I still haven't taken possession of the new coach yet. I had negotiated all new tires on the rear. They shop they sent it to for tires in Austin (Youngbloods) pulled the tires and noticed the brake pads were gone and it was metal on metal. They're fixing, but I'm not sure how much experience they have with this kind of system. The first set of rotors they ordered were apparently wrong. Is there anything I need to make sure they're doing? I'd hate to have the brakes replaced only to find out 10K miles down the road they did it completely wrong or jacked something up.
Better have them check the front brakes too... those get even more wear than the rear brakes so they're likely just as badly gone... or worse! :(
Craig
I checked them as I thought the same thing. They look to be recently replaced!
Best Regards,
Benjie
Benjie Zeller
(512) 587-4628
Well, the understanding that there's a special clay-based lube required is something to quiz them on - you don't want them lubing the braking system with the wrong stuff.
Brake part numbers (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=14279.msg82463#msg82463)
Jerry's also in Austin so he might know Youngblood's skill set.
Michelle
There are about 15 diffrent part Meritor part numbers for the rotors the number I got (from MOT) is Meritor # 3218K167 both sides take the same rotor as well as the front.
Emailed the service manager the Meritor maintenance link off Barry's site. I tried to make it clear I'm not telling them how to do their job, but also explained I'd rather not be there in a few months making a case that they're ignorance led to additional issues. Worded much nicer, but essentially the message.
Benjie,
For sure you don't want to aggravate (read that pi**-off) the service guys. It's like getting on a waiter's bad side...you just never know what you're going to be eating...if ya know what I mean... :(
Agreed! I had called him as well and tried to encourage them as much as possible as I didn't want just the email message to be interpreted in any way. I think I'm good on that end. Still not convinced they're going to follow through, but I plan to ask once the work is done.
Benjie,
You can down load the brake maintenance manual at WWW.meritorhvs.com (http://WWW.meritorhvs.com)
At the bottom of the page under literature you can search MM#4*
I think that is how i did it. Interesting reading on the slack adjuster and how the brake works and how to lubricate the brakes.
JD
Benjie
don't be too critical of the repair shop, one of the problems when repairing the MH or a big truck is having the part that needs to be changed in your hand and comparing it to that very same new part on the counter before leaving the parts house. There are so many different part numbers and the manufacturer will sometimes through the years change numbers.
When the parts house has to order the part you would be surprised how many times the box has the correct number on it but what was inside wasn't the correct part. I ordered hubs recently for our 18 wheeler trailer and it took 3 tries to get the right parts in.
As with anything being repaired take the service manager for a test ride after the repairs, as a good mechanic will also do.
Oh and if it was metal to metal, did it have any serious discoloration or cracks in the rotor? It would need to be replaced if so.
Was not an encouraging view when I went to look at my new baby! I didn't know you had to pull so much apart to change the rotors?
Benjie,
Have you give any thought to changing the rear end grease to synthetic while you are this deep into the axle? When we went with synthetic in rear end and front spindles it improved our MPG. There are others on this forum that have had similar results. Now would be a good time and will give you a baseline as to when the grease was changed.
Pamela & Mike
The answer is "I hope so!" So, I haven't exactly closed on this coach yet. We've arrived at an agreed price, however, I negotiated some pre-delivery work that was supposed to be done. Part of that work was new tires on the rear (the fronts were basically brand new). They shipped the unit off to Youngbloods in Round Rock to have the tires done over a week ago. When Youngbloods pulled the tires they noticed the pads were completely gone and it was metal on metal. I'm assuming the RV dealer told them to replace the brakes and rotors on their dime because they never called me to ask what I wanted done or tried to reneg the price. The only reason I even know they are doing the brakes is I've dropped by Youngbloods almost every day to check their progress. It wasn't until yesterday that they even got a chance to pull everything apart. Anyway, I asked them what they were planning to do about the axle oil. Their response led me to believe they were just going to add some oil and be done. I asked them to just drain and refill since they'd lost so much anyway and I'd prefer they not mix new with old. They agreed, however, since I don't actually take possession of the coach until Tuesday and I'm not paying for the work I get the impression that my opinion carries little weight with them. I'm sort of in a Catch 22 since I want the work done right, yet I get the feeling I'm looking a gift horse in the mouth.
I also have all Amsoil synthetics and filters sitting in my garage waiting for the day I take possession to change every fluid on the thing (I really hope I didn't jump the gun and buy all of this only to have something go bad with the deal)! Bottom line, I'm hoping they changed the differential so I don't have to, but I'm not counting on it. I'll ask for the list of maintenance done when I take possession on Tuesday and from there decide if I'm going to change again or leave it be until the next scheduled maintenance.
<><<><<><<><<>< benjie.zeller@gmail.com
512-587-4628
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Benjie,
Not knowing the quality of work at that tire shop as to doing brake, rotor, bearings and reassemble in the CORRECT manor, I would just let them do what ever they do to get it out of there. Providing it is driveable, get it to your location, then do the oil, lube and filter changes you wish.
Now comes the biggie in my eyes, I would jack each wheel off the ground and feel the rolling drag and bearing free play. In my case I removed all wheels one at a time, removed brake pads, and then checked the bearing free play and smoothness, replace and/or adjust to spec, reassemble brakes and remount the wheel, then the next one. It gives a much better "Warm Fuzzy feeling" to the overall health of the coach.
If you do not have the experience nor tooling for such, find a shop that has a GREAT reputation for proper mechanical work, not the cheapest shop, good money spent here is a big savings over having issues on the road 2,000 miles from the home area. Also wheel bearings done correctly with synthetic oil will go over half a million miles routinely.
Cheers
Benjie,
To get as far as the photos show only takes a few minutes. You can see that there are just a few nuts and bolts on the ground. The big thing is like Dave said, checking the bearings and adjusting them. This is not something you should tackle yourself. Some $$ spent for a shop with a GREAT reputation can save a LOT more $$ for a failure on the road. Done correctly, the wheel bearings will outlast several owners. If you think this is tough, preloading/adjusting the bearings on the pinion and the correct position for the ring gear really takes a pro.
I had a friend who worked for GM Canada. He could look at a ring & pinon, feel the bearings and figure the preload whether they were new or used, brush lead on and move the ring gear so the contact area was just perfect, assemble it and they never made any noise. All in several minutes. This is the kind of guy/shop you are looking for. Not a skill you acquire overnight.
Pierce
Anyone have a suggestion for an Austin shop?
Best Regards,
Benjie
Benjie Zeller
(512) 587-4628
WRT the bearings, anyone know if they're greased or lubed by the differential?
They are lubed by the rear axle oil, although the hub should be filled before the outside Bering is installed. Once every thing is installed check the rear axle for correct oil level. I'm going to do the same job this weekend, it's not real complicated just every thing is real tight and HEAVEY.