I have been in the process of reconditioning the exterior of my coach for several weeks now, compounding and polishing the sides, front, and rear to remove all graphics and oxidation. After reading numerous reviews, I had purchased the PoliGlow kit thinking it would be 'Magic in a bottle'. I decided to use the PoliGlow on the roof first off, and thank God for that! First off, the only preparation that I did on the roof was the PoliPrep that comes with the kit. I followed the directions explicitly. I have gotten less than desirable results with the PG. Application was a real process and quite time-consuming. I tried various application methods, all of them producing streaks that just can not be repaired with additional applications. Yes, it does shine. And I would like to think that the PG will provide protection to the surface. But I am certainly glad that that I did not apply that stuff to the visible areas of my coach. After all of the time and effort that I have put into refinishing those surfaces, I am going with a polymer sealer called JetSeal 109. I have used it on my automobiles for years, and it is an excellent surface protector.
Would I use PoliGlow again. Never. It would have been better to compound and polish the roof with a rotary buffer, follow with a wax or sealer of some sort, and probably take less time.
A similer product to Polyglow is Red Max Pro floor finish #5. Many folks on the RV.net site swear by it for restoring a finish on older oxidized fiberglass. I use it on my boat, sailboat and kayaks and it works great. They all shine like brand new. It is pretty much a permanent application and like you said the prep is critical.
But, I would never use it on my Foretravel or anything with a clearcoat or painted finish.
Dean
PolyGlow is probably not the answer.
Check out this link to see if Cindy's attachment will help with maintaining gel coat. Cindy kept our coach looking like new.
Removing oxidation from gelcoat (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=15858.msg98812#msg98812)
In defense of PoliGlow, I used it on my '96 295 and was very pleased with the results. Getting ready to do it again this fall.
I also have had very good success with it. To reduce the drying (evaporation) rate and possible streaking, it helps to apply these coats in a shaded area, i.e., under a roofed structure or on an overcast day. Also, the chamois applicator should be rinsed in a pail of water every few minutes. Other than that, just following the included instructions yielded good results for me.
Don, tell me about your application technique? What stroke pattern?
Steve,
I start at the top, just below the wall/roof junction. I squirt a "line" of PG on the applicator from end-to-end, then even it out briefly with my finger if necessary. Placing the applicator (chamois) vertically, I spread from left to right (or vice versa) for about 3 feet, then repeat with slight overlap down one applicator width. When the chamois "grabs" or streaks, its time to squirt another line on it. By the time you get to the bottom of the coach for that three feet of width the upper part will be dry and ready for another coat. Or you can move to another column of 3' and start again at the top. The only time I apply vertically is around windows or the grills. For the hard to reach areas the small patch of chamois provided in the kit is very handy.
Once the coat has dried, look at an angle at the surface and you can see if there has been any streaking (due to insufficient PG on the chamois). You can either apply another coat just over that place, trying to "feather" the end, or just wait till the next coat and make sure it is covered well. "Feathering" refers to lifting off the surface in a gradual manner, continuing the direction of application. The same thing is done when painting a wall or side of a house. It eliminates the "abruptness" of the stroke.
The first three coats on a "raw" fiberglass surface will not be shiny nor very smooth, for the PG is being absorbed in the fiberglass "pores", so the application takes a bit more effort (force). By the fourth coat it will begin to smooth out and go on more easily.
As I mentioned in a previous email, it is really best to apply this in the shade, not in direct sun.
Hope this helps.
You can't get the Red Max Pro anymore becaused Home Depot decided to just sell the manufacturers stuff Zep. And the Zep Wet Look Floor Finish is the very same stuff as the Red Max Pro. Using the RMP on RVs started out several years ago and you can find the original thread over at Check this out NOT Poliglow...Time will tell.. - Fiberglass RV (http://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f56/check-this-out-not-poliglow-time-will-tell-43004.html). Some over there claim that the floor finish is the very same formula as the Poly Glow, and much cheaper. If you notice, that thread started back in 07-24-2010, 03:52 PM and is still running and consist currently of 36 pages of threads. So we now know that the floor finish will work on a RV for over two years without damaging it.
Like Don, I used Red Max on my coach and am very pleased with it. I applied 5 coats. The first 2 or 3 doesn't shine but after that the shine gets better. I did the front and back last year. After a year, it still looked good, so I did the rest of the coach. I applied it with small sponge pads covered with microfiber that I bought at Dollar General. The first step is cleaning with Barkeepers Friend before the application of the Red Max. One thing that was incorrect in an earlier post, use Red Max #3. It has the 3 on the bottle. Follow the instuctions in the posted web site and I think you will be pleased. This is probably not for coachs with good gel coat or paint, but for the older coachs that are dull and impoosible to obtain a shine, this works. Bugs and road film washes off easier too.
3lhttp://www.fiberglassrv.com/forums/f56/check-this-out-not-poliglow-time-will-tell-43004.html
Yep, #3, my bad. I have a 5 gallon pail of it that I got on sale at Lowes. Should last for a good long time. The stuff goes a long way and like I said keeps the boats, etc. looking sharp without waxing several times a year. My Formula is a 1986, sailboat is an 84. Both had dull, oxidized gelcoats and now look great. Several of my neighbors have started using it on their boats after seeing how good ours came out.
Most of the work is in the first prep and then I just wash and add a coat each year.
Dean