I know this is really a basic question, but I am new to our GV and RV's. It has the 3 way refer (with an auto or manual setting), and I was wondering if 12V or LP was the preferred way on the road?
Thanks in advance....
Propane has more BTU's of cooling (sounds funny, but true) than the 12 VDC element. At best, the 12 VDC element will maintain temperature. If that is enough, use 12 VDC. If not, switch to propane.
Note: Because of poor cooling, the 12 VDC elements has been eliminated from all newer absorption refrigerators.
Thanks,
I prefere to use LP but was wondering if there was any chance of it blowing out when traveling?
In the summer we run the ACs so the generator is on and it is on electric. If it is not too hot I will just run the dash air and propane. I do not have 12 volt on this coach but it was not as strong as the electric or propane. I have driven 300K miles and it never blew out even with huge winds that caused me to stop driving.
I used to travel with it on propane but am sure here in Canada it is illegal if I am not mistaken, and when on ferries etc tanks have to be shut down. Do not worry anymore on that issue.
John H
John,
Propane off while on ferries, in tunnels, and while fueling, yes. But would like to see any link to it being illegal to drive with refrigerator on propane in Canada.
Thanks again.... learned some new stuff!
Brett, looks like you could be right regarding the use while driving in Canada. I maybe figured that as you cannot go thru tunnels etc etc without turning it off you may as well leave it off.
John h
We normally use propane for the refrigerator while underway. And we have had it blow out in a strong cross wind. Another alternative is to use the inverter to run the frig while underway. I talked to a person here at the Four Corners Rally that just installed an electric refrigerator and that is what he does. I checked the manual for the Dometic frig we have (AC/propane) and it doesn't give the amp draw. Does anyone do this (i.e., use their inverter to run the frig while underway).
So what if it blows out? It re-lites. 12 V is free and is only on with the ignition switch.
When the propane flame blows out a "check" light comes on. Ours does not relight by itself. One has to re-select "gas."
Question.....A number of Dometic refrigerators in FT coaches have failed recently. Were these failures in the "gas" mechanism or in the refrigerator overall? In other words, if one avoided using propane, would the refrigerator likely last longer?
George, The killer for Absorption reefers is corrosion. The piping is enclosed in insulation and condensation wets the insulation as reefer is turned on and then turned off. The damp eventually corrodes the piping from the outside in and then the refrigerant leaks out and you smell ammonia. I have heard that leaving the reefer on all the time might extend the life4 but I have never seen and documentation.
Gary B
They fail because they are old, operated out of level or both. Here is a good read for the reasons: Why They Fail (http://www.gasrefrigeration.net/Why%20they%20fail.htm)
Pierce
I spoke to David Force of RV Cooling Unit Warehouse whom I consider the most knowledgeable RV Fridge guy I've found. He states that the most common problem other than complete failure due to a leak or chemical lockup is bad heating elements. If the cooling unit behind the outside door doesn't show a lot of rust or signs of leaking and fridge is just not cooling as it should, turn off all power and gas to the fridge, disconnect the electric heating elements from the board, there are usually two, and check them for continuity. It there is not continuity in one, replace it. If one has much higher resistance than the other, replace that one. The cost is usually under $100. If the fridge doesn't work well on gas, make sure the flew (chimney) is clean and open, then pull out the burner and clean the gas orifice. If that doesn't work, replace the orifice (jet) with the correct size.
If none of the above fixes the problem, then you may need to replace the entire cooling unit but only do that if the condition of the rest of the fridge is in good shape and the seals are good. The old Dometics can go for twenty or thirty years or more if taken care of.
Overloading is the most common reason for under cooling.
Kent
Thanks for the great info. It's always good to know how to trouble shoot something like these refers before giving up and just buying a new one. That being said, I hope our last a very long time, very important to have chilly cold beers!
Traveling with the refer on propane worked out perfect for us......
We have found that our fridge works better on gas than on electricity. If I want my beer really cold, I cool it with gas.
George Hatfield, I'm thinking you have problems which may be serious down the road. It should re-light. This from Dometic website :
When the system chooses LP gas operation, the flame failure
device is automatically opened, allowing the gas to flow to the
burner. At the same time, the electronic igniter is energized.
After initial installation, servicing, or changing gas cylinders
etc., the gas pipes may contain some air that should be allowed
to escape by briefly turning on the refrigerator or other appliances.
This will ensure that the flame lights immediately.
If the flame goes out (by gust of wind etc.), the reigniter will
automatically relight the flame.