I have a 2001 FT with the white door gasket. It's looking rather sad around the area where everyone, including me, grabs the door to close it and it shows. I've tried cleaning the area but without success. Do you have a remedy or recommendation of a cleaning product I could try?
I've heard the company discontinued the white and only black is available. I think I know why.
Jon,
When we had the white gasket I used Greased Lightning and Scotchbrite pad to clean it up. The first time I did it the difference was amazing. Just be carefull with the pad near the door edge paint.
On the advice of another RV owner, I tested a small area near the bottom with acetone. It cleaned it up nicely and did not seem to do any damage at all. So I cleaned the entire length of the gasket, insdie and out. It looks great - shiny, white -looks almost new - and Erma is happy with the result.
I to use greased lightning and a scotch-brite pad. You don't have to use much pressure, and wipe off the cleaner as you go. Then I top it off with a little pledge furniture polish. Gam
Hi Jon,
I used acetone. It worked well. It is very flamable. I would not want it stored in my coach. I will try the other method, greased lightning, next time. Best of luck.
Raymond
My white gasket had ripped so I had Xtreme replace it with the new black gasket. I was apprehensive, but it looks just like it belongs with all the other black rubber from the windows.
Peter
I have used spray 9 cleaner/disinfectant my favorite all purpose cleaner.
I have used all the above mentioned products, no joy on mine. Looks like I am going to have to change the gasket(not looking foward to it.
Change out of the gasket is not difficult. My wife and I did it in about three hours start to finish. Drastic difference from the white, but goes well with the black window frames.
I second the motion to replace the worn out white gasket with the new black one. The only hard part was removing the door from the coach. We also replaced the screen door gasket at the same time.
Just a note of warning. PTL closes for the state holiday of deer hunting in Mich. If you don't order before then, you'll have to wait 'till the hunters get back.
I want to thank everyone who responded on how to clean/replace my door gasket. Now I have a plan/s (White Lightning, acetone or replace) to fix the problem.
Well, I just went out and looked at mine again. First time I have really looked at it since we got home from FL last fall. It does not look good. It was clean, white and shiny when I finished with the acetone, but now it is dingy again. It looks like some sort of mold, but does not wipe off.
I am wondering about re-cleaning it with acetone and then coating it with some kind of wax or other surface protection. I wonder if WashWaxAll would offer protection from the return of the "dingies"
The replacement black sounds good, but I would not like to tackle that job if it requires removing the door.
Duane,
I think I tried acetone, in a small area, when initially attempting a cleanup. It softened the plastic and left it sticky. Greased Lightning with a Scotchbrite pad did an excellent job. I changed mine out about a year later because it separated at the bottom corner and cracked near the door handle. Still looked good when I removed it.
We use Soft Scrub. Works great and non-flammable.
Interesting - thanks. I did not notice any softening of the plastic nor any stickiness after the acetone. What you think of the idea of using WashWaxAll to preserve the white?
I do think I will try the Greased Lightning and a Scotchbrite pad and maybe the Soft Scrub approach too.
I use Wash Wax All to maintain the gelcoat, paint, aluminum and chrome. Once the gasket is clean it might help it stay that way. If you get mildew stains probably not.
I've tried lots of things,
that all work, but some are more harsh on the gasket than others:
- Acetone works great but one must limit the stay time to just a few seconds or it will start to dissolve the gasket. And, one must resist the temptation to go over the gasket a second time.
- Several car white sidewall cleaners work (Wesley's and Brite White I know work well)
- I have used a Colgate toothpaste/Boraxo mix with a dishpan soft "scrubbie" that worked
Now, my REAL recommendations:
- Soft Scrub, as Dave has recommended. I used that for years until I discovered the next one:
- My best advice by far: JOMAX Mold and Mildew Stain Remover (True Value, Ace, HD, Lowes)
Follow with an application of a good car wax, inside and outside (Meguires, Mother's, Groitt's, any high quality Carnubba Wax)
I usually do mine only once a year and it doesn't deteriorate much over that time. I think that JOMAX followed by a good Carnubba provide the easiest preservation that resists future soiling the best.
FWIW,
Neal
You guys are all making me glad Xtreme changed out my white gasket for black last trip!
Update/Show and Tell/Before and After:
The last time that I cleaned our white door gasket, I didn't apply Carnauba Wax. I had intended to do it "tomorrow" and then I eventually forgot. As you can see, the organics had a great time with that procrastination. The whole gasket, inside and out, was nasty and I figured that my time had come to finally surrender it.
But I much prefer the look of the white gasket, so I recently got around to trying to clean the gasket. I found that my previous best (JOMAX/bleach/water solution) wasn't being 100% effective (light grey dots and residual stains were still left). Greased Lightning and Soft Scrub weren't doing any better either, and it was hard not to overlap the Soft Scub near any painted surfaces.
So back to Acetone. I had previously been very timid with Acetone solvent on the door gasket.
This time, I found that by using a shop (paper) towel, folded six layers thick (so that the acetone couldn't evaporate rapidly) and then scrubbing vigorously, every bit of the organic growth could be removed. It is important to use Nitril gloves and to keep refolding the towel to keep a clean towel surface in play.
There is a gooey residue that develops. I had previously thought that this was base gasket material being lifted, indicating damage to the gasket. It is apparently not base material at all, but just the organic and oxidized surface material that is being dissolved. Once all of the "goo" is lifted and transferred to a paper towel, the base material is as stable, hard and glossy as gel coat.
I guess that all makes sense as organic chemists and chemistry labs use acetone solvent to clean lab surfaces, glassware and tools as liberally as we use soap and water.
Acetone is not harmful to gel coat and it is much easier to use near paint edges than abrasives such as Soft Scrub or abrasive pads.
Note: Acetone will soften some paints and plastics, so it should not be "scrubbed" on any painted or plastic surface without careful trial.
I thought that others might benefit and be able to preserve their white gaskets a bit longer,
Neal
Looks new! Did you apply the wax this time? :)
Looks great! Mine was ripped from folks using the gasket as a "door handle" so it needed to be changed.
Good off worked slowly and well
Thanks Neal. I will give that a try before replacing mine for sure.
Mark
Wow! ^.^d Perhaps I could get you to "demonstrate" how to do that on my coach. :)) Our door gasket looks very much like "before."
Bob,
In the past, I've had good experience with using Meguires Carnauba waxes on the white door seal.
But, I've been using the Aero Cosmetics, Wash Wax All (WWA), Rubber Care product almost exclusively on my tires and rubber gaskets the past couple years (except when I forgot to treat the white door seal, the last time I cleaned it).
I really like how it works and stands up, especially on tires, so I used that this time. The WWA Rubber Care product has no petroleum distillates, has UV block, isn't oily and has surfactants that shield against attracting dirt and buildup, goes on without over-spray consequences and stands up well on the coach, motorcycle, and boat rubber and plastic, including tires.
It's a little more expensive, but, like Wash Wax All, once you've used it on a clean surface and experience the quality of the protection provided, you don't mind the price.
Hey Dave,
Drop by and we'll do this! (For the door gasket, first step is acetone instead of Belly Wash)
www.youtube.com/watch?v=jEerHjSj3is (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jEerHjSj3is#ws)
Neal
Well, after reading this, I'm glad Neal took time to explain the details..
However, from years of work on cars and boats, "my brain" tells ME to stay away from Acetone for health reasons.
Sure, I might be wrong, but, ... what I remember and what I 'follow' is that acetone will go thru your bare skin and do liver damage..
NOW please understand what I just put out here is old info... however I have since this news, always use latex gloves and absolutely rarely use Acetone... but frequently us Lacquer thinner. To me, it is less harmfull but just a tad less effective ... I'm oK with that.
No doubt about it, Ron.
Acetone is a dangerous, flammable solvent that must not be disrespected.
Even though acetone's most well-known use is in nail salons, it also appears in many other uses.
Here are just a few examples:- Printing – as a cleaning solvent
- Adhesives – most commonly in carpet binding adhesives
- Wood Stains and Varnishes – very common in wood stains and varnishes as well as their solvents
- Paint Stripping – as a solvent
- Polystyrene Manufacture – for polystyrene production
- Machinery Manufacture and Repair – as a metal cleaning solvent
- Chemistry, Dental, Hospital and other Labs – as a cleaning solvent
- SBR Latex Production – as a solvent
- Electroplating – as a vapor degreaser and cold-cleaning solvent
Safety Tips- Make sure the area in which the acetone is used is well-ventilated
- Prevent skin absorption - wear nitrate safety gloves every time you use acetone
- If prolonged use, indoors and out, use ventilation masks (not dust masks)
- If you work with acetone on a surface, make sure the surface does not soak up and retain the liquid acetone
- Thoroughly ventilate and dry cleaning rags/towels/materials prior to disposal
- Flammable as a liquid and a vapor. Do not use near open flames or where sparks may occur
- Dilute spilled acetone with large quantities of water
Treat with respect!
Neal
Seems anything that works good is dangerous.
I use MEK for most things, yes it is dangerous also
SafeSolv is another of the several products made by the manufacture of Wash Wax All, Aero Cosmetics. They have a complete line of products to care for the interior and exterior of your aircraft and now RV.
SafeSolv will safely clean and whiten the rubber gasket around the door and then treatment with RubberCare will keep it that way. Apply RubbeCare as per the instructions for caring for your tires in the video.
See washwax.com for more info. Hope this helps those with the white gaskets.