidentally.
I do love the logic of the switches, where there are two next to each other, have learned which one will light the under cabinet lights and which the ceiling lights.
But I do need to figure out a nice way to sort of cover the bedroom generator start switch, as I too have touched it once by mistake.
"Discovered where the switch was for the bedroom cabinets". In my 2004 U320 I have lights under the the cabinets that shine on each night stand. I was thinking that they must be burnt out. But I also thought that there may be a hidden light switch. Where did you find your switch?
For our '03, it's one of the 4 switches in the overhead as you're laying in bed, near the built in digital clock.
Bedroom-Docking-Floor(bath/steps)-Genset rocker. "Bedroom" are those under cabinet lights.
I can never remember which switch is which in the dark, so we never use them without turning on the side sconces (switch on the lamp itself) first.
Michelle
We have exactly those 4 switches in the overhead in our '03. I've gotten a little braver about switching them on/off in the dark. I've only hit the genset rocker switch once accidentally! ::) As a rocker, it feels different from the curved switch right next to it - which is for the floor (bath/kitchen/steps) lights. So that's easy. ;) The other 2 switches are below (not in line) the genset/floor light switches. Since the docking light switch has an LED bulb above it (again, easy to tell by feel), I know that the switch next to it is for the under-cabinet lights over each nightstand.
BTW, I LOVE that docking light switch - we used it not long ago when we heard a rustling sound in the gravel next to the driver's window late one night. Turns out it was a "herd" of javelinas :o (well, 4 of them anyway), trying to get at our little garbage can (fortunately, the lid is bungee'd closed)... but the docking lights didn't bother the javelinas one bit, as they simply continued rooting around until we opened the window to shoo them away with mild obscenities! :))
The panel above my head when I'm sleeping has eight switches, the four you mentioned plus fwd and rear reading lights, and two more that I can't remember. None of those seemed to work. I will change out the bulbs this afternoon and give them all a flip again. I noticed in a picture of the bedroom from FOT (I'll try to add the photo) they appear to be on. Once again, I'm talking about the lights that light up the nightstands.
Geez! You have one o' them new fangled coaches with so many buttons you need a child to help you push them all. ;D
Welcome! Please add a signature block with some identification regarding you and your coach.
Thanks, I was planning on doing that, but I got stuck on add the picture to the signature. I have to run now but I'll try to get it done later today.
I am a newbie to the forum, have a 1996 u295 and love it. This is my 4th motorhome, and first foretravel. This is a little off subject but it is on lights (lighting). I have this burning desire to change all of my halongen fixtures to led bulbs. I did not know if anyone else has done this and would like to gain from someone's knowledge. My brother in law has recently purchased a new airstream and he was telling me all of his interior lights are led and he has gone for some time without starting the generator and it certainly makes sense to me. I have been looking on ebay and bought several leds with the G4 base to try in the very common gold ringed puck lights that I have in the coach. I haven't even received them yet but plan on using the trial and error method by buying several different types to see how I liked them. Thinking somebody else must have traveled this path.
I also have a technical question that may be obvious to everyone except me. I can not get the propane to come on anything. I did open the cut off valve at the propane tank which seemed rather basic. None the less the furnace nor the cooktop come on. I had not needed the gas to come on as usually we use the microwave to heat stuff and don't do a lot of cooking but it is November and would like the furnace to function. ;-). Thoughts would be appreciated.
Hi,
Here is my post from a couple of months ago: LED Interior Lights Conversion (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=13741.msg77339#msg77339) The LEDs work great. I just finished the overhead/ceiling lights and will post photos as I have time. I also ran a red LED strip down the middle of the ceiling lights so I would have night lighting while driving. Red strip works on all main salon ceiling lights with the switch close to the driver. The new warm white LEDs operate off the same switches as before.
John Haygarth did a nice LED conversion that is even easier than mine. Check out his post also.
PM with any questions.
Try resetting your detector next to the floor for propane. You have a different model than mine so I won't add more.
Pierce
Charles, On most FT's the propane alarm when activated will cut off the flow of propane at the tank. There is a solenoid in the line at the tank. Most of us have removed the pintle from the solenoid to disable It as it is a nuisance. Loosen the fitting at the propane tank to see if you have flow, then open another fitting downstream of the solenoid if no flow there the solenoid is closed. Be Careful and its a good idea to put out your cigar while doing this.
Also, after setting for long length's of time propane will settle in the lowest point and when Turning on an appliance it can take a while to refill the lines so you can light an appliance. Sometimes folks think that this is air in the line, it is not unless line has been opened to the atmosphere.
Good Luck
Gary B
Jerry and Coleen,
Had the same problem with the closet lights. Probably a bad switch like mine. Jump the exposed connectors or use a test light and you can see the problem. I am going to change the type of switch as they seem prone to failure.
Pierce
Gary and Pierce, Thanks to both of you!
I have done some poking around and it appears that I may have a faulty atwood protechtor? The light stays green and doesn't flash every 8 seconds after warming up. I used what you gave me, went online and found the atwood manual. It said that the propane detector (atwood protechtor) led should be constant green for several minutes and then go to flashing green if all is ok. Also it has a chirp that I initially could not locate but sure enough the atwood manual said and appears that is the cause of the chirp and also believe it to be the cause of the faulty propane flow. I have already ordered another one. I would assume that the propane detector is original to the coach. I also read on line that they should be replaced every 5-8 years. Well mine is probably 15 years old. I hope to get the new protechtor in the mail soon and will change it out and this may "fix" my propane issues. I did see the solonoid at the tank and I thank you for the thought of removal of the pin. I will start cracking the propane to see where the stoppage is if this doesn't fix the problem.
The one thing I think might be odd is the placement of the propane detector on my unit. It is NOT next to floor. I was crawling around looking for it and finally realized that it was just to the left of the refrigerator about eye level. I had seen it before but had not paid a lot of attention to it. I will keep you posted on my progress.
Are you sure that is not your CO detector.....
I don't think the propane detector would ever be located that high...it would never work until it was too late...as in "BOOM"!
On my 99 the propane detector was under the bathroom sink overhang close to the floor.
You guys were correct, that is my CO monitor that is higher up near the refrigerator. I am still searching for the propane detector. I will call foretravel today to see if they can provide any insight. I have crawled around twice and haven't found it yet. dang it!
Look in the bathroom under the kick plate of the sink. You might find it there or in the kitchen way down low.
Wow, found it finally. Just below the CO detector there were (x12) 1/4in holes that had been drilled into the wood cabinet panel. Behind that panel with the holes to allow the propane to enter was the detector. I was able to remove the panel to access. I took it out and disconnected the power wire and the chirp stopped. I am awaiting the replacement propane detector to restore. Thanks to all.
Yup. Owning a Foretravel is like a permanent Easter Egg Hunt. You're not sure you ever have found all there is to find. ;D
Here is a photo of the 12 1/4 inch holes in the panel. The propane detector was behind that and truly NOT visable. Beside the holes there was a door/cabinet that is no longer there. I could peek through a hole in the side of the opening of that cabinet. I just wanted to put this photo in as it was not an easy find. I think the cabinet there for the central vacuum hose? The central vac hook up is right beside the cabinet. Does anyone know what this cabinet is for? Thanks!
did not mean to post same photo twice
Hello and Thanks Gary,
Removed the pintle from the solenoid at the propane tank (had wires going to it) and that took care of my propane issue. I had to get a new propane detector and the new one from Atwood did not have the same solenoid for propane cut off wire. Just the positive and negative wires. Since it did not have the ability to restore the gas flow had to do something after replacing the defective propane detector. That removal of the pintle was the ticket. Took only a few minutes to remove (less than 30).