In the past I have always run the generator while driving because the house battery's are bad. I am going to replace them next Wednesday. after that i am hoping to be able to run the refrigerator with out using the generator. Any thoughts would be helpful.
Thank You
Merry X-Mas to All
fridge should run on propane if you have a non all electric coach. No issues and I have run mine for years on propane.
I am confused as to why you run the generator. It powers a (usually 45 amp.) battery charger while the alternator powers (usually 190 amps.) the house batteries. I routed a plug to run the fridge on inverter while driving. It also will run nicely on propane, but why pay when the inverter is free.
The reason I run the Gen is because the house battery's will not hold a charge. I am replacing them Wednesday.
Our refrigerator is Dometic. When I turn it on, it goes to "Auto" mode. If we are on shore power or generator, it runs on 120VAC electricity. Otherwise, it runs on propane. It switches automatically. It never runs from batteries. I think it requires 12VDC for the controls, but that is a relatively small power draw.
Is your refrigerator an absorption type, Dometic or Norcold? Has it been replaced with a household unit?
Hi Craig W,
What kind of batteries did you purchase. What did they cost?
Thanks,
Raymond
Most of the fridges out there run the displays/microprocessors off of the house batteries while on propane. Not too much of a draw but when you include the auto defrost and heated door gaskets, the load increases. With Dometics, you can switch the timer off but Norcolds require a little wire splicing to a switch. A couple of good sites from dry campers on how to disable the timers on Google.
Merry Christmas to everyone today.
Ok here is what I did, I ran out of time because we are leaving for Fla, 12-31-2011 I went with 4D flooded cells @ $136.00 each they are deep cycle i need 3 I will use until next year then I will purchase 8 D gels for $464.95 each. The Gel battery's I have now are 1997 originals they have served their time.
Craig, I think the misunderstanding is that when you are not hooked up to outside 110V electricity, you refrigerator should automatically change over to propane. RV refrigerators are designed to run on both 110V electricity and propane. Therefore, unless someone has installed a residential frige in coach, the quality of your batteries has little to do with the function of your refrigerator. It should automatically change over to propane whenever you are not hooked up to outside electricity or when you are running the generator. It will not be a big load on your 4D battery when running on propane. I ran my 93 U225 on a 4D lead acid battery many times with no problems.
Does this help answer your question?
Thanks Kent, The Fridg is a Dometic gas absorption unit. The inverter/Charger is a Heart interface 2000 I will need to change the dip switch settings for the wet cells .
All the absorption refrigerators I have seen and which you say you have require 12 vdc to operate the control board in the refrigerator. Without 12 vdc it will not work with either propane or 120 vac. The 12 vdc normally comes from the house battery/s. Even with dead batteries if something else (engine alternator, battery charger, etc) is supplying 12 vdc to the house battery the refrigerator should work as long as propane or 120 vac are also available. You did the right thing to replace the dead batteries. If you have an inverter/charger you should make sure that it is delivering the correct dc voltage to the batteries for charging. Flooded batteries and gel batteries require different voltages for proper charging and long battery life. The voltage is usually changed with small dip switches on the back of the inverter/charger control panel. Check the inverter/charger manual if that is what you have.