I'm currently in the market for a Foretravel with a Detroit Diesel 6V92TA 350hp engine. I need a motor home that's in good condition and road ready. I would also consider a Vogue or a well done bus conversion with a 6V92 or 8V92 as long as the bus doesn't have a tag axle... I just really like 2 stroke diesels. Thanks for your help in finding one.
Scott
(972) 522-0109
You've come to the right spot. A lot of DD fans here. Let us know if you need any advise. Will PM you tomorrow.
Pierce
To up Pierce's welcome,
Hope you can bring 6/8V92 knowledge.
Check with Dave Metzer.
I have a 300 HP 6V92,the two above mentioned are my source of information.
Bill Chaplin
Thanks for the warm welcome. My only experience with Detroit Diesels has been industrial engines, mostly generator sets and fire pumps. Where I work currently we have a set of three 20V149TIB engines which are the most powerful two stroke engines ever built. They're 3000 cubic inch engines producing 3000 horsepower with 6 turbochargers with intercoolers and I think they have three superchargers per engine. The three engines together produce enough electricity to run the entire city of Plano Texas, where they're located. We also have a 6V92TA in a genset. There was also a 20 cylinder Detroit genset at another place I worked previously. Almost every place I've worked has had Detroits and I really like them. I'm a data center engineer by trade. I take care of the mechanical and electrical equipment. Our mechanical repairs are usually contracted to Stewart & Stevenson, so I don't do much wrench turning.
I was just talking to this gentleman by telephone. He says it's a 6V92 with a turbo and it's rated 300 horsepower. He says it has the radiator in the back instead of the side. He said it has no bulkhead issues and he knows what to look for. I wasn't aware there were 300hp turbo 6V92 engines. Is that because the rear radiator couldn't handle the heat of 350hp? If I mount a motorcycle on the back bumper will it cause the rear radiator to overheat?
1991 Foretravel U300 Grandvilla Unihome, ST PETERSBURG FL - 97270940 - (http://www.rvtrader.com/listing/1991-FORETRAVEL-U300-Grandvilla-Unihome-97270940)
I have the same coach but 40 ft. Yes, '91 and prior they were 300 hp with rear radiator. It will have a 600 series transmission and should have either a retarder or jake brake. Both the engine and tranny are electronic control (DDEC II and ATEC for tranny).
In '92 they made a lot of changes: 350hp, side radiator and 700 series transmission (due to power increase), wide (102") body, HWH computer controlled air leveling, bumpers built into fiberglass cap.
More power is always nicer until it comes time to fill the tank. Increasing the power on an '91 is not an option due to radiator and tranny. A 36' should be a little quicker than a 40'
I actually like the manual air leveling due to it's simplicity: 3 levers on floor in drivers area with heavy duty sheaved cables to the ride height valves, zero electronics.
I haven't had any trouble with the engine or tranny in 11 years of ownership. I have had overheating issues and added a side radiator to solve it - every other owner of similar make/model I speak to says it's been OK for them. I doubt a motorcycle on the back would affect the air flow much - the bumper sticks out way and preventing you from getting it too close. My opinion is the system is starved for air on the other side of the radiator. You do need to consider if weight will be too much for hitch - theres' been topics on that, seach the forum.
My mileage averages at least 8.5 mpg but that's based on "miles traveled"/"gallons in" calculations - not from engine computer. Others seem to get less mpg.
I find the power train likes the 62 mph zone. (national speed limit of 55 mph was in effect when these coaches were built)
Hope this helps.
I would much rather have the manual air leveling. Less to go wrong on an already very complex older coach.
Living in Texas, you should be able to get 8.5 mpg overall unless you drive faster than 65. The U300 is glass smooth from 55 to 82 but 62 is also our cruise speed with 10 to 12 mpg on the flat without a headwind. Nice to watch the country go by without having to pay too much attention to traffic or the rear view mirror (or the fuel gauge). Met another Florida U300 in Yellowstone. Averaged 7.9 mpg over 5 years with a lot of mountain destinations. No maintenance issues in all that time except for a cracked exhaust manifold 2 weeks earlier. Petal to the metal gets 6 mpg at 82 mph, 5 mpg in the mountains.
From the decals, it has been sitting outside all it's life. Photos are not good enough to judge the condition. You need high res before making the airline reservation. How many miles? Records/history?
Rear radiator also means a less than 30 second hydraulic belt change turns into a much longer process. Everything is much easier to get to through the rear door with the side radiator. Even our side radiator is marginal on warm days combined with grades. No problem at any speed on the flat but a couple percent grade brings it off the thermostat.
Ours has more than enough power at sea level. Can always use another 100 hp up at 8000 feet.
Jake works very well even on the steepest grades. Even with toad, we never heat the brakes.
Much different floor plan than our 36' so can't comment on livability.
$15K cash will probably bring it home if it's nice. Print buyer's checklist from previous posts here.
Pierce
We have a 1993 Foretravel Grand Villa 6v Detroit Diesel. 150,654 miles. 40 ' power tech diesel generator. Clean good dondition inside and out. Has some minor problems, but really needs tlc. the front itres are new and bothe house and engine batteries are new. We are asking $40,000 but would consider something else. Our address is Holdenville Oklahoma and telephone number is 405-379 5392. Give us a call if interested in discussing specifics. Lee and Odie Weatherred.........Age motivated sellers
John, please tell me more about your overheating issue and installing a side radiator. I live in Texas where it gets up to 114 degrees sometimes. I'm planning to drive to Florida to buy the 36' 1991 model this weekend if it's as nice as the seller described. Is the 1991 model narrower than later models? I couldn't find any evidence of that in my research. I thought all U300s were the same height and width but only varied in length. Am I correctly understanding that none of the air ride Foretravels have jacks and that they level themselves with the airbag suspension even while parked with the engine off? That would explain the little electric compressor in the basement. I was wondering what that was for... Sorry to be so uninformed. I'm new to motor homes and I only know what I've read on the internet and what a few of my motor home friends have told me.
Scott, Don't get in a hurry to buy a coach until you have looked at several. The later Grand Villas are wider 102" vs 96" for the 92 and prior. also the side mount radiator is much better because you can get to the back of the engine without the radiator being in the way. Unless you must have a motorhome in the next few weeks keep reading and learning about Foretravel Motor Coaches. I have a 1994 that I purchased 1n 1997 and it only had 30,000 miles on it, one owner, air conditioned / Garage kept. There are some hidden jewels out there take your time. Also I would pay a little more for a low mileage coach. ^.^d
@Scott the easy way to tell if it's a 96" or 102". If the space between the grills is very narrow it's a 96" if about 8" wide it's a 102". I can tell the difference from across a parking lot. :) Mine's a 92' and it's a 102" so not all 92' are 96". If at all possible get the 102". Without slides the 6" makes a world of difference. That 6" comes right out of the aisle where you need it the most.
I too second the side radiator. Access to the engine from the rear is very desirable. Doing greasy engine work from under the bed is a pain and a sure way to put your DW (that stands for Dear Wife since you're new to the forum) in a bad mood. Sometimes for days... Don't ask how I know.
see ya
ken
Echo Gerry. At 114 degrees, a lot of RVs get hot. At 62 mph, it takes an upgrade for my side radiator to start to get hot in warm weather. Others have complained of heating on the flat when it gets really warm outside. Some members install PVC water sprayers for the radiator to help cool on the hills. Rear radiator and 96" don't disqualify it, especially if the rest of it is nice and at $15K or less. With only you living in it, you probably won't miss the extra few inches but with the two of us and Koda, its a real plus.
Often thought it would be nice to run a couple of 1 1/2" pipes up to the front and mount an additional radiator up there. So much space goes unused in the nose and there is already a large grill just waiting for it.
Again, like Gerry says, don't be in a hurry and don't be afraid to call members if you have any questions and do go through a checklist before handing over $$. At that age, fridges, roof airs, lot of other stuff starts needing attention so make sure EVERYTHING works. I would pay a Florida member to fly or drive and take a look with you. So much to discover later.
Sure nothing wrong with either a Cummins or a Cat in a Foretravel either. The 5.9 will use less fuel than any other rig. I love my DD but could be happy with either of the above.
Pierce
Just as an additional thought regarding the addition of an auxiliary radiator, I added a 24" by 24" aluminum racing radiator purchased through eBay to the front of my 1993, U225 to help cool the rear radiator unit. All that was required was making a bracket and installing two "Ts" in the return line for the dash heater. It is a 3/4" hose. That addition reduced the coolant temperature by 10 to 15 degrees on those very hot Oklahoma summer days. I installed it behind the condenser and still got that much reduction in temperature. Remember, this was on a Grand Villa.
I also included a shutoff valve to take the aux radiator out of the heater loop in the winter.
Thought my idea was original. >:D >:D
Love the OK ingenuity. How about some photos when you get time? Nice to be able to relax instead of watching the temp gauge every 30 seconds.
Pierce
Pierce I will have to shoot some photos of Kent's OK upgrade, as I have the coach now.
I also have cleaned and will work to keep shiny the charged air cooler and the rear of the radiator that I can see. The parts between I can only guess at how clean they might be. But we have since towed after the engine detail and temps are lower now.
Do all air ride Foretravels use the airbags to level the coach when parked? None of them have jacks for leveling like other coaches? Is that what the little electric compressor in the basement is for?
So overheating issues with the 1991 model can be overcome with an auxiliary radiator, or a water misting system, or a side radiator retrofit?
The Allison transmission is durable enough for 300hp but no more?
I'm okay with a 6" narrower coach. It's still gonna be huge! (laugh)... It's just me with no wife or kids.
The seller said the dash air conditioning doesn't work currently. He said it used to leak refrigerant, possibly from an o-ring, and he didn't bother to fill it up anymore because Florida is so hot he had to run the generator and roof air while driving anyway. I'll fix the dash air because I don't want to run the generator while driving except in very hot weather.
Is anyone in the St Petersburg area willing to look at the motor home with me? I'll probably be there Monday / Tuesday next week.
Scott,
I've been a newbie/wannabee since '09 but recently purchased(march) a 1993 U300 DD6v92TA. It's a rare 36' just like Pierce's(WTB). It has issues like any coach of that age but most are minor and the overall condition is great with only 81000 miles. I was reluctant at first because of some opinions on the Detroit , but after driving it just fell in love with the sound of that 2-stroke and was surprised at the power, smoothness and handling. Reminds me of the old Greyhound buses and the price was right too! Drove it home from alabama with no problems and it sits in my driveway where I can work on it and give it the TLC she deserves. It may take a while and a lot of searching to find yours, but they are out there.
Keep reading the the forum religiously for a wealth of knowledge from some very smart and witty members who will go out of their way to
help you. In my case it took 3 years so be patient.
Sorry to take so long but this my first post and I wanted to say something meaningful for all those still looking.
Many thanks to all the members for their insights and wisdom especially Don Hay, Jimmy Freytag, Bill Chaplin, Brett Wolfe, Dave Head, Pierce Stewart, Kent Speers, and all the Detroit lovers. Hope to see all of you sometime down the road!
Jerry Maddux
1993 U300/36'WTB
Gulfport, Ms
(228) 229-5492
R Radio,
I had a four air bag 1990 ORED Gran Villa with a 300 hp 3208 Cat turbo that had jacks. I now have a eight air bag 1995 U320 with a 400 hp Cummins M11 with a 4060R transmission that is good for well above 450 hp. I now have air leveling and no jacks. I much prefer that type of leveling over leveling with jacks.
Neither of my Foretravels have had an over heating problem and both have side radiators.
Both of my Foretravels had/have working dash airs that work fine. I have topped each one every two years or so with 134A to maintain cold output air.
I also prefer the extra room and storage of the 40 foot 102 inch U320 over the 36 foot 96 inch ORED Gran Villa.
Sure would like to go to St Pete with you Monday but a skin procedure calls then, too much sun when young.
All the best in your search.
Just another bit to add: The older, narrower GVs also had a narrower wheel stance than later 102" models. Most semis on the road today are also at 102" wheel stance. This can cause a bit of "hunting" the ruts in the highway created by the high volume of semi traffic.
Our '89 GV front end was toed out 3/8" and should have been toed in 1/16". One hairy ride until we got it to FOT and had them perform their magic on alignment. Strangely enough, the front end alignment specs were right there on the glove box door when you opened it.So why would anyone set the toe-out to 3/8"??
Oshkosh mentioned that the different caster setting on the right front axle king pin was to compensate for the crown of the road. Did not remember toe in only caster. Which was on the glove box door.
Remember Old roads were more crowned
Are there any members in the St Petersburg area willing to look at this Foretravel with me on Monday or Tuesday?
Scott
(972) 522-0109
A rule of thumb is that RV to race car, toe out means a wandering vehicle. If you can't find the spec, 1/16" toe in will be a good starting point for anything that rolls. The reason they set it at 3/8" toe out is the same reason they cut the coax cable and then tried to tape it together. Good way to tell is when you look down to change radio stations, check the GPS and when you look up, you are headed a different direction, it's probably a toe issue.
I remember those eastern highways with lots of truck traffic. As you turn the steering wheel, vehicles want to stay in the slow lane grooves until they leap toward the next lane. Don't think they pay any attention to load limits there.
Pierce
Post moved to new thread, sorry for the mispost.
I strongly suggest Koni FSD's. ch less fatiquing to drive. Then again if you already have them, I am baffled. Made a world of difference in my 1997 U-270 and 2000 U-320. Made the "dead spot" in the steering wheel tiny, and i feel much more in control and less wander. then again if you already have them I am baffled.
I lived in Tucson back then so I've seen a little heat. Like I mentioned before, many other owners of the same model and year said they didn't have any overheating issues. Why me? I don't know. I used the radiator mist system for years before I decided to add the second radiator. There was never an issue on the flats even on hot days, just grades on hot days. As I understand it, one thing you do not want to do is overheat a 2-cycle Detroit: the O-rings between liner and block go and you get oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil.
My understanding is '92 is when they went to the wide body for U280/300 - forgot to mention that in my original post. '92 saw a lot of changes.
The only good thing about a rear radiator is the simplicity of the fan drive. Simple belt drive with air clutch. Side radiator will have a much larger hydraulic system to drive the fans. The only thing the hydraulic pump does on my coach is the power steering.
All Unihomes and Unicoaches (U270,280, 295, 300,& 320) are 100% air bag leveling and don't have jacks. And yes they need an aux. air compressor to keep air pressure up when parked. Mine is a 3/4hp 120VAC unit (HWH systems use a small 12 volt compressor) that runs once every 2 days. Air bag leveling is nice because you can do it anywhere: street, parking lot, etc. and it doesn't look like you're "camping". I'm very strict about being completely level for the frig.- I've had it for 11 years and the cooling unit is still good. I also will tilt the coach when I dump my tanks sometimes.
The nice thing about a 40' vs. 36' is that extra 4' is pure storage - depends on how much stuff you want to haul if it's important to you.
I agree with others about looking at lot coaches so when you do buy you really know what your getting. Sorry it took my so long to post - I'm still part of the working class.
I'm in Saint Petersburg FL now. I looked at the Foretravel today and got to drive it around the city streets a little. It's in beautiful condition and at $20,000 it's the lowest priced U300 I've found yet.
It has a 6V92TA silver version with cast aluminum valve covers that runs and sounds great, and doesn't smoke or leak. Unfortunately he's been running it on Rotella 10W40 I think. It has the rear radiator. The coach does have some problems that need to be repaired right away. At least one of the airbags is rotten and coming apart on the outside. We drove around today and it held okay. I'll look at it again tomorrow. Some of the others may be equally bad in places where I can't see. I'm told the airbags are readily available and not difficult to change.
There's a small crack in the roof between the shower skylight and the rear air conditioner. He said it's been sealed. I looked carefully inside but didn't find any evidence that water has been leaking there or anywhere else in the entire coach. The tires appear to be new, even though he said they're not. A new spare tire and matching Alcoa aluminum wheel is included along with a heavy duty hydraulic jack capable of lifting the coach to change a tire I'm told. This coach has a retarder on the transmission, which I'm told may be a rare and expensive option.
He's including the full set of owner's manuals. The engine and generator have very low hours and the entire coach appears to have very little use. It has a gas oven as well as a convection oven. It has the built in central vacuum cleaner. The cabinets and upholstery are all intact and don't appear to need any repairs at all. The carpet is even in good shape and so is the headliner and window curtains and most of the interior lights work well. The dash air conditioning doesn't work and probably has a refrigerant leak somewhere. There are some strange electrical problems that come and go, perhaps from lack of use. It appears to be mostly switches and bulbs that need to be wiggled to make a good connection and stuff like that.
The seller has been pointing out things to me that have been problems in the past and how he has taken care of these things when they come up. This is not his first Foretravel and he appears to be quite knowledgeable and helpful. There doesn't appear to be any bulkhead issue at this time. All the bolts appear to be in place. There's a little rust on the rear bulkhead but none on the front.
The seller has repaired a few things in preparation for this sale including replacing all three batteries. I looked at them and they do appear to be new. The paint is in good condition even though the back decals are noticeably faded and cracked. All it would need is new decals or perhaps even just the back part of the decals to make it look nice from a distance. The awnings appear to be intact and functioning properly, but I'll probably need one of you to give me some instructions, at least with the big side awning.
The water heater may have difficulty lighting sometimes. Perhaps the ignitor needs to be cleaned or adjusted? I'll check on that tomorrow. I also need to check the rear air conditioner. He only ran the front one today. It probably works though or else he would have told me. He's been pointing out much smaller problems than that. I drove the coach around the city a little and it's very quiet with no squeaks or rattles. It's much quieter than my car in fact and it rides super smooth, which I'm sure all of you knew, but it surprised me as a newbie. I'm glad it's not the newer wide body coach and I'm glad it's the 36' version...
I think I'm gonna buy this U300 tomorrow morning and drive it to Dallas. The problems seem to be well worth dealing with for a coach this nice at this price. I'm gonna sleep on it tonight cuz I'm exhausted after driving down here... What will happen if the coach blows an airbag on the highway driving to Dallas? I'll still be able to drive it carefully to a truck service station won't I? The airbag I saw was rotten is in the extreme left rear. The others have weather cracks but nowhere near as bad. Thanks so much for your help my friends.
Scott
Scott,
Just look for the DOT code to see how old the tires are. It should be a 4 digit number and will be on one side of the tire on the sidewall, first 2 digits are the week, second 2 digits are the year. For example 1610 would be the 16th week of 2010.
Once tires are approximately 5 years old, they should be inspected by a professional "because so much is riding on your tires".
Good luck "sleeping" on it tonight - I'd have insomnia, brain racing trying to process all the details :)
Michelle
Scott, I'm pretty sure that it's not a U300 - to my knowledge ALL U300's are 40', I looked at his add; "1991 FORETRAVEL U300 Grandvilla Unihome, in ST PETERSBURG, FL 33702" and the coach appears to be in good condition by looks. I would be skeptical as to the crack in the roof! Foretravel roofs just don't crack something had to give. The air bag issue could be a problem, however they are 14 plys or more and built to withstand overloads. It should be replaced but you should be able to get it home if the coach is not fully loaded. Does this coach have the 8 air bag suspension? I see his asking price was $ 19,900.00 I would shoot him an offer of less, because of the work needed and the market today. (you could just ask him what's the bottom line?)P.S. I would get that oil out of that engine before I drive it back to TX or anywhere else... It will spin a bearing, Detroit recommends straight 40 or 50 weight oil in their two cycle engines. Delo or Rotella would work.
Q. What oil should I use, and do the two strokes tolerate synthetic oil?
A. Detroit two cycles demand the right oil if you expect them to last.
straight weight oil is a must.
I understand that Chevron Delo 100 is first choice with Shell Rotella T a very close second. Personally I use Shell Rotella T SAE40.
Scott,
First, make sure this is a 9 liter 6V-92TA two cycle Detroit, NOT a 8.2 V8 4 cycle Detroit Diesel. Worth THOUSANDS less if it is. Have someone check if there is ANY doubt. My U300 is also a 36 footer but don't know about models for your year.
Crack on the roof, worn bags, non working air and outside storage with bad decals should bring the price down. Almost no one gets asking price on a 21 year old motorhome. Roof cracks are a sign of sun damage so expect further cracks soon in hot Texas weather without roof work. A real issue when talking price.
That was the same bag that went on ours. Some looked terrible when we bought it but lasted 2 years. Super easy to change once you have the coach SAFELY jacked up and BLOCKED. Only special tool needed is a 1 1/8" box end wrench that has been cut to about 6 inches long. Slide a short piece of pipe down it, use it like a regular wrench and off she comes. It's the nut that goes on the stud with the air supply line into it. Only other tools are several 1/2" medium long extensions to remove the 3/4" nuts on the bottom of the air bags while lying on the ground. No need to remove the tire as once the bag nuts are off, it's a two minute job to R&R it. Once the old bag is off, put your knee on the new one to compress it, put the vinyl cap back on so air can't get back in and stick it in place. I have R&R photos so email and I will send them. Bag is about $157 delivered. I bought three so I would have spares. Cracked bags will probably leak a bit before it becomes undriveable but could go out suddenly. If the air pressure builds to pop-off and then down to the compressor kick in in 3 to 5 minutes while driving without using the brakes, spray the bags with water/soap solution.
Takes only a few miles to get used to 102 inches. A non-issue.
Rotella multi is not the end of the world but change to Delo 100 SAE 40 (or 50) before heading home.
Have the owner drive is some distance so you can see it does not heat, no sticking thermostat, etc. Check calipers for sticking after long storage. Don't want to find out on the freeway.
Don't idle it for any length of time. Shut it down.
Pierce
One other point, my 93 U300 has a retarder button but it really is to activate the two stage Jake Brake. To my knowledge, Allison did not offer a transmission retarder for our 4 speed transmission and the 6V92, 350 hp engine had too much torque for the 6 speed that would accommodate the Retarder.
The cracks in the roof starting at the openings such as the sky light were not unheardoff in the 90'S Grand Villas. To avoid long term water problems the should be reglassed not just patched or caulked.
As for the retarder, get under the coach and read the data plate. If it has an R at the end (like B500R, MT647R) then there is a trans retarder. Also the trans will have a separate rounded section extension between the main body of the trans and the output shaft with large hoses going to it.
Sounds like a nice unit at a decent price. I would make a side trip to Nac to have it looked over if MOT or FOT could fit you in.
I'm having trouble sleeping even though I'm completely exhausted! (laugh)... so I'm back on here.
The tires don't bother me at all. If he had told me they were new I'd believe him. They look that good, and he's giving me a new spare mounted on a new matching Alcoa wheel.
I think I'll ask at some truck stops along the way and if I find one that has Delo 100 in straight 40 weight I'll have them change the oil. I believe he's giving me some new oil filters and a bunch of Rotella 10W40. I'll keep the Rotella for the generator. That's probably the correct oil for it and it'll be a lifetime supply for that little engine.
I'm absolutely sure it's a silver 6V92TA. That's the major selling point for me. I work with Detroit Diesels every day and I really like 2 stroke diesels.
I checked carefully for leaks and double checked the area near the crack but I see no evidence of leaking. I'll show the crack to someone who knows about this stuff as soon as possible. I doubt it's leaking now but I don't want it to start leaking later.
The retarder is not a selling point for me. I had to look it up to find out what it was because I'd never even heard of it before.
I think I'm gonna go for it in the morning and buy this coach. I'm thinking if I blow an airbag I'll still be able to limp to a truck service station for repairs won't I? Do truck shops keep those air bags in stock? Do I have to close an air valve to stop the leak or will the system do that automatically to save the air brakes? Thanks so much for your help my friends.
RRadio
Tires age on an RV not by tread wear, but UV and environmental stress, followed by overloading due to low air pressure. Good looking tires can be just that, or bombs waiting to go off. 5 years or less in age is fine, I would easily go 10 years on the rear tires on an older coach (assuming I had a tire inspection by someone who knew his stuff). You won't want old tires, no matter how much the tread, since new tires are about $600+ each, so six tires is a lot of $$$ compared to the value of the coach. Other places to spend money include:
- Leaks in plumbing and leaks/delaminations anywhere
- generator, but if diesel, they are pretty bulletproof. Fuel lines that age seem to cause more problems than engies/gennies
Airbags are $200 each or less plus install, and I think and generally available. Search the forum and you will find info on bag replacement and finding the parts. If you can't sleep, search on refrigerators, batteries and tires, will keep you up most of the night, but you will learn a LOT! FT's are great machines, but if it is old, and if it ha been sitting, you will spend a bit to get it all working. They seem to like being used more than sitting, so once you get it all working, keep using it and it will probably serve you well.
My advice
- know the date codes on the tires,
- Offer what you can afford, but assue you will spend $5,000 first year in repairs plus any tires and batteries you may need. You may need more or less, just depends
- Factor the repairs into your price and budget, don't be affraid to offer what you can afford and makes sense to you.
Good luck!
You may or may not be able to limp to a service station. If the tires start to hit on the top of the wheel well, stop. You can pull the air hose off the top of the air bag and install a threaded fitting and a cap or unscrewing the 90 degree fitting where the black hose goes in and putting a cap on the end. Can't remember the exact size but any ACE hardware store will have both in stock. Other option would to be squeezing the line with a pair of vice grips. Would have to change it later because of possible damage. Others have had luck limping along on the remaining air bag after closing off the line but I could not get my tires to clear the wheel well so jacked it and changed it where it was.
If it's holding air now it will probably make the trip OK. Several different suppliers have the bags in stock now and can overnight if necessary. Source and price in the Foretravel tech section.
Rotella 40 or other SAE 40 would be fine for the trip if you can't find Delo 100. Any Chevron distributor or marine supplier should have lots of it. Almost 75% of the sport fishing boats have the 6V-92TA or other DD two cycle in them so Delo 100 very common at marine docks.
Pierce
Count on replacing all 8 air bags. Two years ago I replace the ones on the rear axle and just a month ago I replace the ones on the front axle. Found a place on-line at $150/ea including shipping. I removed the fenders and it made them easy to get to.
My '91 U300 does have a 4 speed with a retarder, model MBT-648 (no R) but the '91 is only 300hp. '92 is when they went to 350hp and the 700 series tranny - maybe those don't come with retarders.
It sounds like a solid coach if you think the engine is OK and you haven't seen any bad rust in the bulkhead area or anywhere else. It's hard for me to believe what a great coach you can get for $20k. Yesterday we just arrived in San Diego in our '91 traveling 925 miles from Boise, ID with no problems, smooth ride and managed 9 mpg on the highway and a great view sitting up high on the Unihome Grand Villas - a little scary a first but you'll come to enjoy it later. Use your mirrors to get centered in your lane!
Best wishes to you.
Don't leave us hanging Scott.
Are you on the way home with it ??
Bring it by and let Dave & I look at it!!!
bill
I'm halfway home now and I can't find straight 40 weight oil anywhere. I'm sitting here at a TA / Petro truck service center now. The manager called all over the place and only found 3 gallons, which isn't enough of course. He even called ahead to the next location down the road and that manager can't get it either. They both said almost all the Detroits they service are running 15W40 and doing just fine. They said I have outdated information. I just added a gallon of Rotella 15W40 and I guess I'll continue on to Dallas and change the oil there after I find straight 40 weight. I know Stewart Stevenson has it.
The tires are fine and the air bags have held up okay so far. There may possibly be a tiny pinhole in the radiator but it's not leaking whenever I go looking for it. I can see some antifreeze spots around one certain area. There's still plenty in the radiator and the engine is running cool. I'm watching the gauges of course.
Thanks for your help and prayers my friends... (smile)
Bars leak is your friend - Foretravel allows a certain amount as a one time treatment - some had had to use more the the allocated amount and still had good reuslts.
Good luck!
call me when you get home. I'll have the number where I bought 10 gallons. Only comes in Gallon's now. Could not get quarts for adding.
I know for a fact that you can get Delo 100, 40W from Orielly's. Just bought some at $12.99 per gallon but they had to order it from the warehouse. You have to make sure the send Delo 100. I have gone to pick it up and found that the warehouse sent Delo 400. I sent it back. I think that Delo 400 may be OK since I saw Foretravel filling a U300 with it today in their shop. But I will still use Delo 100, 40W because I know it's OK and I am told the engine will use less oil when using Delo 100.
I'm confident that you will enjoy your new ride. I know I love my U300. Keep us informed on your adventurers.
Here is the link to the official Chevron bulletin on Delo 400 and 100. Read the last paragraph on the first page continuing on the second page: Delo 400 (http://www.samsmarine.com/Manuals/Chevron/Chevron/Delo%20400.htm)
The following boat discussion group is more informative on just why to avoid Delo 400 and other high ash content oils: DD 6-71 TIBs and Delo 100 vs Delo 400 lube oil. - Page 3 (http://www.samsmarine.com/forums/showthread.php?2360-DD-6-71-TIBs-and-Delo-100-vs-Delo-400-lube-oil./page3)
Pierce
Well done, Pierce. This leaves no doubt as to which oil spec should be used on the 2 stroke Detroit.
Ata- boy to you!
Peter
That says it plain and simple, Delo 100 for the 6V92 if you want it to last for two more decades.
Scott,
Congratulations on your purchase of a U300. I hope your trip home will be trouble free and a pleasant experience as mine was in march. I only had to travel about 250 miles and I was a little nervous the first time.
Pierce,
Thanks for the valuable info on the oil that should be used in our DD6v92. I'm not sure what oil is in mine now but I will find out from the PO
and make sure Delo 100 goes in there from now on. There also is a Detroit service center here and I will find out what they recommend.
My new / old Foretravel made it back to Plano TX. The 6V92 used about 1 gallon of oil for the 1,100 mile journey. It has 72,000 miles on it now. The Onan diesel genset ran much of the trip because the dash air conditioning isn't working so I ran the roof air. I'll figure out the fuel efficiency as soon as I fill up the tank. I kept track of the miles. I'm sure the genset will reduce fuel efficiency. The radiator does leak, but it's a tiny leak that probably only amounts to about a gallon every 1,000 miles or so. I'll check into that more when I get the oil changed and the entire chassis serviced, possibly at Stewart Stevenson here in Dallas unless some of you have better suggestions. The tires did fine. The airbags seem to be okay but the coach wasn't level this morning for some reason. It was sagging to the right rear. The airbag I thought was bad is on the left rear so go figure. It's parked now and plugged in to electric power at a campground and it's level. I didn't make any adjustments to level it out. I'm told this 1991 model U300 doesn't level itself automatically, so my campsite must be perfectly level or something. After I got all the way back here and got a campsite the engine died on a street here in Plano. The red warning light to the upper right of the transmission selector panel came on. I coasted over to the right lane, put the transmission in neutral, turned the ignition key off for a moment, then back on again, waited the usual few seconds before starting a diesel, and then started the engine right up again. I had rolled to a complete stop by then. I tested it for a moment to see if it was going to stay running, it did and I drove it back to the campsite. The seller mentioned something about this as one of the weird electrical problems that comes and goes. I'll call him and see what he says. Apparently the Allison transmission has a rear pump, like the Aluminum Powerglide transmission in my old Chevrolet, because the engine kept turning even though it wasn't running. Do all Allisons have a rear pump or is it just because this one has the retarder on it? I need to fix a bunch of light bulbs, including the right front turn signal, then I need to get it inspected, pay the taxes on it, get it registered, and mail the Florida license plate back to the seller. It was really nice of him to allow that. I only have to stand in line at the DMV in one state instead of two... and thanks so much for all your help my friends. I really appreciate you... :)
Scott,
So far so good. Now you can fix what you know how to, and have the professionals fix the stuff you don't. This is part of that "repair/upgrade" budget we talk about. This expenditure will make your ownership experience much better. Keep learning about your coach, and don't let just anyone work on it. If it were me, I take it to the mothership or a very good shop for the stuff you can't do.
Peter
Scott,
Congratulations again on you new U300 and your trip home without incident. Nice to have you new home in it's campground site.
Biggest tip I can give is to get really familiar with all the information available on this site. The search feature will find the answer to almost any problem that members have come across. Tech section is great for how to do it as well as part numbers.
Jerry,
Very welcome.
Detroit Diesel service center should have the latest brand numbers on ultra low ash content 40 (50) weight oils. They are CF-2, SAE 40, Sulfated Ash 1.0% max, Alkalinity (ASTM D 2896) 7.0 Min Not all CF-2 oils meet all these specs that Detroit wants.
A lot of logging trucks in our area so when I call, the Chevron distributor just throws on a few cases of 100 when they come up the hill from Sacramento.
Pierce
Congrats on a safe journey home!
The tax office here in TX will also require certified weights to determine your registration fee. If you don't already have something from the seller showing weights, if there's a vehicle weight plate in your coach that shows VIN number and unladen weight (UVW) they might accept a photo of that. If not, unload as much possible (including tanks) and find a truck scale (like CAT) that will give you a weight slip.
Michelle
...I forgot to mention that the Allison transmission hunts up and down between 3rd and 4th gear on some hills when on cruise control. If I step on the accelerator it will choose a gear and stay in that gear though. It seems to be a problem that only happens when it's on cruise control, which was most of this trip. It never happens when I'm using the accelerator pedal.
Hunting between gears on a grade is REALLY hard on any transmission. Use the gear selector to lock the transmission in the lower gear until the grade allows for it to stay in the higher gear.
I have just a few comments that might help:
1. Oil burn: I saw this too when I once put multi-grade in and didn't know better. It now burns none to very little. Also, never overfill crank case- engine will just burn it off. I fill mine to the mid point of "add" and "full" on the stick and check once every drive day.
2. I figure generator burns about a gallon per hour - you can keep track for your mileage by using the generator hour meter.
3. Level air leak: most likely the "ride height valves" - originals have plastic housing that eventually crack - I just replaced mine with all metal versions - about $150/ea (1 on front axle in middle, 1 on right rear axle, 1 on left rear axle): the rears are visible from the access door right behind the rear wheels.
4. Coach leveling is not automatic, but manual. There are 3 levers on the floor to the left of the drivers seat. The levers are connected to cables that connect the the ride height valves mentioned in #3. They "trick" the valves into adding or exhausting air out of the air bags by rotating the valve. Middle lever is for front axle, left is for the left rear, right is for the right rear - think of the coach as a 3 legged stool. Owners manual has procedure but once you understand what they do it's quite simple. The the most part it's:
move the lever forward = lowers air bag
lever back = raises air bag
(Levers stay at the position you moved them to)
Travel position is all levers in the center (detent) position and dash light "air level" will go out. You do need to watch that the front air bags don't go to the extreme high or low position such that the whole coach gets twisted. Can cause the windshield to break it's seal or pop a corner out. On my coach I can hear the front start to twist by the creaking sounds around the dash.
5. Cruise control hunting: mine does that too. I just put some peddle into for a little while to help it decide.
6. Sudden engine shut down: red light on tranny control is a result of "engine stop" condition. Tranny is telling you it's not getting lubrication while the coach is still rolling. The DDEC will store what errors caused the shut down. My guess is it's the coolant level. There's a sensor in the top of the radiator (single wire attached) that's a little too high in my opinion so just a little bit low in the sight glass and it can trigger an engine shut down - especially if coach is tilted and level changes at sensor. Lift top of dash (padded top hinges up) and there are two toggle switches: "trans" and "engine". Flip "engine" one and then turn ignition on. The dash "check engine" light will flash a code. You have count the flashes to get the two digit code. Owners manual should have this information what each code is.
Hope this helps.
Congrats!
I just ordered Delo 100 in straight 40 weight at O'Reilly Auto Parts. They don't have it in stock but they can get it delivered from their warehouse the same day. You have to pay for it in advance when you order it because they don't normally stock it in the store... They do have some straight 40 and straight 30 Delo 400 in stock however, but I doubt it's intended for 2 stroke diesels so I didn't buy it.
Our U300 does the same thing at speeds between 55 and 60 mph when it encounters a hill. We therefore try to stay over 60 or under 55 in third gear, usually over 60. Hope that helps.
Not a cure for yours but as everyone complained about this Allison made a 700 series trans with a five speed to stop the hunting that drove everyone crazy.
First seen in a bluebird back then...
Shame Allison did not release the six speed earlier as the design was done. But the Allison man told me that they had just redone to tooling to make the 600 and 700 series trans so they put the World class trans introduction back many years as they had no competition so no hurry. Late 80's
Bob
I always had a theory they came out with the 6 speeds because the national 55 mph speed limit was lifted...now I know otherwise.
Bob,
We have the Allison 746 four speed in our U300. I seems as if it were a five speed as it shifts into lockup half way through second gear so you really have two second gears. I looked twice when we bought ours but then noticed the tach and speedo followed each other exactly once it made the second gear change to lockup. Sometimes I stop and then start up again before heading down a really steep switchback type grade so I am exactly sure what gear I have with the Jake brake on.
The only work around is to just back off the throttle and shift to third on the long grades. EZ on the transmission this way and lets me look at the radio or GPS on the way up hill.
Pierce
Even the 4000 will hunt under certain conditions, the simple answer is select a lower gear. If it is a 4 speed, just select 3rd, on a 6 speed, select 5th.
Works for me like Pierce stated.
Dave M