Fixed the hot water heater. Electric element quit working in December. Wayne at FT replaced thermostat and ECO. Unit worked fine through most of our holiday trip. It quit the day before we arrived home. Today I pulled apart the 120VAC control portion. I did not test for continuity immediately, but did press the reset button on the new ECO. It felt like it clicked. I checked continuity. All looked good. I put everything back together, turned it on and waited. Joy! Hot water was available using the electric heater. ^.^d
After working on the unit, I think one could reset the ECO with a small finger or blunt object reaching through a hole on the cover for the 120VAC circuits on the back of the water heater.
I don't know what tripped the ECO switch, but perhaps running both the propane heater and the electric element might generate enough heat to trip the ECO breaker. :-\
12VDC portion of the instant hot water dispenser failed on the trip also. Continuity testing indicated the thermal fuse had blown and opened the circuit. Ordered a new thermal fuse from Sears parts service.
It was just about a year after I fixed mine this way that it stayed on and nearly burned the coach down...
Dave,
Assume you are commenting on J.D.'s water heater or hot water dispenser. Might you clarify/detail? I'm sure others will appreciate it.
Michelle
Fixed what which way? Please explain.
After resetting the overload on the back of the water heater it worked fine for the first time ever. About a year later the control system, overload and thermostat all failed in some manner. Within two hours of plugging in the coach it was so hot behind the water heater that the cardboard covering the insulation smoldered, the gel coat on the ceiling of the bay turned brown and the insulation of all wiring melted along with the fresh water overflow hose.
Replacement of the entire unit ran about 850.00 total. I still need to go back in and try to repair the tank wiring and redo thedrain hose correctly...
D'oh! Thanks for the explanation. That's scary!
Dave was this why you replaced the WH in GA not that long ago ? That's scary. I am not sure that I know where or what the ECO is but guess I better find out ..
Gary B
Gary, I think you can see the ECO module in this picture.
On our coach, there is another ECO/thermostat set on the back of the water heater that serves the 120VAC heating element. It is similar to the ECO/thermostat set for the propane heater on the "front" of the water heater. Wayne at FOT replaced the ECO/thermostat set on the "back" of our heater. The ECO on the "back" has a reset button.
I was able to get some valuable information from the Atwood Water Heater Service manual that I found in PDF format on the Internet. The manual describes operation and troubleshooting for several models of Atwood water heaters.
All this reminds me that our Atwood water heater always works on propane even when the coach is hooked up to shore power. It's been a low priority for me but I wonder if I should check something out and see if it will work on shore power instead. The mention of the AC breaker stimulated my memory on this. :P
Craig
Craig,
If your Atwood WH has an electric element, the there should be an on/off switch at the foot of the bed. Not sure about this location for the Grandvilla models. On the Unicoach the switch is at the foot of the bed.
Arkansas, but yes. The melt down occurred one day before a trip. We drop shipped it from Adventurer RV in TN and got by on the engine heat for hot water on the trip up...
I don't recall anything like that at the foot of the bed. The block heater switch, the DC panel and the AC panel. But I'll take another look today.
Sue and I are still recovering from whatever virus we had. Sue's turned into pneumonia so she's off work 'til next week and I'm not doing a lot (except posting here.... pray for my recovery!). :P
Craig
OK, I am aware that there is a control on the front of the WH, In fact I had to replace the little button thermostat some time ago. I had the WH out to replace some piping last year and did nothing other than disconnect and reconnect the 110 wiring,
Now I know,
Thanks
Gary B
Hey Craig,
If your U225 is like mine, the water heater switch is in the woodwork below the sink, next to the water pump switch. According to the 91 brochure, U225 water heaters were propane and engine coolant only (2 way). There was no option for 120v electric. This may have changed for 93, don't know. I imagine the main panel will have a circuit breaker for it if this is the case.
I just installed a 3-way to replace the 1-way (manual ignition) that was in there. The unit came with a 2 switch panel, one for propane and one for electric, which I'll have to install and connect to make it work. Was hoping FT made a 3 switch panel (to include the water pump), but after a phone call found out they did not. As I have removed the converter, I had a spare 20 amp circuit I could use for the water heater. As it turned out, the AC cable to power the converter went through the floor right below the water heater and ran along the storage bay - so when the old heater was pulled, I was able to pull the the Romex back and reroute it for the water heater.
Steve
Merle... yes, I do have that switch under the galley sink. In fact, I think it's a three-way rocker switch. I will check it tomorrow and see what happens if I move it to the other position.
Thanks a million. :)
Craig