A friend just bought a FT and has asked for help. He does not have a metal storage shed and must for some time park the RV out in the weather. To keep the leaves and dust or sap from the coach, he would like to cover it with a fabric, made-for-mh, cover that supposedly will allow air transfer and not mildew. Does anyone have experience with this, is this a good idea or likely a problem? Any ideas of a good brand of cover? I understand PPL sells one and I will check Camping World for one. But is there a problem with this solution that we have not anticipated? Thanks, Mike
RV covers are notorious for the damage they can do to coaches if they're not custom made. Wind induced flapping can easily damage the finish. They can be a hassle to install and remove. We full-timers' coaches never see a roof.
Do you ever see any coaches with covers on them at Camping World or PPL?
Thanks for the idea. I think PPL, etc may not cover the rv's because the rv's are their for a short time? My friend needs a permanent cover and asked if this might substitute, I guess for a year or so. However, some folks at MOT said that it would offer some RV protection but mildew can be a problem with "fabric" covers. Still, may be better than nothing. We live in a rather humid area, maybe someone with direct experience can comment.
I used a cover(s) on a previous moho (32') we owned for the last 6 years we had it. We went through 3 covers. The first 2 lasted just one year each. The third was a more expenseive model (same company) that lasted 3 years. Overall it was not worth the money or time and work to put the cover on and take off each time the moho was used. The moho was used monthly. We live in Southern California approximately 8 miles from the Pacific. The sun here causes the most damage to the moho (it had decals) and the cover. Also our Santa Ana winds don't help either. The cover itself is a bit heavy and the more expensive one was a lot heavier than the cheaper ones.
Storage was another problem when the cover was off. Getting it on top of the moho to cover was no picnic either. Over time the cover gets rather dirty and nasty to handle. So, when we bought the 36' FT, with paint and no decals, I didn't even consider a cover.
On the other hand if your friend is covering his moho for and extended time, by that I mean months, while in storage just be sure and pad any sharp objects, and fit it tight with straps. Most
decent covers will cost $10.00 per ft or more and "breath" to some extend to avoid mildew.
I did get some mildew on the rubber roof of the moho but I also noticed I got it without using the cover. On our FT I just keep the fiberglas roof waxed along with the sides and find that easier than using a cover.
I covered mine. It will damage the vehicle I don't care how custom it is. Plus the wind ripped it to shreds in a short time. I would not do it again.
I never covered my first one. It was outside all the time. I will say that as long as it was parked close to the other coaches int he storage lot there was not a lot of sun damage on the decals on the sides. The tires will wear a bit faster as will the fiberglass but you can help that with a nice coat of wax. I wouldn't cover it.
Thanks, good points. I think he very much against covering. But he does not have a neighboring RV to protect it. He is under trees, so leaves and sap. Plus no electricity except an over the ground extension cord that is not good. We must dig a ditch, get to 50 amps from transformer. As probably other new owners, like me, a lot to learn and do. I am a bit ahead on what Don Hay calls a steep learning curve, just trying to help. Thanks so much, this forum is valuable to you that have such strong knowledge and have episodes to address. Just imagine how it is to new, first time, owners! We are set....needs frequent wax until can build a shed. And I forgot to tell him of the wheel covers. Mike
Mike, You do not need 50 amps, for storage, you only need enough amps to maintain battery charger, fans, 20 amps should be plenty. Place reflective window insulation in front windshield and between all side windows and the curtains, this controls heat and U.V. damage. Also set the central exhaust fan to come on at around 85 degrees and leave a window cracked for make-up air to circulate. This helps keep the inside of the coach fresh. I do not cover my coach, however I do keep the roof clean (wash it once a month) and waxed. Do cover the tires with any material that will keep the U.V. sun rays from damaging the rubber. I actually leave my window awnings extended to help keep the sun off of the interior, I do roll them up if high wind is forecast. It's a good idea to place insulated blocks in the shower skylight and any other roof vents that act as skylights. The a.c. covers hold up well to U.V. however the refrigerator vent will only last a couple of years. If cold weather (Below freezing) for an extended period of time is a problem, some type of heat will need to be used and that could effect the amperage draw. ^.^d
This is good to remember, thanks. Some of us have concern though as he had tried to run two AC on a 110 cord and that can ruin the AC's. It did not, blew the circuit so maybe not a bad thing to try. I thought going ahead with the 50 while we were digging a ditch would be good, but you make an excellent point that I will surely pass along. Texas gets hot at times and if he wants to go out into the coach and stay with company here or whatever, he will need to stay with one AC as I understand it unless he has the 50. I may have been misleading him thought to go with the 50. Thanks for your overall approach. I was not there. This is very helpful. Mike
If he's already trenching for electric and his home service has the capacity for 50 amp, I'd do the 50. The cost won't be much greater than a lower amp circuit. If he'd need new service/panel to add a 50 amp but has enough capacity, you can do a 30 amp 110V (note - this is sometimes specifically labeled as an RV outlet; don't make the mistake of installing a 30 amp 220V outlet such as you'd use for a cooktop, clothes dryer, etc.). Many (most) electricians aren't used to installing a 30 amp 110V so be sure it's understood what you need.
An A/C on startup can pull as much as 11 or more amps. You might get away with that on a standard electrical outlet if you have a short, heavy gauge extension cord and are on a dedicated circuit and run nothing else, but it can be very iffy and you're going to want to watch the voltage drop carefully. Much better to install a 30 amp at minimum.
Here's a handy website:
RV Electric (http://www.myrv.us/electric/)
Michelle
Try shrink-wrapping the unit as they do motor yachts here in the northeast.
Install plenty of vents and a zippered door.
It is almost like vacumn sealing no flapping and make the unit areodynamic.
I shrink-wrap my Bertram every year. Stands up to heavy snow and ice loads.
Thanks Michelle, have passed the web site along. Been my thoughts too, most of the effort in this is the physical, not the expense for a bit larger wire. Don Hay caught up with me too, argued to try to get to the 50 amp. I told Don I think he has to drop a leg from a transformer nearby as the house electrical does not have extra capacity to run a 50 amp leg. Thanks again