Foretravel Owners' Forum

Foretravel Motorhome Forums => Foretravel Tech Talk => Topic started by: Barry & Cindy on September 14, 2012, 09:25:08 pm

Title: M11 drain plug stripped threads
Post by: Barry & Cindy on September 14, 2012, 09:25:08 pm
A friend with Cummins M11 engine removed his steel drain plug from the engine's aluminum drain pan to change engine oil.

I saw ALL the threads come out when the plug was reinserted.  Now he had a serious problem. 

I think it may be impossible to prevent eventual thread stripping, even by using a torque wrench to install drain plug.  Aluminum is just too soft to hold perfect threads over many years of removing a steel drain plug several times a year.  I think all M11 owners should carry a new insert, drill & tap, so when it does strip, parts will be available for a tech or owner to install as the coach will be down until the right parts can be found.

Rubber expansion plug was first used as an emergency plug, but later it was learned that expansion plugs do not work.  A few years ago, a Foretravel owner's expansion plug slipped out with hot oil burning his fingers.  So a better solution had to be found.

Cummins drain plug insert part number 68749 ($49), drain plug part number 3055069 ($10.80) and brass washer part number 67946 ($2.90) was purchased.  Drain hole drilled/reamed out to 1-1/4" and NPT tapped, insert installed with Loctite and now there is a new steel hole to accept a steel drain plug.

It seems that there are two styles of inserts, with and without a shoulder for a wrench.  Shoulders are preferred because they can be wrenched into place, locked against drain pan and can be held in place when removing drain plug, to prevent the insert from coming out with drain plug.  Cummins part number now does not have a shoulder, but we were told that Cummins used to have a shoulder insert.

Photo shows insert with shoulder.
Title: Re: M11 drain plug stripped threads
Post by: John S on September 14, 2012, 11:35:55 pm
I had that happen to my coach this spring. THey had to order in the part to fix it. IT was at Cummins in fact. I had the oil changed there many times but I think after time it just will happen.
Title: Re: M11 drain plug stripped threads
Post by: Don & Tys on September 14, 2012, 11:41:33 pm
Do you know if the 8.3 ISC has the same issue? Or is the pan on that made out of steel... If it is aluminum. then this has to go on the list of spares!
Don
A friend with Cummins M11 engine removed his steel drain plug from the engine's aluminum drain pan to change engine oil.

I saw ALL the threads come out when the plug was reinserted.  Now he had a serious problem. 

I think it may be impossible to prevent eventual thread stripping, even by using a torque wrench to install drain plug.  Aluminum is just too soft to hold perfect threads over many years of removing a steel drain plug several times a year.  I think all M11 owners should carry a new insert, drill & tap, so when it does strip, parts will be available for a tech or owner to install as the coach will be down until the right parts can be found.

Rubber expansion plug was first used as an emergency plug, but later it was learned that expansion plugs do not work.  A few years ago, a Foretravel owner's expansion plug slipped out with hot oil burning his fingers.  So a better solution had to be found.

Cummins drain plug insert part number 68749 ($49), drain plug part number 3055069 ($10.80) and brass washer part number 67946 ($2.90) was purchased.  Drain hole drilled/reamed out to 1-1/4" and NPT tapped, insert installed with Loctite and now there is a new steel hole to accept a steel drain plug.

It seems that there are two styles of inserts, with and without a shoulder for a wrench.  Shoulders are preferred because they can be wrenched into place, locked against drain pan and can be held in place when removing drain plug, to prevent the insert from coming out with drain plug.  Cummins part number now does not have a shoulder, but we were told that Cummins used to have a shoulder insert.

Photo shows insert with shoulder.
Title: Re: M11 drain plug stripped threads
Post by: Barry & Cindy on September 15, 2012, 12:11:02 am
Our Cummins C8.3 engine has a steel drain pan and the M-11 drain plug problem does not apply to our coach.
Title: Re: M11 drain plug stripped threads
Post by: John S on September 15, 2012, 07:14:22 am
THe none RV drain pain is steel as well.  They made the RV pan for extra clearance and to reduce weight....
Title: Re: M11 drain plug stripped threads
Post by: gam on September 15, 2012, 07:42:19 am
On my 8.3 I installed a oil drain valve item t-203n $47.00 on ebay . Makes changing oil e-z . Gam
Title: Re: M11 drain plug stripped threads
Post by: Kerry on September 15, 2012, 08:54:47 am
We installed this on our 8.3 but they do have one for your application. Here is a link...Cummins (http://www.quickoildrainvalve.com/searchresults.asp?cat=239) It is the same one as "Gam" posted either a T-203 ora T- 203n (nipple on it).
And without dropping the oil pan you might try this 1/2"-20 Double Oversize Piggyback Oil Pan Drain Repair Plug 0.532 Thread 1005 | (http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=221092236524&item=221092236524&lgeo=1&vectorid=229466) These self tapping double piggyback plugs.
Title: Re: M11 drain plug stripped threads
Post by: Duane Budd on September 15, 2012, 09:08:52 am
Certainly makes a good case for installing a oil drain VALVE!
Title: Re: M11 drain plug stripped threads
Post by: El_Dorado on September 15, 2012, 11:15:54 am
Heli-coil would do the trick too... easy to find at any car parts store and the new threads will be stainless, mutch better than plain steel in conjunction with aluminum......
http://youtu.be/RFYa6sjhh_E (http://youtu.be/RFYa6sjhh_E)
Title: Re: M11 drain plug stripped threads
Post by: Barry & Cindy on September 15, 2012, 01:58:56 pm
OEM screw-in drain plug have advantages:
1) drain plug magnet to attract stray metal in engine oil
2) quicker drain through larger opening to move any debris from bottom of pan.

I didn't care for Fumoto T-203n quick drain plugs because they are taller than regular drain plug and could be damaged from road debris.
http://www.qwikvalve.com/fumoto-t203n-valve.html (http://www.qwikvalve.com/fumoto-t203n-valve.html)

The following is from Fumoto instructions:
1) Drive carefully at all times, and if you run over any foreign object on the road pull over and check the valve for any damage or leak.
2) N-Series valve (with nipple to accept hose) is not recommended for passenger cars with low clearance.

We like the advantage of not cross-threading threads, and are using Femoco Compact drain plugs on our motorhome engine, generator & previous Jeep.
No Spill Engine, Oil and Fluid Drain Plug & Valve System - No-Spill™ (http://www.nospillsystems.com/)
Title: Re: M11 drain plug stripped threads
Post by: Don & Tys on September 15, 2012, 02:41:36 pm
That looks like a good system. Two questions for you: 1. Which Drainer did you choose and do you use the same drainer for all your applications? 2. It looks like all the sealing happens at the spring valve... from the website, I can't see how the magnet comes into play. Is it on the stopper which has the O-ring sealing surface? If so, is it relatively easy to check and clean the magnet? I guess that is more than two questions... Oh well, may as well throw in another. If the dust cap doesn't provide a secondary seal, do you feel that the spring system is absolutely reliable? Well, of course you do or you wouldn't use it!
Thanks, Don

OEM screw-in drain plug have advantages:
1) drain plug magnet to attract stray metal in engine oil
2) quicker drain through larger opening to move any debris from bottom of pan.

I didn't care for Fumoto T-203n quick drain plugs because they are taller than regular drain plug and could be damaged from road debris.
http://www.qwikvalve.com/fumoto-t203n-valve.html (http://www.qwikvalve.com/fumoto-t203n-valve.html)

The following is from Fumoto instructions:
1) Drive carefully at all times, and if you run over any foreign object on the road pull over and check the valve for any damage or leak.
2) N-Series valve (with nipple to accept hose) is not recommended for passenger cars with low clearance.

We like the advantage of not cross-threading threads, and are using Femoco Compact drain plugs on our motorhome engine, generator & previous Jeep.
No Spill Engine, Oil and Fluid Drain Plug & Valve System - No-Spill™ (http://www.nospillsystems.com/)
Title: Re: M11 drain plug stripped threads
Post by: John Haygarth on September 15, 2012, 03:02:06 pm
Don I think you have a few things mixed up in your question.
  Barry was saying the drain taps do not have the added advantage of the magnet effect  and some do not allow fast drain (to get all contaminates out with the oil).
He feels the one he chose is a middle of the line in that at least the oil comes out faster.
That is the way I read it and if I am wrong-sorry, and I will shut up!!
John
Title: Re: M11 drain plug stripped threads
Post by: Bill Willett on September 15, 2012, 03:16:23 pm
A friend with Cummins M11 engine removed his steel drain plug from the engine's aluminum drain pan to change engine oil.

I saw ALL the threads come out when the plug was reinserted.  Now he had a serious problem. 

I think it may be impossible to prevent eventual thread stripping, even by using a torque wrench to install drain plug.  Aluminum is just too soft to hold perfect threads over many years of removing a steel drain plug several times a year.  I think all M11 owners should carry a new insert, drill & tap, so when it does strip, parts will be available for a tech or owner to install as the coach will be down until the right parts can be found.

Rubber expansion plug was first used as an emergency plug, but later it was learned that expansion plugs do not work.  A few years ago, a Foretravel owner's expansion plug slipped out with hot oil burning his fingers.  So a better solution had to be found.

Cummins drain plug insert part number 68749 ($49), drain plug part number 3055069 ($10.80) and brass washer part number 67946 ($2.90) was purchased.  Drain hole drilled/reamed out to 1-1/4" and NPT tapped, insert installed with Loctite and now there is a new steel hole to accept a steel drain plug.

It seems that there are two styles of inserts, with and without a shoulder for a wrench.  Shoulders are preferred because they can be wrenched into place, locked against drain pan and can be held in place when removing drain plug, to prevent the insert from coming out with drain plug.  Cummins part number now does not have a shoulder, but we were told that Cummins used to have a shoulder insert.

Photo shows insert with shoulder.

Barry, the insert looks to be the same as the one Cummins uses on the plastic pan in the Country Coach with the ISL370,they use a steel backing plate on the inside of the pan, if not careful removing the drain plug the insert will come out.

Title: Re: M11 drain plug stripped threads
Post by: Don & Tys on September 15, 2012, 03:23:43 pm
You may be right John! On the other hand, the No Spill Systems website has the following;

Exclusive Design Features

Spring House:   Inner coring extends only to the thickest part of the hexagonal body for strongest construction
Oil Pan Threads:   Machined the full length for maximum strength and security
O-Ring Seal:   Protects threads from contamination Assures 'on/off' action of dust cap and drainer
Single Bridge:   Improves the gravity drain speed by 200% Reduces strain on vacuum draining Eliminates tapered valve sticking open after draining
Precision Fit:   No-Spill plugs are made in over 500 sizes and thread patterns Sizes range from 12mm, 1/4NPT, 1/2UNF to 2" diameters all thread patterns (UNF, UNC, NPT, BSP, Metric) Custom sizes available
Magnets:   On all Standard and Speed Click Design plugs. Attracts and holds metal debris preventing their circulation in the lubrication and/or hydraulic system.

Their spec sheet does mention magnets... but your right, I don't see how it could possibly drain as fast as the OEM drain plug (absent a vacuum that is),
Don
Don I think you have a few things mixed up in your question.
  Barry was saying the drain taps do not have the added advantage of the magnet effect  and some do not allow fast drain (to get all contaminates out with the oil).
He feels the one he chose is a middle of the line in that at least the oil comes out faster.
That is the way I read it and if I am wrong-sorry, and I will shut up!!
John
Title: Re: M11 drain plug stripped threads
Post by: Barry & Cindy on September 15, 2012, 04:38:49 pm
We ordered the straight Femco drainer and sampler and use the same drainer on all vehicles.

We are aware of the advantages of OEM drain plug, that is magnet & faster, better flow, but decided to forgo those two advantages to eliminate OEM drain plug problems.

We think the Fumoto hanging down can be a problem.

We decided on the Femco product line, but was not aware that the Standard may have a magnet. (but how can the metal debris be cleaned off?) We chose the Femco Compact line because it does not stick down any lower than the OEM drain plug.

The hand tightened dust cap does act as a secondary leak seal.

We have not had any problems with Femco, but we think the oil drain flow is quite a bit slower than OEM drain plug.
I unscrew dust cap, screw on drainer which reaches into our temporary Rubbermaid container oil pan (cleans up with detergent so container can be used to again hold our 'stuff').

Drainer hose prevents wind from blowing oil around while draining.

Because we don't have ideal places to drain our oil, we have reduced the 'mess' of funneling the used oil back into gallon containers. We buy new Lowe's (or Home Depot) 5-gallon pails and lids (about $4) for each oil change. Without using a funnel, we then pour the Rubbermaid 'drain pan' contents into the wide top of the 5-gallon pails with much less potential mess. Lids seal very well.
If Walmart or auto parts stores don't accept used oil, an auto garage often will take our filled 5-gallon pails. We always leave the 5-gallon pails and buy new next time.
Title: Re: M11 drain plug stripped threads
Post by: Don & Tys on September 15, 2012, 06:45:34 pm
I am going to be changing all the fluids when I put our coach back on the road (hopefully soon!) and so am looking at the options for making future oil changes as painless as possible. I am leaning towards Barry's choice of the femco compact product after looking to see what the clearances are. From what I see, the skid protection cage barely extends below the oil pan, of which the drain plug is the lowest point, or certainly would be with the Fumoto option. May I ask, how much lower than the oil pan does the nipple extend? The vulnerability of the oil pan has me considering fabricating some extra protection while I have it up on the blocks. I don't plan to go off roaring, but you just never know... ;D
Don
We installed this on our 8.3 but they do have one for your application. Here is a link...Cummins (http://www.quickoildrainvalve.com/searchresults.asp?cat=239) It is the same one as "Gam" posted either a T-203 ora T- 203n (nipple on it).
And without dropping the oil pan you might try this 1/2"-20 Double Oversize Piggyback Oil Pan Drain Repair Plug 0.532 Thread 1005 | (http://www.ebay.com/itm/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=221092236524&item=221092236524&lgeo=1&vectorid=229466) These self tapping double piggyback plugs.
Title: Re: M11 drain plug stripped threads
Post by: Dave Head on September 15, 2012, 08:50:55 pm
I had a Femco on my C 8.3 and loved it..
Title: Re: M11 drain plug stripped threads
Post by: John Haygarth on September 15, 2012, 08:57:00 pm
Don, if it was me while you have it on blocks and metal and welder handy I would frame under the  pan but leave a hole for the drain valve to go in and tube. You can never be too careful
John h