Reading Rick D's posting, makes me want to own a multiplier wrench like X-12.
What model X-12 should we get for our motorhome (stud-piloted Budd lug nuts)?
( X-12 Original, 568 or Plus )
TIA Products - Providing Lug Nut Wrenches That Work (http://www.times12.com/)
What 1" drive socket size should we choose ( 1-5/16", 1-1'2" or 1-5/8" )?
Are there other competing products that have advantages over the X-12?
Thanks
There is this one that I found while looking a while ago. Don't know anything about it though. It's only $160.00 as opposed to the X-12 at $619.00 Not as pretty but a lot cheaper.
Keith
Welcome To LugWrench.Biz (http://lugwrench.biz/)
Barry, It depends on the type wheels you have, the hub pilot and the stud pilot types. Would measure to determine actual size, I do not recall the size, I just go to the socket drawer and get the right one, then use the air impact wrench and off it comes or goes on, gotta keep it simple.
The stud pilot uses two different sockets, the inner has a square head.
Dave M
Stud piloted are 1 1/2" (square for inside rears) - Hub piloted are 33mm.
I use a combination socket I bought from NAPA. It does both the nuts and the inner square bolts. I am on the road right now or I would post the part number.
Barry,
My X-12 is the "original" version. It is a high quality tool that delivers repeatable results. Some of the import versions with the high reduction ratios of 58:1 and some with 78:1 are great for removal but on installation the input torque would be less than 10 ftlbs. Not sure what friction losses would amount to in those units but some testing could prove those to be less expensive alternative to the X-12. The X-12 advertises a 10x factor for installation and when I had my torque wrench tested a few years ago at work I also tested it with the X-12 and it was very close to the 10x factor.
My 1995 U-300 uses "stud located, ball seat mounting" on the wheels, I also have inner and outer aluminum wheels on the duals. For my coach the outer nut size is 1 1/2" and the inner is a 13/16 square. Measure to be sure for yours.
The plus model has a splined socket that allows the inner square nut to be held while the outer nut is unscrewed. I think that complicates the availability of sockets. If the inner nut wants to come off with the outer nut you need to use the Budd Nut Wrench.
"Use when cap nut and inner nut turn together. Place hex over the 1½" cap nut. The arm bumps the next stud to stop the cap nut from turning. First tighten the inner nut, then remove the cap nut nut using the X-12 wrench. Requires ½" clearance between the cap nut and axle cover.
Price $14.00"
I had no problems with any of my wheels with regard to the inner and outer nuts sticking together.
I did find 2 improper studs that were installed on my coach.
My son now has posession of my X-12 once he found out how well it worked on his heavy equipment so I am looking for another one so I don't have to "borrow" it when I need it. On a job we worked I thought the X-12 would break or at least shear the shearpin as we were both leaning on a 3 foot extension on an 18" breaker bar to uncrank some bolts but it just cranked them loose without yeilding a bit. It advertises up to 3000 ft lbs but there may be a healthy safety factor there because I would guess we were above that. I may well end up with one of the imports and trading it back for my original X-12. Hopefully someone has tried one of the less expensive units and can give us a review.
Good luck with your decision or research,
Rick
I just use a Proto 500 ftlb torque wrench with a four foot handle (no multiplication) for torquing (lubricated nuts require 350 - 400 ftlbs).
I use a trucker breaker bar + pipe and forged multi tool (two hex nuts, one square) to remove.
Requires end of wrench to have a support underneath it - awkward but do-able.
I remove, clean, lubricate and re-torque nuts every couple years to keep them from freezing on.