Can someone tell me where the gray and black waste tank level sensors are located and how hard it is to access them?
Thanks in advance.
See below. This is where mine are. But we had them replaced in 2010 and so they might not be that way on your coach. These sensors have worked very well. I'm assuming they measure the pressure in the tank.
Note that I took this pic while they (FOT) were replacing one of the valves so the pull cable is not connected as it would normally be.
George
Here is where my fresh water sensor is located.
That is an interesting setup... Did they hook up to your original monitoring panel, or is that a newer separate system? Any pics of the monitoring setup?
Don
Very good, indeed. Now that I know what to look for.
Thanks ever-so-much.
The new sensors connected to the original monitor.... see below. The display may be different from the original, but the hardware is the same. We rarely use the backup camera (same monitor) and only turn this on when we want to check the tanks. Hopefully this will extend the life of the monitor.
One of my biggest pet peeves is when the tank sensors don't work. Mine don't. On this coach nor did they work on my SOB. If I'm ever close to Texas I'm having See level sensors installed. SeeLeveL Gauges by Garnet Instruments Ltd. - RV Applications (http://www.rvgauge.com/rv.htm)
Steve, I have installed the SeeLevel system. It is very easy to do. You simply have to get access to the tanks by removing the white panel, rough up the vertical side of the tank and clean it with alcohol apply two of the self sticking sending tapes to each tank. The senders are 12" high and you will probably need two per tank.
The neat thing is that they use just one of the existing wires. The instructions will explain how that works, but it does work. You just disconnect the wire from the existing system under the dash and hook it to the SeeLevel LED display. It also does the 12V and the propane tank without running any new wiring.
Easy for you to say :) What side do I access my tanks from on my 2000 U320? I need to find my tanks. HA. I started to install these on my SOB, but chickened out and returned them. I'm in storage for awhile now so it may be a good time to try it anyway.
I wish I could be of help but I'm not well versed on the layout of those fancy, new, complicated machines like a U320. My guess is that access to the waste tanks is behind the wall where the dump pipe and the outside water faucet is located. It can be a little tricky removing that wall. Usually there is hardware and caulking at the edges that needs to be removed and bending the fiberglass panel. Accessing the tanks is the hardest part, that and finding a cool place for the LED readout.
The mechanical part takes some time but the electrical part isn't as difficult as one might think.
What side do I access my tanks from on my 2000 U320?
You need to get to the vertical side of the tanks. That will be the curb side on the U320. Remove the panel around the water manifold to get to the gray and black tanks and the paneling above the water pump (just forward of the manifold) to access the fresh water tank.
Has anyone figured a way to compensate for the funky shape of the fresh water tank when using the See Level gauges? An inch of water at the top of the tank represents a lot more volume than an inch of water near the bottom of the tank. If the sensors were flexible enough to be bent, we could apply some mathematics to the task and find out how to lay out the sensors.
Reliable relative levels would be better than the current readings from the OEM system. Accurate levels would been even better.
Dave, I always looked at it that I really only cared when the Fresh Water is approaching empty and when the dump tanks are getting full. Accuracy was never a real concern.
Thanks! Hmmmm... that's a lot of work :-* :-*
Steve:
It is not as daunting as you might think. If you do take the panel off, just be sure to take a photo or two as you disassemble it so that you know where all the pieces belong on re-assembly. Many of the screws are stripped (I didn't do it) so they are snarky to remove. Threads in the holding material are stripped, not the heads.
Just replaced all of my sensors yesterday. I envy George's setup/location--wished mine were that way.. The U270 is in 3 different locations, all next to their dump valve and/or water tank drain valve. I had remove the street side dump valve/electrical bay service cover completely to get to the grey tank (a PIA given its shape, disconnecting other water lines, etc), remove the curbside water valve cover to get the black tank and the fresh was pretty easy access next to the waterpump and accumulator. Got about 5 hours total in it so far.
Now, I'll check/calibrate all of them when I refill the system in the spring, plus check the water connections to insure no leaks before I button it all up.
Ahhh, I wish it was that easy. Mine is held on with one screw, which wasn't there. Wanted to pull the panel to have a look in there, but no joy. Could not see a way to get the panel out. However, I'm waiting on some new dump valves and seals (figured out an easy way to add a third dump valve to a U225), so maybe when all that comes out I stand a better chance.
Steve
Steve,
I have noticed that others have talked about adding the third dump valve. At the risk of showing my ignorance, what is the advantage of adding a third valve? Since I have all of our utility compartment plumbing fully exposed ATM, now would be a good time to find out!
Don
Search is your friend ;)
Grey and Black water valves (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=13023.0)
Keep in mind the installation/orientation of the 3rd valve and what it may do to the ability to get behind the utility bay wall in the future
Using newly added Valtera gate valve on sewer line (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=11225.msg58890#msg58890)
Michelle
I recommend that you search Foreforums for "third valve." Put it in quotes in the search box and you will find several discussions regarding the "third valve."
I added the third valve for the following reasons:
it provides an additional level of protection in case one of the primary valves fails or leaks
it provides a way the back flush the black tank with water from the grey tank
it allows combining the capacity of the waste tanks in case you a little more capacity before driving to the dump station
it was easy and cheap to do
it changed the output connection from a Thetford fitting to the more common Valterra fitting
Thanks J.D.,
I see, said the blind man... Now I get it. Using the grey tank to flush the black tank. I had also heard about that, but hadn't followed through to see how it is done. I thought maybe some sort of failsafe check valve was put in between the grey and the black tank that would let you direct grey water into the blackwater tank through the top of it somehow. I am still a complete newbie when it comes to actually using the RV for camping. Though I am rapidly gaining experience at the repair and renovation side of things. Sigh...
Don
You and me both, brother. ;D
Many people posted that their grey tanks filled long before the black tanks did. Not only does the third valve help flush, you can transfer water from the grey to the black. Buys you a little more time before finding a dump station.
There isn't a whole lot of room for a third valve on a U225. In fact, there's just enough room to add a valve to the end of the plumbing - but then you need a bayonet fitting to be able to attach a sewer hose. Then I found this --> Fit Valve Bayonet End (http://tweetys.com/fitvalvebayonetend.aspx) . Just what I needed to make it work. The cap/sewer hose will attach directlly to the dump end of the third valve.
I recently tossed out a bag of oddball fittings, couplings, and adapters, and numerous lengths of short mismatched hose I found scattered around the storage bays, and replaced all of that with this --> Amazon.com: Camco 39761 RhinoFLEX 15' RV Sewer Hose Kit with Swivel Fittings: (http://www.amazon.com/Camco-39761-RhinoFLEX-Swivel-Fittings/dp/B002OUMVWY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1324323839&sr=8-1) , along with the 5 ft extension hose. The 15 ft hose collapses down to just under 5 ft. I can now store that in the tank dump bay instead of trying to fit hoses into the tubes in last storage bay.
Wonder if my Sani Flush still works... I understand they are long gone and no parts are available. I'll find out soon as it warms up.
Steve
@Steve the Fit Valve worked great for me. I wouldn't have been able to "fit" the third valve otherwise.
@Don here are some before and after pics of my 3rd valve set up.
see ya
ken
BTW - Garnet Instruments, makers of the SeeLevel tank gage systems, are having a sale right now --> https://www.securewebexchange.com/rvgauge.com/sale.htm
Best prices I've seen anywhere. However, not all models are on sale. Wondering if I need a digital display, or if LEDS are close enough. As our tanks are not of a consistent shape, does it matter?
Steve