Anyone ever adjusted their pocket doors? They use Hafa (Hafele) hardware. I've found the hardware on the interweb but haven't come across any adjustment techniques. It looks like you would loosen the nut and maybe turn the bolt from the bottom but I don't see any way to get a wrench on the nut. My doors are both just a hair off so the latches don't work. Thanks.
jor
We never latch our sliding inside doors.
Might find it better to adjust latch than to mess with working pocket door.
We don't latch ours either. So why would I want to adjust them? Well, it's just one of those things! I don't think the latches are designed to be adjusted. Just need a very slight height adjustment.
jor
Hi, jor. The only time we use our latch is when we run the front AC off the generator while underway (if the dash AC is insufficient). Of course, this means we must latch it from the kitchen side where there is no knob/button. However, I did discover that the blunt end of a bottle/can opener (what we used to call a "church key" :)) ) fits into the slot and allows me to latch (and unlock) the door from the kitchen.
That being said, I don't know the Hafele model number, but here are a couple of things to get you started - which I found by Googling around:
a) the US number for Hafele: 800-423-3531
b) Futura model (could be the one FOT used?) brochure: http://www.hafele.com/us/documents/HAC_brochures_futura.pdf (http://www.hafele.com/us/documents/HAC_brochures_futura.pdf)
c) Futura model mounting/adjustment manual: http://www.hafele.com/us/documents/HAC_FuturaPocketDoorMountingInst.pdf (http://www.hafele.com/us/documents/HAC_FuturaPocketDoorMountingInst.pdf)
Hope this helps!
We used to have the sliding door latches let go while driving, so we use compression spring curtain rods at the top to hold them open. No more slamming doors.
I heard that someone drilled a hole in the pocket door and putting a pin in the hole to prevent door from closing.
we had the pocket kitchen door open a few times so I put a strap around the frame with a press button. On the bedroom one to keep it open I used a simple brass latch
John
You will need to remove one piece of trim above the the door and then can use a 10 mm open end wrench to turn the adjuster, but don't know how that trim comes off might be velcro, on other brands usually screwed in place
I'm not sure whether you want the door to stay open while traveling or to stay locked closed when using the facility. If it is the latch to keep the door open in the pocket while traveling, there should be a piece of wood trim near the back of the door that can be removed allowing access to the retaining latch back in the pocket. On mine, it just requires an allen wrench to screw down the tension spring that will hold the door in the pocket. I had to use a flashlight and mirror to see what was needed for mine but it worked. The bedroom door was easier to see and to tighten.
If you are trying to adjust the door so you can lock it closed, you should be able to adjust the height with the open end wrench as suggested by Red Tractor except ours uses a 7/16" rather than a 10mm.
Ron and Kent,
Mine stay open fine. Just want to make a teeny height adjustment so they will latch properly when closed. I can't see how the fabric trim is attached but maybe it is Velcro. I was afraid to reef on it. I'll take a closer look at it and post. Thanks to all.
jor
How about taking off the brass plate with the rectangular hole and filing the hole taller or lower, so the sliding door latches? Sounds easier then moving the whole door.
John, I just took a another look at my bathroom door. All I have to do is loosen the 1/2" lock nut from the end of the door with an open end wrench and the rotate the bottom adjuster with an allen wrench by sticking the wrench in the little holes and rotating it counter clockwise.
OK, got it (kinda). I sent James an email and he advised me that the trim is nailed in and that one can simply pull it off. Pulled a bit to no avail. Then I tried Kent's suggestion and I was just able to get an open end wrench on the nut when I puuuullled the trim out a bit. Once this is done, however, you have to drop the door out of the fitting before you can adjust it. Worked great on the back door and it now works like it's supposed to. I also got the front one adjusted properly but it looks like it never did line up right with the latch. One of these days I'll fix it using Barry's suggestion of relocating the striker plate. Thanks to all.
jor