Has anyone ever changed this water heater out for a GCH10-4E? I am wanting to go larger, but not sure if it is worth it. I am thinking of just replacing it and then buying an electric one and piping it in as an alternative if electric is available. Being a full timer in a mobile home park I have an extra 30 amp 220v plug. With the GCH10, which is a gas, electric, heat exchanger model. I think I would have my biggest problem with trying to run the wire to the new DUAL switch for gas vs electric. Any thoughts or opinions would be deeply appreciated. Thanks gang.
Curtis
Lots of people buy the hot rod Kit which put a heating element in the drain. Atwoods don't require a sacrificial anode. Just installing a new one is a huge improvement. My new ten gallon is quiet and the new insulation keeps hot water for 12 hours or more.
Ours came with a HotRod. It works great if you're plugged in but not anywhere near the recovery rate of the gas burner.
Pierce
Thanks for the responses. I will be calling Ickes RV in Montpelier, Indiana Monday morning. They will have several to choose from. I typically don't need much hot water, but if I have the room and Ickes has the price we will be going with GCH10A-4E. I haven't even tried to fire it up, due to the fact that a wire to the electrode assembly is cut and someone used tie wraps to hold the WH's thermostat, main burner, and pilot assembly in proper location. Just WoW! In the replacement of the WH it will mean the completion of all the major repairs on this RV. TTYL.
Curtis,
Seven years ago my 6 gallon unit sprung a leak and I had to replace it. I wanted to put in a 10 gallon but I didn't have time to rework the compartment. When we first moved to Idaho in January of last year we were fulltime in an RV park until we found a house. I installed a 20 gallon residential 120VAC electric unit in the basement close to the bulkhead where the OEM water heater is and plumbed it so the water flows through the 20 gallon unit first before entering the OEM 6 gallon unit. There are other smaller units but my search of reviews showed poor reliability on the wall mount style units and if I was going to add capacity I wanted to make sure it was enough.
I used a braided flex line for the input cold water and due to the high temperature I used PEX and sharkbite fittings to connect the two tanks together. I installed a spigot valve at the lower connector point for manual draining with a garden hose for future winterizing - which I used last winter. I passed all the lines through the existing bulkhead hole as I planned on the installation to be temporary but as of yet it is still installed.
We ran both heaters on electric and all I did was plugged the 20 gallon unit into the basement outlet so it's on all the time and controlled with it's own internal thermostat. I can't remember what else was on that circuit but at 16 amps for the heater you don't have much capacity left for any other loads. I didn't have any problems in that regard but I always kept that in the back of my mine and I think if I decide to make it permanent I think I will add a dedicated circuit.
I used a plastic plumbing strap (the kind with holes spaced out down the middle) to secure the tank to the bulkhead within 1-1/2 from the floor so screws in the strap would penetrate the steel tubing that runs along the bottom of the bulkhead.
The set up seems to work well. Obviously for boondocking the 6 gallon is plenty since we're conserving water anyway and the water passes through the 20 gallon unit unheated. When we are at an RV park in the winter its nice to take back to back showers without having to wait inbetween.
Mr. Fitzgerald,
Thanks for the info. I am in time constraints for the potential reconfiguration and potential problems. I was leaning to installing a tank-less water heater in-line to the new GH6-8E (96270). The reason for this is because where I am parked I have 100 amps; one 50 amp, one 30 amp (not used), and one 20 amp. My previous RV, I pulled the 6 gallon electric and ran a 29 amp 220V tank-less. Worked marvelous. The only thing that would have made it most versatile would be a gas-fired WH in-line with a tank-less WH. My opinion of course. Thanks again everyone.
Curtis
You may wish to verify what you have in the way of electric power. Verify that the circuits are independently wired rather than being on common wires that share different outlets. Also, verify that they are appropriately wired for your application. Check that the current ratings, voltage setting, connector polarity, neutral hookup, and ground wire are properly configured. Some folk have sustained significant damage connecting the RV cord to a "30 amp" outlet that was wired at 240V rather than the RV standard of 120V on a 30 amp connector.