I am looking at getting my first RV and am looking at a 1992 model 3000, I was hoping I could get any info about the 3000, like any known issue, any good issue.
Here is a little info on it's features,
Cummins 5.9 190 hp-130,000 miles
Allison 542 transmission
Brakes are Hyd. Disk
Rear Axel Dana HD 80
Oshkosh Chassis
6.3 diesel L.P generator
This Grand Villa is going to need some TLC on the cosmetic end but I am for function over fashion to start off with. I can take care of the cosmetic end later.
No leaks that I can see and I have looked it over 4 times.
It will need new tires.
Everything I have tried on it works, the air conditioner that comes from the dash blows cool air, not very cold.
If I where to get this I would do tires and brakes first, then take if to the Cummins place up in OKC for service and then go from there, also
would do the Koni shock thing on it.
It looks like a 20 year old RV but the inside just needs new carpet and some elbow grease.
I have just mentioned general things, I do have a spec. sheet if there are questions about other features.
I just would like comments on the model 3000 in general.
Thanks for your time.
I can only talk about the Cummins 5.9 @ 190 hp and the Allison 540 series, I have one in my Freightliner FL 60, used as a crane truck for my business, it has 190K miles and never wants or needs anything beyound normal oil change & filters, did need new belt tensioner and new air conditioner compressor, truck is a 1997 I think.
It is not the quickest nor fastest, but it will get you there very nicely with reasonable fuel mileage.
Enjoy that setup.
Dave M
Take a look at the brochure here:
1992 Foretravel Ored Specifications (http://beamalarm.com/foretravel-links/models/1992_foretravel_ored_specifications.html)
Tons of info on Barry's site.
I see 3400 and 3600 models - indicates the length, I believe. So is your coach a 30 footer?
I'll bet we're talking a Front Engine (5.9 Cummins) 3000. This: 1992 Front Engine Specifications (http://www.beamalarm.com/foretravel-links/models/1992_front_engine_specifications.html) and the floorplans: 1992 Foretravel Front Engine Floorplans (http://www.beamalarm.com/foretravel-links/models/1992-foretravel-front-engine-floorplans.html)
And welcome aboard Chug.
Thanks for the info Dave M, Dave Head and PatC,
Sounds like the engine will last if you take care of it, which is the case with most things.
I think I will get this Grand Villa, probably next week as I am headed into the heart of Texas for Big 12 Tennis in College Station.
I will post pictures and have lots of questions about the Grand Villa.
First question is I need to get tires first thing, I was looking at
Michelin XZA or GoodYear G670 RV, the GV has 19.5 rims.
I have liked the Michelin's on my pickup truck for the last 20 years and I have heard good things about Goodyear's RV tires.
Is there any other tire brand or style that I should be considering?
Also I read that Michelin has a FMCA Michelin Advantage Program.
I guess I would need to join FMCA and go from there on that, has anyone done this and was the process easy.
I live in Oklahoma, does anybody have a good tire dealer they would recommend in the OKC area for these tires,
T & W TIRE in OKC cares the two tires I have mentioned, anybody have experience with them?
Will that is it for now, any thoughts on tires would be appreciated, I have read post on the forum here about tires so I have
done some research.
Thanks and have a great day.
Chug,
I recall this thread with positive comment on TCI in OKC Outstanding service from TCI Tire in OK City (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=14136.0)
From reading (thanks Peter!), TCI is a wholly-owned subsidiary of Michelin and most should be FMCA Advantage program participants. You do need to work through FMCA as a member for the discounted price; you actually pay FMCA for the tires. Not all Michelin dealers participate in the program so you'll need to check if the one you're considering does.
Good luck with your coach purchase!
Michelle
If Toyota or bridgestone has correct size/load range they are fine too
On this age of coach tires represent a significant investment vs total value of Coach, so I would consider price as most important vs. brand
Chug, I have used T & W for years and have had excellent experience and pricing from them. I have not used the FMCA discount but I'm betting you will get better price from T & W on Bridgestones than Michelin's even with the FMCA discount. My Bridgestones worked fins on my 93 U225.
I'm not sure what kind of price the seller is looking for on the 3000 but it is a very rare bird and unless it is exceptionally inexpensive I would look around some more. In my opinion the 190 hp 5.9 Cummins is barely marginal if you intend to pull a car. I would also prefer air or Torsialasitic suspension and a Foretravel chassis rather than the Oshkosh and 22.5" tires if everything else is equal. With all of that said I would still prefer a Foretravel Grand Villa 3000 to some other brand of that vintage. All of the components used in any Foretravel were top notch.
Just my thoughts, FWIW.
Thanks for the advice on the tires everyone, I do appreciate it.
Kent, I am just up the road from you in Norman.
Kent, I would like to get the things you described, but with the economy the way it is, I am going to stay within my means and not get over extended, the price of this GV is in the 4 digit zone so I am not breaking the bank to get it. I should be able to get tires, brakes done if they need it and the engine tuned up or what ever they do to diesels to make them run smoothly when I take position.
I like the diesel over a 454 or 460 that some motorhomes have in them from the early 90's, I would like to pull my jeep someday but it needs work and will be a while before it is ready, I do have an old BMW cycle I would like to pull, don't know if that would put much of a load on the 5.9.
It would just be my old dog and I visiting people in the summer time. No family to tote around, also thought this size would be a good starter to see how much I liked the motorhome life style, I have spent a lot of nights in tents and would like something more comfortable these days. Enough rambling for now.
Thanks again everybody for your advice.
Great points and a well thought out plan of action. If you don't plan on running fully loaded at 70 MPH, you could even price retreaded tires for the rear axle. Quality Bandag retreads on Michelin casings will give great performance if you don't overload the tire and run 70 MPH plus.
No Retreads on Steer axle of course - if you decide to go retreads on tag, pay attention to the date codes on the tires - you don't want casings that are over 4-5 years old when you mount them.
We had fleets we maintained and all used retreads on drive tires, had great luck unless they had a low of flat tire on an axle and one tire was taking the load of two, and the driver didn't notice and went down te road at 70 - 80 MPH until the tire heated up and failed due to those conditions.
I know others on the forum will disagree perhaps, but for a coach that is valued under $10K, this approach makes good sense as long as you pay attention to your tire inflation before you go on the highway for extended periods.
Chug, i certainly understand the limited budget issue. If you can get any Foretravel for under ten grand that has all of the components working I dont think you can go wrong. I know when I bought my U225 at Ron's there in New Castle I had no idea of the different models available, the differences in the models and their valuues. Just trying to help!!!
Go for it and welcome to the family.
The Cummins "B" engine is one of the best out there, especially now with the price of diesel at $4 plus per gallon. UPS uses the 4 cylinder version in a lot of their trucks and Dodge has a huge following with the 5.9 in their PUs. At 190 HP, the engine should run forever even if operating at full throttle pulling a trailer.
For a lot of us, the financial golden years have turned into the tin or zinc years so there is absolutely nothing wrong with looking at recaps or used tires for the rear or any other deals you may come across. A bargain Foretravel can provide years of RV enjoyment without worrying about payments, scratching shiny paint or expensive full coverage insurance. Hope you have as much fun with yours as I have with mine.
Lots of posts on this forum on how to do a big percentage of the maintenance yourself. A good way to keep both the costs and trouble to a minimum.
Good reading on the B engine at: Cummins B Series engine - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cummins_B_Series_engine)
Pierce
Good post about a bargain foretravel. Hit home as I stretched to buy a 97 u320 with the red top motor and dual pane windows and aqua hot. Way past my price but I hope the big step saves the intermediate steps I probably would have taken.
Might trade this 40 for the same mid entry u320 red top in a 36 although. Only seen one poster here with that coach and they are in Canada. No front door. Used to the unihomes and oreds. Mine is a unicoach center entry walk through bath floor plan with 100k on the coach.
Bob
Thanks for the all the info everybody's been giving me, hopefully next week I will have pictures and start working on upgrading the GV.
As I stated earlier I was going to College Station for the Big 12 Tennis Tournament, I am a photographer for the OU Athletic Department and am traveling with the tennis team.
So we get into town and go strait to the tennis courts for practice and this is in the parking lot of the tennis courts.
Did not see anybody around it, maybe I will see somebody today and ask questions.
Very, very nice.
Have a great day everybody.
Finally got the Model 3000 bought and home this week. I am very exited to start doing things to it and trying to figure out how everything works.
First thing I need to get for it are tires.
I have a question about tire size, the tires that are on it are R8 19.5, the tires are only 6 inches across the tread. I would like a little more rubber on
the ground.
Goodyear has tire sizes of 225/70R19.5 (F rating) and 245/70R19.5 (F and G rating). From the chart it looks as the 245 is a wider tire. Would
this be ok to get if there is enough clearance.
Bridgestone has 265/70R19.5 which I guess is an even wider tire.
My question is can I get some more rubber under me. The tires that are on it look small and weak even if they where new. I want some meat under me so to speak and I would like the sidewalls to stand up strait like bus tires.
I will talk to the tire guys at T&W tires since they are in the business but thought I would see if there was any advice I could get before I head up to the tire store.
Also, do I need to start a new thread for the Model 3000? I will take pics of the GV and pics of the upgrades as I go along.
Again very excited about my new to me Grand Villa, A friend came by to look at it and we sat in it for 2 hours talking.
Thanks and have a great weekend.
Congrats, Chug!
If you'd like to start new threads as you have specific questions (or bragging :) ) about individual items that's perfectly fine. You can also add to this thread if you'd like - no hard and fast rules around here ;) .
I know I enjoy reading upgrade threads over in the Renovations board (before and after photos are always inspiring!), so that would be my one recommendation - post the upgrades on that board so folks can find them easily.
Michelle
The proper size tires, as spec'ed by Foretravel, for your GrandVilla 3000 are 8R 19.5. The accepted updated tire size would be the 225/70R19.5 tire. You can not put bigger 245/70R19.5 tire on your rear duals because the rim is two skinny and the two tires will rub together, heat up and blow out. You don't want that! You may not be able to put the 245/70R19.5 tires on the front either as they might rub on something, again causing a blow out. In fact, you best check for clearance if you do end up putting the 225/70R19.5. One thing about the 225/70R19.5 is the fact that the tire is not as tall as the 8R 19.5 tire and if will slightly lower you fuel mileage. But it should help in the road handling area somewhat. The 8R 19.5 can be hard to find, but I would not hesitate to put them on considering all the factors. They are a bit lighter than the metric 225 tire, and as I stated, they are a bit taller. Also, you might find the 8R 19.5 tire to be a bit more reasonable too. When your talking larger tires, the sticker shock can really get you! Shop around for prices!!! What you want to do is make sure you have the proper psi in your tires. To do that you want to weight all four corners of you rig and air them up following the manufacturers weigth/air inflation chart. You can see a example of it at http://www.rvtirepressure.com/assets/images/extrapages/Michelin_Rv_Load_Inflation.pdf (http://www.rvtirepressure.com/assets/images/extrapages/Michelin_Rv_Load_Inflation.pdf). But considering you skinny rims, you also want make sure that the rims will handle the air pressure called for in the chart. Your maximum psi might be limited by your rims. They should be stamped somewhere for the maximum PSI. Oh, forget those 265/70R19.5, cause they will not fit your rims!
And check out the following Michelin pdf: http://www.michelinrvtires.com/assets/pdf/RVTiresBrochure.pdf (http://www.michelinrvtires.com/assets/pdf/RVTiresBrochure.pdf)]
Chug, The 9R tires are used on almost all UPS Package cars and at times can be hard to find. They are the biggest users of these size tires. Find a big tire dealer in a big city and ask him who is is supplying UPS tires, then check with them, they will have or will know when they can get 9R's. I have had a coach with 19.5's and had no problems except when I did something foolish like using used tires to save money. At least with these you can change them yourself easier than the 22.5's.
Welcome aboard.
Gary B
I have a question about the 3000, it has a D-celerator exhaust brake on it. It says it is to assist the brakes and was put on in 1996 so says the receipt.
Is this something that should be taken off or leave it on? Don't know if it is still in working order. I was just going through the books that where 3000 and found the paper work.
I did find the D-celerator switch so it is there.
Also looked under the 3000 at the muffler and it has some weird thing before the muffler, is this part of the D-celeerator?
Last question for now. Can I put a resonator on my little 5.9 cummins?
Thanks everybody hope your having a great Sunday.
Sounds like it may be an exhaust brake. Google the part number on that invoice and see what model it is.
A problem COULD be the transmission. Give Allison a call with the model and serial number of the transmission and ask them: Allison help line 800 252 5283.
Brett
D-Celerator Diesel Exhaust Brake Operating and Installation Instructions (http://www.usgear.cc/dc_install.htm)
See if you can find that heavy duty exhaust springs were installed. They're needed for max exhaust brake performance. A resonator won't help the 5.9 unless you turn up the pump and install higher flow injectors. If the muffler is rusted you can run a straight pipe.
The D-celerator is equal to the PRXB Pac brake. It has a wastegate style bypass to keep the pressure up. They've been around a long time. That is likely the D-celerator you are looking at...
I have another question, as I am getting tires and brakes updated I am going to do shocks as well. The people seemed to be pleased with Koni shock.
On the Koni RV site they list these Foretravel model
91-95 Foretravel U225, U-240 w/ velvetride,
96-04 Foretravel U280, U300, U320 and
05- Foretravel Phenix/Nimbus (FSD)
My Model 3000 has shocks and leaf springs and I don't think I have a velvetride. How do I go about finding the right shock for my 3000?
Do I need to call Foretravel? What other ways are there to find out the proper size?
Thanks you everyone who has replied to my questions. There will be many more.
More questions for the group.
I went to look in the battery compartment and found 2 car batteries instead of the two huge batteries that where in there.
They where going to put new batteries in it, but 2 interstate batteries can't be enough. I will deal with this issue in
person with them.
In the mean time I was wondering how many cranking amps I needed for the 5.9 Cummins? I have looked in the Operator's Manual
and only see battery care.
I like the Optima battery in my pick up truck and a few here have talked highly of them.
How many do I need and do I need the red top or yellow top for starting the engine?
Has anyone used the blue top in there motorhome for the house batteries, if so how many and I guess that very's on what you want to power in you motorhome.
Pics of the 3000 will be coming soon (although I am sure no one is holding there breath, Ha). Does anybody in the group have a 3000?
Thank you for your advice.
Check with Cummins with your engine serial number for CCA requirements.
I use the Optima Red Top starting batteries-- two at 800 CCA each for our Caterpillar 3116. That should be well more than adequate for you. I know newer Foretravels with larger engines take 3 Optimas.
Brett
I used two Interstate flooded lead acid series 31 batteries for my Cummins 5.9 in my 93, U225. They worked fine for me and were very economical. As I recall, they were 650 CCA each.
The 5.9 Cummins requires to 1049cca batteries. Red tops are best for starting.
Some small updates on the 3000 with pics.
I have not got tires yet, I was trying to find aluminum rims for the MH like the big boys have but could not find any for the Oshkosh chassis, the 6 lug pattern is a killer for any type of custom rims.
I guess I will either powder coat or go with replicators on the wheels, also checked on chroming and I would have to send them to California and that is just a little to much trouble for the rims. I thought there might be a place in Dallas but have not found one yet. If anybody know anything
about custom rims for a 6 lug pattern feel free to share any info.
Started treating the wood in the MT with WATCO Natural Danish Oil, apply one coat and let set for 30 minutes and then a 2 coat for 15 minutes, after each coach wipe off with a soft towel. You can see the treated wood on the wall left of the stove.
Pulled off the fake wood protecter on the left side of the stove and the mirror behind the stove and will replace with stainless steel.
Microwave/conviction oven over the stove will come out and be replaced with a new microwave, stainless steel if I can find one that fits decent,
I would think a new microwave would be more efficient than that 20 year old machine that is there now. If anyone wants the old one let me know.
There are other shots of the 3000 and I will have a post after this one with a few more pics.
Chug, If that is a Sharp Microwave Convection over, keep it, probably won't find better in the modern ones. Wood looks good, I'll send you my address and when you finish yours you can :) .....
Gary B
I will put a full size bed in the back and sleep side ways from the original configuration as I am 6-3 and don't fit with my head at the end of the Motorhome. I will put new wood across the whole back of the room and hinges so I can lift up the hole bed and access the items under the bed like the heater and stuff.
Also new handle's in the kitchen area.
Took the TV out from over the dash board and will pull out the cabinet that the TV sat in and shorten the bottom, when in the drivers seat it hangs a little low for my liking obstructing my view. I will make it a small shelf or maybe a control panel for electronic.
Basically I have just been doing a little cleaning and piddling around, I have another week of work on the computer and then I can
get serous about getting this road ready.
The electrical plug says it is 50 AMP but has 3 prongs as the picture shows. Can I find a plug for this to hook up an extension cord from the house and run lights in the MH? Any help with electrical would be greatly appreciated.
Unfortunately no trips this summer as the old boy to the left is now in a doggy nursing home and I am the nurse. So I will work on the
MH this summer and do what I can to make it a solid road worthy and safe MH.
As always any advise or wisdom is always welcome.
If I get tires this week I will update with photos.
Hope everyone is having a great weekend.
Chug
Mr. Bouland,
The 30inch built-in microwave-convection hood is a KitchenAid and I believe it is original to the MH, I do have the manual.
I may play around with it and see how it works, it looks to be in great shape, I just don't know about the convection part of it.
I have heard that it cooks faster but dry's out food if your cooking something but I am no expert.
Chug
Chug, That is a 50 amp twistlock plug. Did you get a cord with the MH ? If not try a MH selvage yard to get a cord, it should have the twistlock on one end and a 4 prong 50 amp plug on the other.
Try these sites
Batteries -- and Other Electric Stuff by phred (http://www.phrannie.org/battery.html)
Foretravel Motorhome technical help and information links (http://www.beamalarm.com/foretravel-links/foretravel-technical-help.html)
Gary B
Chug, I think you hit the lottery on that one. What a great looking coach.
Chug,
I'm not familiar with the Kitchenaid models, but do love my Sharp convection microwave. I do a lot of cooking in the RV and always have excellent results (well, except that one time I accidentally did a homemade pizza on high-Mix. 30% microwave mixed with convection and yeast dough don't play well ::)
I treat mine just like a normal oven, no recipe tweaks. Preheat first, then when the preheat is over put the item in the oven and do "convection" for the usual recipe time.
If you opt for stainless and it will fit, Sharp has two 18xx models in stainless. One is mostly stainless front (1874T),
(https://www.foreforums.com/imagecache.php?image=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.sharpusa.com%2F%7E%2Fmedia%2FImages%2FHome%2FForHome%2FHomeAppliances%2FMicrowaveOvens%2FProducts%2FR1874%2F1_R1874-HO-hires.ashx%3Fw%3D150%26amp%3Bh%3D150%26amp%3Bbc%3Dffffff&hash=a7c42c7e1851477e274c6705a939e717" rel="cached" data-hash="a7c42c7e1851477e274c6705a939e717" data-warn="External image, click here to view original" data-url="http://www.sharpusa.com/~/media/Images/Home/ForHome/HomeAppliances/MicrowaveOvens/Products/R1874/1_R1874-HO-hires.ashx?w=150&h=150&bc=ffffff)
the other kind of looks like a Roman soldier helmet (1880)
(https://www.foreforums.com/imagecache.php?image=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.sharpusa.com%2F%7E%2Fmedia%2FImages%2FHome%2FForHome%2FHomeAppliances%2FMicrowaveOvens%2FProducts%2FR1880LS%2FR-1880LS-HO-HighRes.ashx%3Fw%3D150%26amp%3Bh%3D150%26amp%3Bbc%3Dffffff&hash=4f88f202c2bb9e8c60d9e07b5a4f5b4f" rel="cached" data-hash="4f88f202c2bb9e8c60d9e07b5a4f5b4f" data-warn="External image, click here to view original" data-url="http://www.sharpusa.com/~/media/Images/Home/ForHome/HomeAppliances/MicrowaveOvens/Products/R1880LS/R-1880LS-HO-HighRes.ashx?w=150&h=150&bc=ffffff)
If I had my act together a couple of weeks ago before we got on the road, our 1870 in black would now be an 1874T in stainless (solely for the look; we had the microwave out to fish a surge protector display wire).
Michelle
Chug, Easy way to check out the Microwave Convection oven.... Have your wife ( Or significant other ) cook you a meal including some Cinnamon sticky buns in it. If she does it right the oven is working properly. :giggle:
Gary B
I have several of the 50 amp twist loc cords. I am located in Florida, but do not know where you are located.
In case you haven't seen the warnings else where - if you replace the microwave, make sure it is hinged so the door will open all the way.
I took off the back tires last night and have attached some photos to show you the shape that some of the tires where in.
This is why I took the tires off and will take them to the tire shop and not drive the MH.
Went out to the pick up truck this morning and someone helped themselves to some of the rims as I was short 2. They got in the back of my truck and took 2 and left 2. I was going to get new tires this morning but called the police instead. Lesson learned.
I will get two tires put on my two rims tomorrow and will try to take some pics of the process.
I am getting Michelin 8R XZA's on the back. May go a different way on the front tires.
Last photo is of the old boy who likes to lay on one of the old mattresses from the MH. I will give him a day or two to enjoy laying on it then off it goes.
Got new tires on the back a couple of weeks ago at TCI in OKC. They had new dated tires and where helpful with the Michelin Advantage Program.
Going to order some 19.5 X 7 rims from Rickson Truck Wheels and put 245's on the front.
I have some questions about my heater. It is a Hydro Flame Excalibur 8500-II Series, after 20 years is this a safe heater to
have under my bed. Do I need to have it serviced or pull it out and just run an electric heater? I must admit I am not a big fan of sleeping on a gas heater.
Also there is a red button under the bed next to the fuse box (see attached pictures) what does it do?
Taking the Villa up to Cummins in OKC in the next few weeks, I thought I should get the fluids changed and get it on a regular maintenance
program. I will also have them go over the engine and start doing any service that may need to be done to make it a dependable ride.
Any advice of what I should have them do or look for would be appreciated? The engine is 5.9 190 horses.
Also I think there is a vacuum motor under the fridge, I can just yank that out? I think I will go another rout on vacuuming.
And yet another question. What does the Power Switch do and does this need to be updated? I will not be doing any electrical
until the engine has been taken care of but thought I would ask.
Also Lee's RV in Edmond, OK is now Camping World, I went up there Tuesday and they where closed and the Camping World sign was
going up on the side of the building. FYI. Don't know if that is good or bad.
Thank you everybody, I do appreciate your time.
Ty (CHUG)
HAVE IT SERVICED-- MAY STILL BE JUST FINE.
THAT IS A RESETABLE BREAKER. PROBABLY FEEDS ONE OF YOUR MAIN 12 VDC FEEDS.
THAT IS YOUR ATS (AUTOMATIC TRANSFER SWITCH. IT SWITCHES 120 VAC BETWEEN SHORE POWER AND GENERATOR. IF IT WORKS, KEEP IT-- THEY LAST A LONG TIME UNLESS SWITCHED UNDER LOAD (I.E. SOMETHING LIKE THE ROOF A/C IS ON WHEN YOU CHANGE POWER SOURCES.
Chug, glad things are progressing.
When you go to Cummins, OKC, take your check book. I did not have much luck with them when I had my 93, U225. I guess they are OK for changing fluids but the really stuck me for the repairs to my exhaust system and PAC Brake and my imagined cooling problems. You can expect to spend over $1,000 for all of the fluids at Cummins. I would suggest Speedco, http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=2&ved=0CF4QFjAB&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.kudzu.com%2Fm%2FSpeedco-Truck-Lube-2902938&ei=it75T8foDsnd6wH9vojYBg&usg=AFQjCNGP0tBV08pGc9yGz24QDGWDIs65eA&sig2=a9xQwPRMTeNFJsPPr0Yggg (http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=2&ved=0CF4QFjAB&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.kudzu.com%2Fm%2FSpeedco-Truck-Lube-2902938&ei=it75T8foDsnd6wH9vojYBg&usg=AFQjCNGP0tBV08pGc9yGz24QDGWDIs65eA&sig2=a9xQwPRMTeNFJsPPr0Yggg). I haven't used them personally but I know several other forum members have used them and liked the results.
Regarding the furnace, it probably would be a good idea to have a trained technician check to make sure the heat exchanger has no holes but I have no concerns running my two gas furnaces on my 93. I don't recongnize the red button but it looks like a 12V breaker.
The Power Switch under the bed is what controls the source of the110V power in the coach. It is simply a switch that allows only one 110V/220V source. You can get power from either an outside source via the long wire you would plug into a power post at a campground or from you generator, I don't think your coach has an inverter. It decides what power source to use if AC power is available. You would not want both your generator and an exterior power source feeding electricity to your coach at the same time.
I have dealt with Lee's in Edmund before. I was very satisfied with their service. I think it will be much better than McClain's. I am presuming that they moved out of the McClain facility.
I see no reason you can't remove the vacuum. We use a Oreck and love it. Be sure to close off the exhaust hole from the central vac to the bay. You don't want critters getting into the interior of the coach that way.