I have 3 FT Owners Manuals and it seems more times than not, I cannot find the information I'm looking for about most items. I really wish I had something that was actualyl current and useful. I think outside of having information on the "stuff" inside the coach....most outdated info, I have manuals full of things like ad slicks and "what if you had this?" type of info. I do have pretty good stuff for Cat and Allison, so that helps.
So anyways...the brakes. After posting a pic a while back and asking a question about something having to do with the brakes, someone posted back and said that due to a specific in the pic, that I needed new brakes...and I have known this for a while now.
My neighbor came home last night and said he contacted our local tire shop who specialize in big truck road service and for $70 they will come to my house and take off and reinstall all the wheels as well as block it up while we work on it. That seemed pretty fair to me since we won't have to mess with any of that possible frustration and energy.
After looking in all my owners manuals, I see nothing that tells size, brand or replacement part numbers for my specific brake parts. Funny, in one place it says "ALL DISK AIR BRAKES" ...then in the next comment it talkes about my "drums"....very frustrating.
Bottom line is this, does anyone have information for oem brake pads and replacement "cans" so that I can get this job done asap?
My neighbor mentioned last night that they were most likely 16" or 16 1/2" and I said that my wheels were 22.5" and he just kind of looked at me with that deer in the headlights look, then said that don't matter. So, its obvious that I will be no help to him, lol.
What else needs to be done or would be good to do when installing new brake pads?
I sure do appreciate the help, info and advice :)
Carl
Carl, if you don't get the replacements from Foretravel, you can go to your big truck parts sales or 18 wheeler parts house WITH the shoes and usually they can get the replacements for you. That is what we did.
And when you say "cans" are you talking about the brake/spring brake air chambers? If you've never changed the air brakes you might want to find someone near you with experience in changing them. And if you do it yourself don't forget to adjust your brakes after replacing the shoes!
We have a 2007 Mack and even though they can look up the part numbers we still take the part we need to replace to match up with the right one. I can't tell you the times we have gotten the wrong part from looking up in parts book...Hope this helps Kerry
Thanks Kerry, yes the cans are what you mention. Its what my neighbor calls them. We may just do as you suggest, but since my my neighbor is my parts man i'd really like to give him actual numbers...just thought someone may say, heres what you need :)
You may need to go to the parts house anyway, it has been awhile since I changed our shoes and i can't remember if they will need the old ones for "cores" someone else may chime in here on that.
As far as the "cans" why are you going to replace them...are they leaking?
I either have 1 rear can sticking and causing brakes to not release or its something else....the part they connect to. We are heading up to Houghton / Copper Harbor in Michigans U.P. on the 24 of this month and I dont want to have the coach in pieces right up to that time. Just want to Git-R-Done :)
Carl,
I just had ours replaced on our 22.5" wheels and they used "KIT15625PM" Rear brake pads.
At that time they found leaking axle seals. Something you might want to check.
I watched a member replace his brakes on a motorcade at the RV Park.
Brake Replacement (http://beamalarm.com/Documents/brake_replacement/brake_replacement.html)
Thanks Barry. Do you think that FT uses the same everything based on that size rim...even between 91 and your year?
Is it likely that being all 4 brakes are disc, would they all be the same size and part numbet?
When doing disc brakes, do the discs get "turned" or just replace pads?
Mutch appreciated :)
Yes i had the thought that I would have had the rotors machined before replacing the pads as in pictorial. Good info though.
John
When I just had my tires and rear brakes replaced recently. They looked at the rotors and said I did not need to turn them.
As far as Brake pad part number, I am no expert but I can say that the coach in the photo page was the same and I believe it was a 2000. Since yours is much older it would be a guess.
Carl,
$70 sounds like a good deal. Will save you a lot of sweat and frustration. You may not know the pad size until you take the old ones off. A lot of internet sites have the image and dimension so you can compare with the one you took off. As far as the rotors go, you can look at the shiny part that the pad has been rubbing against and compare it to the rusty parts on either side. If it is flat across the areas, you probably don't have much wear unless they have been turned before. Harbor Freight has very inexpensive calipers that can measure how thick the rotors are. There will be a website that shows both the new thickness as well as the thickness at the wear limit. Harbor Freight also has a relatively inexpensive dial indicator that together with a magnetic base, will show you as you slowly turn the rotor, if it has any runout. There are also specs for the acceptable amount of runout (sometimes called DTV or disc thickness variation).
Runout can be felt as a pulsation in the brake pedal of your car or if bad, also in the steering wheel. Runout can be dangerous when the disc has worn past the wear limits and you apply the brakes going downhill. The disc gets hot, distorts more as the temperature goes up and each side starts vibrating independently causing the vehicle to shake, sometimes violently. This is a rapid series of braking and releasing, many times a second as the rotor turns. Bad deal with a heavy vehicle heading downhill.
When you check your used pads, more wear on one side may indicate a sticking caliper. You have to also check if the calipers are able to slide on the pins. There should also be an online source for your kind of brakes if you don't have the factory manual. It's not unusual for the front pads to be a little more worn than the rears. Less so in a rear engine motorhome.
I think my '93 will have the same brakes and I can look it up as I have the manufacturer's brake maintenance section in the manuals that came with our U300. Let me know if you can't find the info.
Pierce
Pierce, we had only one rear tire set removed today. My mechanic and the tire man felt more comfortable with only one side at a time on the rear. We will take off everything that needs to be replaced and have a better idea of what to expect once that is done. If you can offer the numbers from your manual that may prove to be helpful. I gave Barry's number to the mechanic but I don't know if he had a chance to look up anything yet. I think his plan is to get things apart and in his hands before moving forward.
Thanks all
Carl,
The good news is, I do have the complete Rockwell air disc brake overhaul/parts manual with all part numbers, exploded views, pad kit numbers, torque spec., and about a dozen other items.
The bad news is, there are several different models, over 100 pages, and I am heading out of town for a couple of days. I can drop it off at a Kinko type print shop and have them copy it and then snail mail after I get back on the weekend.
I also have the Rockwell Field Support Drivetrain Components Manuals with overhaul/parts/ for the steering box, cans, carriers, rear end, etc. if anyone ever needs it. Can have it copied/mailed for cost.
Pierce
Thanks Pierce, my mechanic just called and said he has been unable to find any info about parts for our coach. He said that in all his years he's never seen such a system and he's not going to take anything apart until he finds numbers and a source.
I just left a message for Mike in parts at FT. one of the other parts guys said that Mike had orcould get part numbers etc for something that age. I'm a little nervous now. I appreciate you help Pierce, but before you go to any trouble, let me see what I can find out from FT
Disc brake rotors have a GO or no GO as far as turning.
I guess I was a bit out of line calling FT to see about part numbers for my brakes. After 3 phone calls I finally received a return call letting me know that "they had parts for me" and "they were in business to sell parts" and they would not give me any info that would allow me to buy parts locally. So now I either buy from and pay shipping from Texas for all the heavy parts I need or figure out what I need on my own....so I guess I'm on my own. I'm a little surprised and perhaps naive, but I would have thought I could have gotten a little more helpful service. Sorry if it sounds negative, it just didn't seem like a very friendly call I got. That's my rant for the day.....
Well Carl,
I recently had my mobile diesel mechanic friend replace the right front disc brake pads and wheel seal on a CC Magna. None of us knew any of the part numbers.
With the parts lying on the counter of one of the many truck part suppliers in Houston, the new parts were quickly in hand.
All work was done at the coach and not at a shop. So where there is a will, there is a way.
All the best.
Thanks Rudy, I wont repeat what my mechanic/friend/neighbor said, but it turned him off for sure. The coach is in my barn and I was told when I got home nor to worry and that progress was made regardless, so im thankful for that. And...there IS anwill :)
If you take the parts to a large truck brake company they will know what you have. The Rockwell air disc brakes are also used on some firetrucks. There is a place somewhere in Michigan that has rebuilt calipers as I looked at a 98 that pulled to the right real bad and I looked what the cost of rebuilt calipers were and when I jacked up the coach found the wheel turned free, it turned out to be a bad tire causing it to pull. Good luck with the brakes, should be able to find information on the internet.
Once you have the Rockwell model (should be visible), I can send the part number quickly. Should be a ADB-1540, ADB-1560 or a ADB-1760. Pads alone or complete kits are available.
Attached is a photo of the 1991 Rockwell Parts Book cover page.
Pierce
Thanks guys, as it turns out, the reason I could not find anything in my owners manual was because several weeks ago I gave the field manual from inside the binder to my mechanic. So he has that. Pierce, I will go back and look again to see if a parts manual can be found.
I got a message from my guy saying that from his understanding, a parts list for my needs is on his desk but it may not be seen until Monday. He is a very well known, liked and knowledgeable mechanic who has many years of experience...so I know he will get it whipped. On my end, because he always charges his price for parts and never charges and labor, I must wait for everything to be in his time....so I do :)
Pierce was kind enough to offer having his parts book copied and shipped to me. I looked through all 3 of my owners manuals again to see if I had it and had over looked it recently...but I do not.
After searching for a copy of the book Pierce posted a picture of above, I thought I might be able to just buy a copy from a supplier online. The problem is, I don't find "Rockwell PB-8857B"
..I find "MERRITOR PB-8857A", but it says it was issued 2003 and Pierces says issued 1-91. There is another source that shows PB-8857AS.
What's the chance that Pierces book for his 93-94 U-300 would really be the right book for me?
How would I know exactly what parts book I needed IF I could actually find it?
Lastly....does anyone know if there is a place to purchase such items?
Pierce says his book has 100 pages and I REALLY appreciate his offering to have it copied, I just hate like heck to trouble him for the time in all areas around it. I would like to have my own copy though. We probably won't get to any real part of the work until the later part of this coming week...Thurs or Fri.
Just thought I'd ask and if it comes right down to it, I may have to request the Kinko's copy and will gladly pay what ever the cost for time, printing and shipping :)
Carl,
I think you have air disk brakes on your coach, but you should be able to tell for sure by looking at the back side of the wheel. If you see a disk, you have disk brakes. If you have an air pressure gage on the instrument panel you have air brakes. If you decide that you do not want to do the work, go to the local fire department and find out who does their brake maintenance. Most fire trucks have air disk brakes, except maybe some real old ones. Most truck shops will not have experience with disk brakes, but whoever works on the fire trucks will.
Thanks Jerry, but I'm all set on who will do the work and that I do have air disc brakes. I was just questioning where to source the parts book that Pierce posted a pic of and to know it would be the right book for my needs.
The other book you need is the Air Disc Brakes maintenance manual no. 4M, revised 11-91. It has everything you need to install and adjust anything to do with the disc brakes. Lots of illustrations. A real how to do it book. The price was $2.00 in 1991.
Contact Rockwell International Corp Automotive Operations
2135 W Maple Rd, Troy, MI 48084 248-435-6881
Would seem the operator should connect you to the publications department.
With these two publications, you should be able to stop the world. :D
Pierce
Thanks Pierce, I'll call them tomorrow and hope they are able to supply both :)
Sure do appreciate you buddy :)
It is a pretty big job if you're doing it yourself, lovetogo. I did it on mine and it was a great learning experience. Definitely download the Meritor service manual and make sure you have all the info to get the sizes for the spindle nuts. Also, the rotor assembly is pretty heavy. Make sure you have help on hand to move it. My local NAPA was able to get the replacement rotor.
Carl,
If you don't already know DO NOT take apart the rear air brake chambers (cans) They have a large spring in them that applies the parking/emergency brake. It can cause serious injury if it's not caged first. If the can is badly rusted it can fly apart without warning. Safety first!
Keith
You can go to: Air Brakes: Technical/Components/Caging [ForeForums Foretravel Motorcoach Wiki] (https://wiki.foreforums.com/doku.php?id=technical:brakes:details) Checking and repairing them is a good idea as I have had one fail at the top of Rocky Mountain National Park. After parking to photo the marmots, I could not release the brakes. I must have tried to release them one hundred times until finally, they released. As Keith posts above, you can get hurt if you don't know the simple procedure to cage the spring. You can then buy a new can or repair yours. The parts are not expensive and easy to do. Here is a quote:
"Broken springs account for 85 to 90 percent of the faulty brake chambers we find in our shop," says Paul Tidrick, a mechanic at Taylor Truck Line in Northfield, Minn. "But leaking diaphragms are responsible for about 100 percent of our brake chamber breakdowns."
"The difference is understandable. Mechanics look for defects, but most drivers do not (beyond their daily inspections, that is). The usual air chamber failure starts when one of the internal springs, fatigued by repeated application and road-chemical-induced corrosion, busts into several pieces. This often goes unnoticed because the remaining brakes continue to work normally, stopping the truck and holding it still when parked. Eventually, though, these jagged parts poke a hole in one of the chamber's two diaphragms (also called pancakes). That gets people's attention – and empties their wallets."
Once you have it apart, you can clean it with a small handheld sandblaster from HF http://www.harborfreight.com/21-oz-hopper-gravity-feed-spot-blaster-gun-95793.html for $20. I found mine for $12. I have even used it today. Then use a spray chromate self etching primer and reassemble. A fun project that takes less than an hour.
Pierce
A complete new brake chamber (can) is probably under $100. Likely easier than tearing the old one apart and messing with all the stuff. You just have to cut the rod and install everything.
Not a bad idea to replace the air lines running to the Spring/air brake chambers. NAPA has the brake chambers and the air hose.
Like Keith said, cage the chambers before removing ( a simple process).
Make sure you chock the tires!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!