So I live in Arizona and its hot and getting hotter. I park my coach under cover and I have a 30amp outlet next to my coach. Just across from my coach is a small trailer that has a make shift building on it, some kind of portable office. This rig has a small window a/c unit and it is running all the time. I guess the owner needs to keep something cool inside. So this has me thinking that maybe I could set one of my a/c units to say 85degrees and keep my coach from getting to darn hot inside. So my question is, is this wise? Will I wear out the a/c unit by doing this?
So bad idea/good idea?
On another note but related. Two weeks ago we took a weekend trip up north and stayed in a park that had full hookups. I was an older park and in the afternoons each day (we were there 4 days) the power would drop off for an hour or two each day. So I would just turn on the generator and run the a/c's, the temps were in the 80's. We also had the Aquhot running on the 120V AC. With all this going on I would loose power from the generator and it would shift to the inverter, no a/c. I found the breaker on the front of the gen had tripped. after a couple of times I figured out that if I shut off the Aquhot it would not trip the breaker. I was under the impression that we could run everything with the gen. Do you think I have a problem?
So any help/advice would be great.
Thanks, David
My mechanic buddy mentioned that the breakers get hot and old they open at too low of a load. He puts bigger ones in so you get the actual rating the gen was capable of.
No I don't know the details. Sorry. Future answer
Hmmm, that's interesting.
I would be Leary of putting breakers in that are not rated for that particular load! Could be a potential fire!
Vincent my buddy was the top foretravel tech in ca for twenty years and for country coach at the same time for the last five years of that time. The breakers on any old Rv used hard wear and pop off early. He said the hot compartment the gen is in heats the breakers in desert weather and they will trip with a below rating load versus in a winter use.
We are in limon, Colorado with your and Betty's old coach. 2,000 miles so far.
Right front tire was 90. Left front was 100psi. Now both are 105 and the "dead" spot in the steering is very tiny and no counter steer is necessary other than road crown and wind.
Left inner dual was 85 the other three were 95. All are 95.
All the tires need to have the same "squish" look to them. Front and rear in my experience.
House batteries are marginal but I know you hooked this coach up so you would never had noticed. One gallon of water between the three in Kansas.
I hit 80 down hill over canon and hit the brakes hard and got the wheels hot enough for the inner wheel bearing seal to leak dry by the time we got to lenwood.
Repair place in Barstow 4 miles away got us on the road again by 5 pm the next day.
What a road machine! The xtarder is to write home to mom about.
Hardly moves when the wind blows hard and/or trucks pass the other way.
9+ mpg at 65. Almost 10. Amazing. I laugh every time I am outside and look at this huge coach. Most live able coach I have had the pleasure to use more or less own.
Thanks, bob
David, First on the A/C issue, I keep my A/C on at 75 during the summer, no issues, if/when the A/C goes bad, it will be fixed or replaced.
As for the breaker on the generator, it sure sounds like the circuit breaker is weak or the Aqua Hot is drawing way too much current. My understanding is the electric element is a 1500 watt, that is 12.5 amps. I could be wrong on the size of the element, either way I have never had an issue with any breaker at anytime. Point is, the breaker on the A-H should trip long before the breaker on the genset.
Dave M
It sounds like the main breakers on the generator are tired. I suggest replacing them with new units of the proper (original) rating. It is a relatively cheap and easy repair. If you are not familiar with working on electrical stuff, get help. Be safe!
Yes, I would run the air conditioners.
We have owned our coach two years. It was stored inside before we bought it. I was told remained hooked up with all system operating year round. When it was not traveling, it was the owners "man cave" at his country ranch. We park it outside. It is hooked to 50A circuit, and most systems remain on year round. We set thermostats at about 86F for summer and about 45F for winter. It seems to me that things seem to work better if the environment is moderated and systems are exercised.
If we don't travel for a month, I will take it for a drive. I drive on the highway long enough to bring the engine and transmission to full operational temperature. I exercise the generator, air conditioners, furnaces, horns, mirror adjusters, water heater, dash air, windshield wipers, faucets, seat adjusters, leveling system, etc.
This is exactly what I plan to do, and I can change a breaker no problem. I will also use my amp clamp and check the amperage to the breaker with everything running, that should tell me what I need to know.
About running the a/c full time, that is just what I was hoping to hear. I think I will turn up the temp a degree or two though.
Thanks
I was going to recommend an ammeter, glad you already have one! In my Foretravel binder that came with the coach it shows the expected loads of everything in the schematics. That might be a good reference to see if anything is drawing more than it should. Ditto everyone on replacing the breaker with equal current rating and no higher, that is how fires are started. By the way, if everything looks normal, you might want to meter the neutral. As others have mentioned in other threads, if the generator is wired for 120V only, than the neutral must carry the sum of the two hot legs, but there is no breaker on the neutral anywhere. Let us know how it works out.
I leave my A/Cs on always, I also try to remember to leave the pantry door open so things don't melt. We use ours often and like to keep stuff in it for quick departures.....
Thanks for all the replies, I will need to get into the manuals and see what the amp draw's are. Also it looks like I will need to roll out the gen to get to the breakers, I'm hoping that will be easy enough, but I haven't done it before. We are having a bit of a heat wave right now, our normal temps should be in the low/mid 90's but were about 10 degrees hotter right now. Yeah summer!
Just a little update on this. I was looking in my manual and there is a list of the systems and the amp's they use. Just a little math tells me that I can't run the Aqua Hot on the 120v setting and both A/C's at the same time. The refrigerator uses 2.7amps each A/C uses 16amps and the Aqua Hot when on 120v setting uses 16.6 = 51amps with a 45amp breaker. Remember we were hooked up to shore power and I did not think to switch the refer and the Aqua Hot off of their A/C voltage settings. So lesson learned.
I've been running the A/C for a couple of days now and I think I will continue to do so for the summer. I only have a 30amp connection so I can only run one at a time. I think I'll switch back and forth front to rear every couple of days in order to exercise both of them. I also have a small desk top fan that I will keep running and place it in whichever space does not have the A/C on. I think this will work well for me, but I'm open to suggestions or advice.
Thanks David
David,
Keep in mind - 50 amp shore hookup = 100 amps total. There are 2 hot lines, each at 50 amps. You should be able to run both A/C's and the Aquahot on a 50 amp hookup. On a 30 amp hookup, choose 1 A/C or the Aquahot (or the Splendide on dry OR a high-wattage hair dryer). Of course all of this depends on good wiring/supply at your hookup.
Michelle
Dave,
Michelle is absolutely correct. I am puzzled by your statement: "51amps with a 45amp breaker".
What 45 amp breaker are you talking about.
Your shore power (50 amp) has two main breakers-- EACH 50 amp.
Yes, "RV Math" is peculiar: 30 amp gives you 30 amps, 50 amps gives you 100 amps.
A quick look at the CG outlet breakers on a 50 amp outlet will show TWO 50 amp breakers pined together (duplex 50 amp).
The generator will have two 45A breakers. One A/C unit will be on each breaker. The full 51A load will be on the neutral if the generator is wired as it came from the factory. The loads will be distributed between the 45A "hot side" breakers. You should be able to run both A/C units from the generator at the same time. You can operate both A/C units at the same time from a proper 50A RV shore power pedestal. You can only run one at a time from a 30A source.
Okay now I see. I have two 45amp breakers on the front of my 10K gen. If you have the 12K you would have 2 50amp breakers. So I think I will go ahead and swap out the breakers for new one's and see what's up. Thanks for setting me straight on this.
Dave, I park my coach under a carport cover here in central Fla(lots of humitidy), and have gone the leave every thing on route 50A service, and watch it ware the electric meter and my wallet out, I quit that 5 years ago. although we use our coach a couple of times a mo., we just leave the shades down a couple of windows cracked, and the bathroom vent open. No mold, mildew, or funkey smells, and if we around the house for the weekend I'll open it up.
After rereading WD A-2700.07 in my owners manual, it appears from genset to transfer switch is a 6/3G cable, this is exact same as from the 50 amp shoreline, I does appear one item could trip one breaker on genset. Now the question would be: Does it trip quickly or is there a time period before tripping? If quick, that would look more like a shorted something, if after a time, the breaker could be weak or the load exceeds the breaker rating. Most breakers are called ThermoMagnetic, so either a short or a heating condition will trip it.
Love this stuff.
Dave M
Yup, it was a slow trip. When we would loose shore power I would start up the gen with all the things running and it would go for 10 minutes or so each time. This happened twice before I got the idea that something was wrong and I need to change something. Now I need to figure out how to pull the gen out form it's bay. I looked in the manual and I saw nothing about how to do it. It looks somewhat straight forward,but there is a label on it that says you must disconnect the "flexible exhaust" before pulling. Unless I can get the breakers out without pulling the whole gen. It looks like I have a project for Sunday.
You will need to disconnect the exhaust under/behind the genset, then it can be slid out far enough I feel. I Never replaced a breaker, so not sure just how far it needs to come out front.
I bet you can do it. Also keep eye on the fuel line as you slide it forward.
Dave M
Also, I guess I should mention that the breakers are rated at 80%, meaning the 45 amp will overheat and trip with a 36 Amp resistive load over a long period meaning about 18 hrs. Just beware of loading it to 45 amp for any period of time