Wondering if it is prudent to periodically start the engine when staying for long periods - we will be at our current location for about 2 1/2 months. Thanks!
I probably would start it once a week, but probably would think nothing about letting it sit for 2 1/2 months untouched in storage. This only means that I am irrational at times.
oldMattB
I realize it's a "pain-in-the-butt" to undo the entire campsite to take the motorhome out for a 30 mile run. You need to do this procedure to ensure that all components are exercised to the point that all lube points are not going to dry and cause leaks of all sorts. This includes gaskets which are the main reason for problems down the road. I can mention them here, but there are a lot of gaskets and rubber components in a motorhome drive train and chassis.
Also, a TriklStart type battery maintainer for the start batteries is not a bad idea. Otherwise turn the "boost" switch on for a day once a week (if a Foretravel). SOB motorhomes may have the battery boost feature as well.
Although I am sure Peter is correct about driving the coach monthly, I don't believe most people actually do that. I try to at least start the engine and generator once a month and let the engine run until the coolant temp comes up to operating temperature. We seldom let the coach sit over three months at a time since we are virtually full timers.
I hopes of becoming a FT owner (someday) I have been gathering/filing all the "new to me" info I can. This forum is just a wealth of data/info for my "continuing education". Some super nice FT owners have helped educate me via PMs and phone calls too.....and I really appreciate that.
FWIW, I found some info a while back at the Wanderlodge Owner's Site that pertains to "warming up your engine periodically while in storage". On the 3rd page of the document (link enclosed) it says (at least for the 3208 Cat engine) that unless you can operate the engine under road-load conditions for 40 or 50 minutes, you are better off not to even start it. "Sauce for the goose usually being sauce for the gander" one would think that what is applicable to a Cat is applicable to Cummins, Detroit, Kubota, et al. I am not sure of the origin of the document ..... the format is not the same as other "official" Cat documents I have acquired.
http://www.wanderlodgeownersgroup.com/downloads/3208%20Cat%20Engine%20Questions%20and%20Answers.pdf (http://www.wanderlodgeownersgroup.com/downloads/3208%20Cat%20Engine%20Questions%20and%20Answers.pdf)
Ed Sievers,
Fairview, TX
This seems to be a point of great confusion, and perhaps an engine/drivetrain expert could give a definitive answer. I, for one, would appreciate that.
As we continue on our journey toward becoming full-timers, a Foretravel is quickly becoming one of the top options. One concern, though, is that we'd like to purchase our full-time coach approximately a year before I retire, so that we can get it ready and then put the place up for sale. Since we're both teachers, and heavily involved at church, that would mean that there would be few opportunities to actually use our retirement coach during that year. Yes, we could drive a motor home down to Springfield to Sam's once a month (about 100 miles round trip), but is that enough exercise? Also, what about accepting a month-long workamping position?
Others may disagree, but I think you're better off not idling the engine that long, Kent (until it reaches operating temps). Its okay for the genset to run once a month for about 30 mins to 1 hour as this speed is what the engine and generator were designed to do.
I'm over-killing things as I do not use the coach that much. But over the road for 30 miles and a total of one hour exercises the breaks, tranny, compressor, dash A/C, etc.
I agree completely. While a trailer (or 5th wheel) can be left sitting for months at a time with little to go wrong other than, maybe, batteries, a motor home has a drive train that needs to be exercised. Moving the coach down the road ensures that the parts that are "splash" lubricated actually do get lubricated. Including the vanes in the transmission, the crankshaft and associated bearings, etc. You should also probably turn the front a/c on, too.
For kb0zke (gee, it's still easy for me to remember call signs - I'm K7EXJ)... that 100 mile trip to Sam's would be the perfect outing. You could run everything for about $40 a month!!!
Craig
We have been living full time in this particular coach (U270) for about 9 years or so and only staying in RV parks about 2% of the time which means that we have to move the coach to dump and fill every 15-21 days. Some runs are 10 miles round trip and some are over 15-20 and during that time the coach gets exercised in many areas such as brakes, tires, differential, any moving surface like shock shafts, and all types of bearings.
It is my contention that with 240,000 miles or so on the coach and having had minimal problems with the coach during that time, I contribute to moving the coach every two-three weeks has prevented problems from developing.
If one does move the coach however, I am in agreement with those that propose driving more than 8-10 miles when exercising your coach.
Simple solution to exercising the coach monthly. Join a FMCA Chapter ( or two ) and go to nearby weekend rallies each month or so. Good folks, good food, good fun and your get to enjoy using your coach. We belong to the MC and the FMCA Georgia Funseekers and it is seldom that we go over two months without going to a rally, then we take two long trips a year, summer to CO and west to visit relatives, winter to FL. AND the earlier you start using your coach the longer you can. Too many wait til retirement or being able to afford it and then their health cancels their plans.
Just the raving of an old fart sitting in his FT with nothing to do til bingo tonite. :)
Gary B
I recently read an article that said you can damage a diesel generator engine if you run it very much without the engine being loaded.
I am GUESSING that if this can damage the diesel generator engine, damage to the drive engine might occur if you do not load it also.
I am trying to drive the coach 60-70 miles every 1-2 months and not idle the drive engine. Also, I am trying to run the diesel generator engine and load it with battery charging or the air conditioner if it is warm enough.
Other items to load the generator, the electric portion of the hot water heater if not an AquaHot, electric heat strip in the roof air, run a 1500 watt electric heater or two but pick shore direct plugs that do not go thru the inverter, toaster oven.
The Foretravel wiring diagrams I have seen indicate that the inverter is bypassed by a transfer switch when 120VAC power is supplied by the generator or shore power. Any of the 120VAC sockets would have power directly from the generator or shore power if one of those sources is on line.
I try to exercise our coach at least once a month. The drill includes honking the air horns, running dash air, running house air, running generator, operating furnaces, operating water heater on electric and propane, adjusting mirrors, operating windshield washers, running a bit of water through all faucets, etc. We are in a mild climate and don't winterize.
My engine pros tell me that engines like load. Simply idling, even with the transmission in gear and brakes applied, typically won't create enough load. Diesel combustion at idle doesn't generate sufficient heat. Pistons, rings, and liners won't expand to normal operating clearances and tolerances. Combustion byproducts will blow past the rings and land in the oil raising the acidity of the oil. Moisture produced by the exhaust will collect in the exhaust system creating acid and corrosion. Cylinder liners will glaze due to insufficient combustion pressures. Engines love to be under load and dislike idling and freewheeling. When my coach is stored, I get in it every 3 weeks and drive it for 50 to 60 miles. This is the only way to hit 30 psi of turbo boost on my DDEC IV 12.7L Series-60. If you want to store it for prolonged periods without driving it, then check the manufacturers recommendations. The DD manual outlines steps to take to prepare an engine for prolonged periods of non-operation.
David Brady
'02 Blue Bird Wanderlodge LXi
NC
There is much written on the subject of Engine Condensation, so Google it, more than I want to type here.
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=engine%20condensation&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CCQQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.carbibles.com%2Fengineoil_bible.html&ei=B4YVT5zdEq240gHKz5H4CQ&usg=AFQjCNEdy8gCnkiTJWDtBVJ9qUGeeOSPKA (http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=engine%20condensation&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CCQQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.carbibles.com%2Fengineoil_bible.html&ei=B4YVT5zdEq240gHKz5H4CQ&usg=AFQjCNEdy8gCnkiTJWDtBVJ9qUGeeOSPKA)
Cheers
Thanks Dave,
I Goggled diesel engine condensation and learned a lot, including to drain a small amount of engine oil, after engine has been sitting for a long time, to see if there is any antifreeze or water in oil.
And, you don't even need to remove the drain plug completely, just loosen it. If there's water in the sump it will run down the threads.
David Brady
'02 Blue Bird, Wanderlodge, LXi
NC
Getting a sample of engine oil is helped by our Femco drain plug. We also purchase their quick drain sampler hose, which we have not used. I will try it out soon.