Does any know the filter number and belt number for the genset on a 2000 36ft U270?
Also Cold tire pressures for the front and rear tires ?
Thanks Don
Depends on tire load range and axle/wheel weight.
Have the coach weighed to get axle weights at minimum, individual wheel weights are better (but not as easy to get as axle weights), and if the tires are Michelin, here are the load/inflation tables (you'll need to know tire model, size, and load range) Michelin North America RV Load & Inflation Tables (http://www.michelinrvtires.com/michelinrv/tires-retreads/load-inflation-tables.jsp)
Michelle
Generator: Air Filter-Kubota 16271-32090, fuel filter-kubota 0000-43081, Racor fuel-Racor Rt2T, Air Filter-Fleetguard AF1658K or Kubota 70000-11221.
These filters came from our manual.
We had our coach weighed at all four positions---fully loaded and fueled as we travel. Front 105 and rear 88. Yours will not be the same.
Bob
2000 U270 40 ft CAI
Thanks for the replys.
Don
Lots of people run tires at maximum psi as stated on the tire sidewall. Only advantage to running at less than maximum is better ride. I would run tires on high side until you get a chance to weigh. After you get your axle weights you can experiment with inflations pressures to see if it improves your ride.
My coach tracks better with lower pressure in the front tires. FWIW
see ya
ken
Fan Belt - Napa or Gates 7300
powertech_si_8kw-belts-filters-hoses-for-foretravel (http://www.beamalarm.com/Documents/belts-filters-hoses/power-tech-si-8kw-kubota-2000.html)
Thanks Berry
That is exactly what I was looking for.
I owe you a Mystic Lobster Roll !!!!!!
Don
Yes, cooler also, important in hot weather and if close to GVW. Better fuel mileage also.
Ken, you may need to check toe in. Needs a little or it will wander a bit. More noticeable at higher pressures as steering sensitivity increases with pressure.
Pierce
@Pierce Thanks that makes sense...
Had the alignment done by Wayne at FOT last year with no effect that I could tell. He gets such good reviews on here I figured it was as good as it was going to get but after reading Chuck Pearson post Riding on rails (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=15669.msg) I'll be checking it out! I'm OK with red neck engineering!
see ya
ken
Ken,
"Riding on rails" is a good read. Chuck has an excellent grasp of what it takes to get it heading straight down the road. Not at all too long.
Back in the late '60s when I got a good job, the first thing I did was to buy a quick stock car. My engine builder, Bob Joehnick, was also a good chassis guy. He sat me down and lectured about things like never moving over for anyone because if you do, he will go by along with all his buddies. Make him go around on the outside. He got to front end alignment and said that I should always have a bit of toe in on anything that moved, never zero or even worse, toe out. Said it would keep the wandering down not only on the straights but different pavement transitions and road camber changes. On cars with bad alignment, hard braking on rough roads can open the eyes in a hurry. With the cameras in the race cars today, you can see how easy it is to keep steering wheel input to a minimum even at 200 mph if the chassis is set up right but when the tires have gone away, how busy the hands are and how difficult it gets. All at about 140 degrees inside the car. Surprising how much of this stuff translates to passenger cars and RVs we drive today.
Pierce