So ... we are ambling along Rt 89 just north enough of Browning, MT that we are NOT near anything at all, when I begin to hear a tinny noise coming through the tiny open window near my passenger chair. I listen intently, but cannot place it. Almost at the same time, Jeff says,"I'm pulling over. I have a problem." Uh oh. "What's the problem?" "Something with the tow hitch." Traffic is so heavy that we have not seen another car for the last 10 minutes, so easing over is no issue. Exit motor home.
Holy Crap!! The Jeep is resting on the rear bumper of the rig, the tow hitch is completely under the rig and we are just standing there looking stupid. I get the Jeep into gear and slowly back it up. The locking pin holding the tow bar into the receiver hitch on the motor home has sheared off ... tow bar pulled out of the motor home and began dragging on the ground (tinny sound I heard!) and the clue for Jeff was when he saw the Jeep in the side view mirror! That was also when the brand new 10,000lb Road master All-Terrain hitch BENT one of the arms ... it'll do that when the front of the hitch is dragging on the ground in front of the vehicle. At least the safety cables did their job, as well as the AirForce 1, which slowed the car when he applied the brakes in the rig. NO DAMAGE to the motor home or the Jeep. We will have to replace the tow bar (brand new in March!!) but count ourselves lucky. If a Class 1 Mishap is "...ehhh ... coulda been worse!" and a Class 4 Mishap is "*&%#@^%$**&^WhatJustHappened!!" front tire blowout at 65 mph.... then we are thinking this was a Class 2 or Class 2+.
When we bought this tow hitch, the ONLY thing we did not replace was the locking pin that holds the tow bar in the receiver hitch on the rig. A $10 part, at best ... we are advising all our Foretravel friends to examine their equipment, and even if it looks fine ... replace it if it has some age. We are now thinking that the lock may have just let loose on a hard bump. Our lock was 5 years old. Glad I joined amazon Prime!! Maybe I can get the new tow bar here with free shipping!!! We may also drill a second hole for an additional pin to secure the stinger in the receiver hitch, a la Dave Katsuki. Redundancy is good, sometimes.
By the way ... the view that we have from our campsite of the mountains in Glacier is just outstanding!
Wow! Carol, you had me on the edge of my seat... all I could think of was that shinny new Jeep getting wrung out like a pair of dirty long Johns. Glad you didn't make me wait until the last paragraph to find out that the coach and toad came out intact. I think I will be drilling a second hole...
Don
You should be able to get all the parts you need to repair your tow bar from Roadmaster. It's good that it wasn't any more exciting than it was.
Harold, I will try to post pictures of the tow bar...ain't pretty and some of the welds are cracked. Will take it apart tomorrow and see what I need. Or, I may just send it back to RM and see what they say about repairing. Thanks for the suggestion
Holy CRAP! :o Glad you are OK and no damage to coach or jeep! Good luck on the repairs.
Looks like I have another item on my todo list. Note to self drill 2nd pin hole.
Oh darn you're going to have to stay in Glacier for another week. :) Put that jeep to good use.
see ya
ken & dori
Carol,
In your original post you say the pin sheared off, then you say that the lock may have just let loose. Did you find any of the pin pieces to verify a sheared pin? Those locks with the screw in cap design have always bothered me. Thanks for the warning.
We have a Tattle-Trail device that senses abnormal tow-car movements like broken hitch, frame, tire tread missing, etc.
We also have a Hitch-Lock device that removes all the slack in the tow hitch and keeps the pin from being slammed back and forth.
Glad you did not damage your tow-car & motorhome.
I was not aware that anyone had a second pin in their hitch. Sounds like a good idea.
We found the complete lock on the bumper of the Jeep...HUH?? Was intact-Key still works to loosen and tighten it down. My recommendation is get rid of that type of lock...Of course, the ones I put on the Jeep are the heavier duty which don't use a key to tighten them down.. $15 part - never thought about replacing the receiver lock. Another of lifes learning experiences......crap
@Barry can you give some details on your Hitch-Lock device?? Sounds interesting.
see ya
ken
Our anti-raddle hitch tightener is called HitchVise. We have used it for many years. I think it will help eliminate hitch pin wear
Hitch stabilizer: no wobble, anti rattle device for hitch accessories (http://www.hitchrider.com/nowobble.htm)
There are other makers of similar devices. Here is one of them.
Amazon.com: StowAway Hitch Tightener: Automotive (http://www.amazon.com/StowAway-Hitch-Tightener/dp/B0001CMUV4/ref=cm_cr_pr_pr) oduct_top
To clarify, what I did a long time ago is drill an additional hole in the hitch pin between the lock and the outside of the receiver to take a hair pin cotter (like you would use on a hitch pin without a lock.) I had a fear that the lock would come off at some point due to road grime and corrosion, but sounds like maybe Jeff and Carol's just vibrated off.
Carol and Jeff, now you know what I felt like when my hitch totally sheared off at bend by ball after hitting a bump. Safety cables saved me too from losing car.
John H
There's no way anyone could have forgotten to re-install the hitch pin lock and left it on the bumper of the Jeep, right?
Wow, glad you guys are ok. That the lock was on the bumper leads me to the same conclusion as above. Still, I would opt for a new one and look in a tractor supply pace for a long pin. You can lock it and put a cotter pin thru it.
Reminds me of an "incident" we had just East of Ajo Az a few years back. We were pulling a fifth wheel with a swivel wheel trailer behind it. The swivel wheel trailer had a motorcycle and a couple of bikes on it. I got a signal from my pressure pro that we had a blowout on the swivel wheel trailer. Imagine my surprise when I walked back there to change the tire and saw the swivel wheel trailer 200 yards behind us in the middle of the road. The pin had rattled out, the trailer slipped out of the receiver, the safety chains broke, goodbye trailer. Miraculously no one got hurt, the trailer stayed upright and our toys were not damaged. However had it not been for the tire blowing out and setting of the pressure pro we would never had realized that we lost the swivel wheel trailer, now THAT would have made for an interesting tale.
"There's no way anyone could have forgotten to reinstall the hitch pin lock and left it on the bumper of the Jeep, right"
I had not removed that lock in quite a while. Also, you can tell it took a bounce as it is damaged on one corner. And if I had done that NO way would I have put this threat on the Forum... :P Just want to share a problem so others can do a cheap fix. Good lock and a cotter pin.
Barry and Cindy are extremely cautious and back themselves up with great products. Check out his links in this tread. Karma too you B & C. I will order the hitch tightener and look at the tattle-tail.
I using a high tech devise that I've been told that I shouldn't be using, but still have not been told why in terms I understand. A SAE J429, Grade 8, bolt and locked nuts. Been told that the pin will be stronger. Pins are designed to be loaded in shear, while bolts are designed to be loaded in tension. I've never seen a pin fail in my short life time. Hitches ripped from the frame, snapped chains, broken tow straps (With the cool decapitating hooks), bent tow hooks, yes, but never a broken pin. Even the sheer strength of a Grade 8 bolt in that diameter is going to be ungodly strong.
About this locking pin thing . Having been in the boat business for 27 years and delt with many trailer hitches to pull boats etc ,here is the cheap forever fix . Use the standard pin that that came with your hitch . Drill a hole in the clip pin hole big enough for your pad lock . Now you might replace it a few years as you get some ware on the pin , but it didn't fall off or get stolen . :) :) :) Brad Metzger
Many years ago I worked for Hy-Gain Electronics (remember them?) in Lincoln, NE. Shortly after I started working there I was told about the trailer that tried to come in the front door of the plant. It seems that a trucker was hauling two trailers, and the second one decided it didn't want to go along with the other trailer, so it left and visited Hy-Gain. The trucker only found out about it when he stopped at a weigh station a few miles down the road and he was quite a bit lighter than he thought he ought to be with two trailers. The scale guys pointed out that he only had one trailer. About that time the State Patrol showed up and told him where the missing trailer was. On one was hurt, but some of the front office people were a bit shaken up.
I check the hitch and all connections on the mpg every time we stop. So far I've not found anything unusual, but I'll keep checking.
Y'all got me to thinking that I had not looked at the hitch pin in a long time. I went over this AM and inspected it. What I have is a straight pin that has a locking device on the end that you lock/unlock with a cylindrical key.
I removed the pin and all I found was a little rust, no scoring or ridges or any other indication that it was not in good condition. I should have known to check this more often.
Gary B
Gary,
Glad to hear you checking. Hopefully everyone will take5 minutes and do the same.
Check that the hole in the hitch is not elongated. If it is the hitch can move back and forth wearing and fatiguing the pin. There should be very little to no movement when the "train" is assembled.
I see grade 8 bolts mentioned. A 5/8" grade 8 bolt has a shear strength of 27,600 PSI in single shear. Apply a safety factor commonly used in automotive applications of 3 then it's working shear strength would be 9200 PSI. BUT grade 8 bolts will break as apposed to stretch to failure (elongation). As there are considerable shock loads encountered if everything is not tight then they are not quite as strong as might appear. Given all this they are probably a lot stronger than an El cheapo Walmart pin made in China.
Keith.
Like that one - I use to haul those A-train doubles.
As I mentioned before we have a Hitch Vise to take out the hitch slack. Well, I went out today and found that our hitch pin will spin in the receiver hole, indicating no pressure on the pin, at least while we are stopped. Seems like the Hitch Vise keeps the insert tight in place in the receiver and takes stress off the pin.
We intend adding a hitch vise, as well. The Roadmaster units were out of stock when I placed our order for the new tow bar with etrailer.com (we have had wonderful experiences ordering from them, by the way), so we are going to look for that locally. They are a fairly common item and can be had for $25 to $50, usually. Just a bit more insurance ... although I suspect we are going to be watching that rear camera a bit more than usual for a while!!
Good to hear the great report given what happened. Wow!!
We just left the Glacier area 2 days ago on the Hwy 93 Motorcade and are now in Calgary for the Stampede. I highly recommend the Hwy to the Sun drive. Incredible! I also recommend, after stopping at the pass, to continue on to St Mary for lunch at the lodge. Then continue south on Hwys 89, 49, and 2 to get back to West Glacier. A very pretty drive and avoids passing through the construction twice.