I just read a thread on another forum about a man who had a heart attack while driving his toad. All turned out fine, although the toad was badly damaged and his wife got a knot on her head. Since heart disease seems to run in my family, I'm a bit concerned about what would happen if I had a heart attack while driving, and as we look at full-timing in a DP MH, obviously the chance of a disaster increase.
I've noticed that a very few coaches have the emergency brake knob located somewhere to the driver's right, where it would be possible for the passenger to reach it fairly easily in case of an emergency. Many, though, seem to think that somewhere around the driver's left knee is a good place for it. That would seem to be a pretty poor location in case of a driver emergency.
How difficult would it be to relocate that yellow knob to a place on the driver's right, where Jo Ann could pull it should I have a heart attack while driving? I realize that if we through enough money at it the whole front could be redesigned. I'm not thinking about that, just about that know. What's behind it that makes it work?
The emergency brake knob can be moved as it only has air lines going to it which could be rerouted and if necessary added onto for more length and the wiring also could be changed, not a big deal as I see it.
Here is a post from about a year ago regarding emergency stopping and the copilot that may be of interest:
Emergency Stopping When Rolling - What Can CoPilot Do? (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=13227.msg72194#msg72194)
One thing to consider when relocating the knob is can it be activated by mistake. Had AN Emergence stop for the port engine of our boat just to the right of the door frame into the lower cabin . More then once it got pulled by misstake before I installed guards over both of them. Gam
It has always seemed odd to me that my Foretravel has no park position for the transmission and that the parking brake knob can be easily pushed to the off position. I think a situation like that on an automobile would soon be corrected by a government regulation or possibly one already exists. The fact that a dog, child, or even the owner could accidentally release the parking brake prompted me to make a device from PVC pipe to fit between the knob and dash so that it cannot be pushed off accidentally. It's just a short piece of appropriate size and length pipe with a slot cut to allow it to be pushed over the knob shaft. The slot is slightly smaller than the shaft so it cannot fall off. The plastic will give enough so that it goes on and off easily. I filed off the sharp corners and edges.
same thing for me a few years ago, I thought it was strange not to have some safety device. I made one out of mahogany and clear coated it to match woodwork. Do not want something that does not match the cabinetry!!!
John H
EVERYONE should have something like Jerry has to prevent accidental brake knob push-in. But brakes will only release for day or so while there is enough air pressure in the tanks. We made ours out of wood, but I think the PVC idea is better.
SOB motorhomes with brake knob on side dash are at more risk than we are, as an elbow or something else pressed on side dash panel can release brakes. A diesel mechanic told me he damaged his coach while was working inside. His coach was on a small incline and he released brakes without knowing it and the coach moved very slowly until it hit something and damaged the front. He was very surprised he was not aware of the movement. We made our safety block after hearing his story.
here is mine. It will only go on one way around so I marked the front face with a felt pen.
John
I have been using one out of PVC for about 4yrs.
Not quite the same thing but we used something like this on vehicles that absolutely must not be moved. Amazing how there are people who would ignore the DO NOT MOVE tag!
Also stops them stealing the RV.
JENDYK Enterprises, Inc. | PARKING BRAKE LOCK FOR STRAIGHT TRUCKS, BUSES AND (http://jendyk.com/parking-brake-lock-for-buses-dump-trucks-and-other-straight-trucks/)
Keith
Simple, install, a 2nd parking brake knob for the DW, while your at it, put one in the bathroom (Head), and one in the kitchen. You know, cover all bases.
Sort of like a 3 way or 4 way light switch setup, any parking valve would engage the parking brake. All it takes is finding a mechanic who understands the air system. You will find a lot of parts replacers and very few folks who know what they are doing.
Dave M
Wow, not a bad idea to build myself one of these accidental depression preventers! I have a 2 year old who seems to like to push buttons. Our street is a pretty decent incline and I would hate for him to mess with the parking brake and watch he and the rest start to roll down the hill. Had not really thought about it before, but I'm sort of surprised he hasn't done it already!
Benjie,
MCI Coach (Greyhound) uses a parking brake system called the DD3 system, just pushing the park knob in does not release the brakes, you also have to stand on the brake pedal, this puts air pressure on the locking paws, to release them, then off you go.
Some claim that was designed to prevent a crazy passenger from trying to take the bus for a ride, they also use a system to start the engine by adding switch's in series with the start button, so the right switch's have to be on before it starts, Guess Greyhound has had some interesting experiences with nut cases.
Dave M
The placement of the parking brake button is probably appropriate for situations other than the "debilitated driver" emergency. If you put a button in a more accessible spot, you certainly want to require some positive action to make it work. You wouldn't want the dog to bump it at the wrong time.
Benjie,
The safety collar may indeed be appropriate for your situation. You could also bleed down the air pressure and/or place chocks at a wheel. The parking brake won't release without pressure in the brake system.
I like the idea of wheel chocks. I would think that they would need to be pretty stout, though, to keep a bus tire from rolling over it. One of the engineers here could probably come up with the proper dimensions without even thinking about it.
I've seen a X-style chock use on trailers with tandem axles. Would something like that work for those of you with tag axles?
The X-style chocks are too light weight. I use large yellow plastic chocks that I found in an RV supply store.
When I bring the coach home from storage and park it on our sloped drive for a couple of days I use chocks. Found these and am pleased with them.
Commercial Rubber Chocks for Large Tires (http://www.discountramps.com/rubber-chocks.htm)
You can purchase 6"x8"x10" rubber wheel chocks at most truck stops. They are designed for Big Truck. I purchased a couple at a local Napa store that carries some parts for Big Trucks, they work just fine.
Roland
Thanks for the tips on the chocks. Looks like either of the two mentioned above would work for anything we're considering, so I'll add them to the RV shopping list.
I bought a couple of big rubber chocks at Northern Tool. Tied a big white rope between them so that I am more likely to lose the pair rather then one at a time. Have used them for the utility trailer. They work well for that. Haven't tried to drive over them with the coach yet.
Many years ago I bought a pair of those yellow plastic chocks to use with the old Minnie Winnie. One day I forgot that I had chocked the wheel, and proceeded to drive over one of them. I still have the pair, and once in a while I remember to use them, but I don't really trust them. I'm thinking that for something that weighs somewhere around 15 tons I really ought to have something much more substantial.
Harbor Fright has pretty good rubber chocks with eyes for attaching a line. I connected mine with about a 2 footer. I store them in the small retractable step compartment where I can grab them quickly. They fit with about 1/8" to spare.
Pierce
My ex-Greyhound 4107 had DD3 cans but only required the button to be released. You could pull the button out with zero pressure, start the engine and the brakes would release by themselves at about 80 lbs. No interlock on the starter button.
I had one stick on in Rocky Mtn. Natl. Park in the middle of the road. Tried resetting it for 10 minutes before it released the one side. Got home OK but rebuilt it the next day.
Pierce
Pierce
I just destroyed mine when I forgot about it and drove over it when leaving the Sea World parking lot. Doh!
Best Regards,
Benjie
Benjie Zeller
(512) 587-4628
Benjie, are you referring to the yellow plastic ones?
No. These were heavy duty black rubber purchased at a local truck supply house.
Best Regards,
Benjie
Benjie Zeller
(512) 587-4628
Don't think they make any chocks you can't drive over if you apply enough horsepower to the drive wheels. ;D
Roland
LOL. Especially, if you chock the front and then get a running start and run over it with the back wheels. I was sort of surprised that the chock disintegrated, but then again these things are pretty heavy! ;-)
Pierce,
On the MCI DD3 brakes always stopped nice, but not locking correctly, so I ordered two re-man units from Greyhound, that solved all the above. The main issue for me, I would have replaced them both but the small size of the DD3, there was not enough room to install the standard parking brake chamber for that was a lot cheaper route, but stayed with the original setup.
The combo for starting switch positions was not normal where one would guess.
Everything about the MCI was a learning experience, so much very close to the GM series, just different, but educational.
Still miss the ole MCI, but as I am too rigid to crawl around and under it, I had to go with the next best choice, so why I go to Nac, FOT, MOT and Xtreme. My days of knees, elbows and sliding under are just a fond memory.
Dave M