I've had a problem with opening the engine hatch on my 03. My Roadmaster Falcon 2 tow bar has a vertical piece that keeps me from opening it. Therefore, I have to pull the the tow bar when I check the oil, etc. which inhibits my desire to do regular checks. We just left FT and they are selling a 12" long strait extension rated at 6000#. It has one pin hole for connection to the receiver. No one in the FT shop or parts knew much about the product ("just got it in") but I was told I needed to use a 12 grade bolt with a locking nut to connect to the receiver. Does that seem sufficient? The last thing I need is to loose the toad.
Any feedback would be much appreciated!
Larry
What would be the difference if you just used another of the pin that is used to connect the tow bar? Whouldn't that be of the same quality and strength as what was holding the tow bar in the receiver? Maybe I am missing something.
An option may be to call the manufacturer?
I had been using one with about that length since I got this coach and never had a problem with the regular pin and lock. I now have a different one as the old one broke at the bend when I grounded out the back end of coach in mex last winter. Sheared the ball part off!!
John h
Larry. I have used a "raise" extension on my receiver for 50,000+ miles. It was necessary to make my tow level. I had to notch the engine hatch to clear the raised extension. Works nicely and looks just fine.
Be very careful when using hitch extensions (or long "drops") as the change in leverage can put excessive loads on your receiver if you bottom out.
Craig
You should be able to use a regular hitch pin but you will probably need to make up some type of extention for the safety cables. Hope that your trip is going good, really enjoyed meeting you at foretravel
Hi Red Tractor! Good to hear from you!
I've seen some installation instructions on the web that state use a bolt-not a pin but didn't give an explanation. Does anyone know why?
Perhaps because you can choose a Grade 8 bolt which will give much greater shear strength than the pins you can buy. Although I'm not sure I'd like to see what forces will shear the store-bought versions, actually.
Theoretically, the best arrangement would be a bolt/hitch insert arrangement that allows threads on both sides. So you'd have to screw it in until the bolt passes the first set of threads in the hitch... then screw it through both sides... then add a bolt. Seems unlikely that anyone would do this but our Yakima bike rack has an arrangement where the pin is threaded onto the rack's hitch insert but is open on the other end for a locking device.
Craig
Larry,
There is no such thing as a "Grade 12" bolt. Highest grade is 8. Perhaps they were thinking to make the hitch tight so there is less movement. I would just use a hitch pin or locking pin from Reese or another reputable manufacturer. Remember to check your pins (take them out and look at them) occasionally to ensure that there is no wear. Toads have got away when there was elongation of the receiver pin holes allowing the pin to wear.
Keith