Well the day started out trying to fix an electrical issue that looked like Isolator problem and after removing start batteries/cleaning and cleaning and coating cables and terminal connections, that one seems history now as she cranks up good and fast again after 2 days of slower and slower cranking, so much that I had to use boost to get it going. NOW it looks like it does not gewt enough fuel at first but once going runs fine and no hiccups on our journey home from Wyoming. I am replacing the filters but a comment came my way that look for a possible lift pump issue!! Has anyone had this problem and if so what is the cure (supposing the new filters do not fix it). It is a cummins 350 ISC.
Look forward to any suggestions or?
John H
The gaskets/o-rings in the original lift pump are known to be incompatible with the ULS fuel, and will lead to lift pump leaking. Apparently the symptom of this is usually an external leak from the lift pump (we had ours replaced at a Cummins dealer when the tech noticed a drip), but he said there can be internal leaking also, which would result in not building enough pressure for easy starting. Once the engine is going, the injection pump takes over and the lift pump isn't a problem (unless air is being sucked in...
Probably a good idea to replace the lift pump (about $300, as I recall) if changing the filters doesn't solve your problem.
Thanks Dave for that info. I took the primary filter off to replace and noticed a slimy black rubbery like thing on the top of this filter and pulled it off!! Wyatt S reckons it looks like Algae by my description and if so will need to get rid of it all of course. Have you or anyone else got an idea on that issue.
John
John,
You will need a BIOCIDE such as this: BIOBOR Biobor Jf 16 oz. Microbicide at West Marine (http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=21835&catalogId=10001&langId=-1&storeId=11151&storeNum=50366&subdeptNum=50396&classNum=50399#.T9oNK8XEHIU)
And of course, a couple of changes of filters as the biocide kills the bugs and their dead bodies accumulate in the filters.
Another option, particularly if in an area with diesel boats is to hire a "Fuel Polisher" to come and clean the fuel/tank.
Brett
John,
Have been through lots of times with customer's cars and at sea. You may have picked some up in Mexico where the conditions are ideal for growth. Lots of humidity with resulting condensation in either the station tank, your tank or both. Parked next to the ocean in Sayulita with a partial tank may have been the source of the water with the algae arriving at a later time.
Algae grows nicely in the interface between the fuel and the water in your tank. In the old days, we would buy a quart of the algae killer and after one treatment and a couple of filter changes, that would be it. We were warned not to dump any of the fungicide down the sink as one quart was enough to put the sewer plant out of business. Now days, the stuff is watered (bad choice of words?) down a bit but will still do the trick with regular use. After you add the biocide and change filters, you might use the fuel in the tank until it gets toward the bottom, raise the driver's side a little and then look down in the tank with a mirror and led light. You will be able to see any water and algae as they will collect at the low point, in this case, right below the filler cap. My U300 tank holds 150 gallons and each inch of fuel up from the bottom equals exactly 6.0 gallons with the rig level. You can then use a hand pump to remove any water you see at the bottom. Look for any algae at the same time. Algae also like fuel gauge senders but it sounds like you caught it early so probably not a problem.
When changing filters, I like to fill the filters almost to the top and then install leaving them a couple of turns from seating the gaskets. I then pump fuel with my hand pump (or electric if you have one) until the fuel runs out each filter and then tighten them so no air gets trapped. Your Cummins may be quite sensitive to any air in the system when you try to restart after the change.
After killing the algae, the dead stuff will still clog filters so make sure to carry several spares with you. Since a diesel uses only a small portion of the fuel it pumps from the tank with the rest returning to the tank via the return line, it will filter all the fuel in the tank in fairly short time. The less fuel in the tank, the quicker the fuel will be completely filtered.
Continue to use the fungicide and you should be in good shape.
Pierce
Thanks for these ideas. This morning I decided to cut open the primary filter to have a look. Yes there was a fair bit of black crud (I gather Algae) at the top and bottom, so that made my mind up. I gathered a pile of plastic 20litre pails and pumped out the fuel. Surprise, after sucking it bone dry none in there now and no water. I made sure I whent around the whole tank base with the suction hose. So here I am with 200 litres of fuel and it starts raining!!! Luckily it was not too much but managed to cover all the fuel with a sheet of ply. So I take off the secondary filter which for me is tough on my back, and find it "wet" with fuel half way down and there has been some fuel sprayed on the pan and hoses nearby. Once off I see why. That filter has obviously not been changed for a long time as it was rusty on the side and there has been some chaffing from pipes that have caused a small pin hole which obviously is most probably my problem!! (see photo below)I stuck a fine pin in the hole and the thing opened up to what it is in the picture so the wall is worn thruogh and sucking air. So I decide to pump the fuel back in the tank as I do not see any reason to clean it as it is clean and ordered the extra filters to replace. Found out that the primary one of Fleetguard has been replaced with another in 2009 (website). This is the equal to Racor R90P(with plastic sight dish) which I did not have as I had the solid container with drain tap. The new # for Fleetguard 19532 is FS19932. So now I will go back to one of our local Diesel shops that I paid to replace all filters etc 2 yrs ago and see what they say about not changing that one!! Pic at bottom shows the black "slime" in the filter and the other one the hole. While on this subject I checked the Lift Pump and it was dry (I know it could leak internally) so does anyone have a pt# for this elect one for a 2000 350 cummins. as I will order one from US as our prices on things are nuts. The other day I priced online a new 200 amp Isolator then drove to town to price it here. SAME make was 300% more than your price!!! and the tires (2) I bought a week ago were total $500 cheaper in US than here. No wonderyou guys are rich!!
John,
Have had 3 secondary filters rust through on Mercedes and 1 on a Ford 7.3. Good idea to change every couple of years. Imagine if the pinhole sprayed diesel on the turbo or exhaust by the turbo. Bet you get better mileage now.
Yep, tires are cheaper here but I don't qualify for Medicare. So much for the "rich" guys. Want to trade insurance?
My pit is done so you can stop by and change filters the next time you head south where the "streets are paved with gold". ;D Building goes up next week.
Pierce
That pit is a thing of beauty! ^.^d
Don
Peirce, I do not qualify for Medicare either as I am not under what they call the Poverty line. I have to pay too.
Hey that pit is the PIT of all PITS. great job. HMM do you have an opening around Dec 1??
John
Thanks everyone for the vote of confidence. Concrete company recommended 4 weeks before the U300 can go out on it without taking a chance of weakening it. About 5.5 inches thick on each side of the pit with a 5 bag mix. OK now for cars but I also want to get a seal coat on before using it. Still have the wiring and water to connect but the air is on now. Using small impact to put the building together. FYI, the pit is 35 feet long so backing should still allow both engine/trans work while being able to use the stairs to get down into it.
This was a REAL back killer. I must have been mad but another year and I would never have been able to do it.
December sounds good. Getting to it requires backing a quarter mile and up a steep driveway before arriving. I made it once forward but it really heated the Allison up and just made it to the top. Reverse is 6.xx to 1 so I can back up just above idle speed.
Pierce
not a problem driving up hills as I have Banks and the resonator, she flies!!!
John