I went to move the coach this weekend after its been sitting for the winter.
The brake light on the dash was lit. I read the Foretravel manual and it states that the brake lite lights when the ABS is working. I thought maybe I read this wrong, as I would think it would light if there was a problem with the brakes not all the time.
My second problem was the brakes were not grabbing, especially in reverse.
I contacted a shop and was told that calipers might be stuck.
The air pressure was at 110#.
I ordered some Aero Shell clay based grease and was planning to crawl underneath this weekend and give the brakes a greasing and hope I can free up the calipers or at least assess what the problem is.
How much can be done to the brakes without removal of the rear tires?
Any suggestions as to what could be done to loosen up the calipers (probably the caliper pins) without removing the rear wheels?
Thanks for your help!
Sounds like the slack adjusters need a look see too. If they are out of adjustment, the brakes are much less effective to the point of dangerous,
also reverse is less effective than forward.
Dave M
And even if you have automatic slack adjusters, they can need adjusting. Almost all the commercial big rigs on the highways today have automatic slack adjusters and one of the biggest DOT inspection failure causes are brakes out of adjustment. And it is not the "automatic" that is a problem - but lack of maintenance that keeps them from being automatic.
I will adjust this weekend.
Are there any special procedures I need to follow?
From what I have read, " turn in till pads contact discs then turn out 1/2 turn".
Going in I should feel no resistance, turning back out it should ratchet against the auto adjusters.
While adjusting the slack adjusters use a flat screwdriver to lift the mushroom shaped thing (lack of a better work). This is a pawl for the ratchet mechanism allowing you to turn the slack adjuster both ways. Sounds like you're on the right track, very important to run the caliper all the way out and back in, then final adjustment - after greasing.
Forgot to mention - remove the plug on top of the caliper to allow the excess grease to come out. The plug is designed to relieve and let excess grease out but the Meritor documentation says to remove it. Improper purging of excess grease will cause the pads to drag and do extensive damage.
Best bet is to get the maintenance document from Meritors web site and follow to the letter.
Here is the manual
Dave M
Thanks!
How can I locate service shop that has experience with our ABS disc brake systems? I am going to be in the Portland, OR area. I couldn't find any service centers on Meritor's web site.
I have one rotor/pad dragging and overheating on the drive axle. Wayne replace that same rotor and the pads just over a month ago at FT. He had no explanation as to why rotor on driver's side of drive axle was ruined and the other end of the axle wasn't.
It was so hot recently that it was smoking. Since then it has been about 450 degrees on the rotor compared to 150 for the rotor on the other end of the same axle.
I am at Henderson's Lineup in Grant's Pass, OR and they just have no experience with this system. They are going to dab a little grease on the slide pins and I will move on, expecting to follow-up on it in Portland.
I check them with a pistol IR thermometer.
Have you called their customer service to see if they can guide you to someone along the way?
Meritor Customer Service: 866-668-7221
Dick,
The FOT site lists an authorized service center in Eugene, OR. They should know how to spell Meritor and would have contacts at FOT. Foretravel Conversions : A Division of Foretravel Motorcoach (http://foretravel.com/inc/page.php?cat=Owner%20Services&id=37) It might be a place to check that is near to where you are.