Hello!
Since it's relatively cool outside here today my 1282 is hanging in there at 44F - but the freezer is much cooler at 5F
I've had enough of 1282's - this is my 3rd one. Two in our previous 1997 U295.
So this 1282 is gong to go (where DO you take them to dump?). And I will not get around to replacing it until Dec or Jan.
So I wonder about cutting a hole from the freezer/ice maker wall to the refrigerator and putting a fan on one side or the other? There sure is a LOT of COLD in the freezer. Pretty much going to waste.
best, paul
Do we assume you have had it serviced by a competent (if you can find one) reefer technician?
There is no reason that I can think of that would prevent you from using a hole saw from the bottom and cutting a nice big hole for more cold air. You might want to plan to cut one on each side so you can get proper convection, eh?
Save the pieces parts for the next owner who may wish to plug the holes.
You might put it on Craigslist for somebody to tinker with, as a method of disposing of it.
Might make enough back to cover the service call.........
If all else fails, there is The Freecycle Network (http://www.freecycle.org) and somebody will haul it away for you.
Paul,
Just curious, are the fins in the refrigerator side cold enough to have frost on them or are they wet, just sweating?
Just curious, are the fins in the refrigerator side cold enough to have frost on them or are they wet, just sweating?
No frost. No sweat.
best, paul
Just started loading up our new samsung with 25 CU. Ft. of capacity and it is COLD! It is making Ice and has cold filtered water. We are happy campers (at least with regards to the fridge.
The Dometic is in the garage any takers??
Just started loading up our new samsung with 25 CU. Ft. of capacity and it is COLD! It is making Ice and has cold filtered water. We are happy campers (at least with regards to the fridge.
Yeah. We're going electric, too.
best, paul
This is what an expert opined (from afar):
With the temp given, gives signs of a cooling unit that has been changed out or replaced before with air leak around the foam pack or thermistor problems.
He also said:
As you open the out Side vent door the main power supply PC board will be the Black Box. Remove cover, the very small 2 wire plug would be the thermistor, unplug it. This will allow the refrig to get as cold as possible and maintain as cold as possible all the time till your testing is completed.
As I looked at the "black box" I saw the screw securing it had a head I did not recognize or have a screw driver for. My son will be over tomorrow - he has about every tool imaginable.
Perhaps a work around is possible until I toss the 1282: (1) Unplug thermister. (2) When refrig is cold turn it off. (3) Turn refrig on when needed
best, paul
The ideal temperature for your fridge is 34 degrees and for the freezer is 0. Your temperatures should be colder in both, so cutting holes may not help.
How is the door gasket? Even very small air leaks will render high refer/freezer temperatures. I had to repair the door seal on my Dometic 7832.
Having replaced the cooling unit in my fridge (twice) in January/February, I believe that sealing is not an easy job such that most replaced cooling units are not sealed properly. I used expanding foam three times with long home made tubes to get the foam where it was needed. This job took several hours and involved injecting foam every half inch, from the back of the fridge and from the inside.
My fridge will now freeze milk if it is set to #5.
When I arrive about mid to late November, I could visit you and look at your fridge - proper sealing is possible and may solve your problems at much lower cost than replacing.
Thanks, Wyatt. But we will not be back in country until Dec
1. I'll let you know after we arrive (who knows what will happen to change our plans ;)
The door gasket appear to be good. So good it is hard to open the door some times.
At this point I've disconnected the Thermister. Fridge temp went from 44F to 45F - but that could have been the effect of the Sun. It's back to 44F now. It will be interesting if it goes any lower.
Freezer is currently 10 below zero. Unfortunately, I did not think to check its temp when I disconnected the thermister.
So does this suggest the cooling unit is OK but the fridge sealing is bad?
I don't know if the previous owner had a fridge/cooling unit replaced.
best, paul
For the fridge part to be too warm while the freezer is very cold there is something interferring with fridge cooling. This could be not enough thermal mastic between the pipes and fins in back of the fridge such that heat transfer out of fridge is slowed down. The other problem could be air leaks into the fridge at the back due to a small gap between the cooling unit foam and the fridge foam. In the back of the fridge are cooling fins which are held against the cooling unit pipes with a few screws. The screws are visible from inside the fridge. If you feel brave, remove the cooling fins and see what it looks like behind.
I will ask Hillside Propane in Enderby about cooling unit problems causing cold freezer with warm fridge next week and let you know.
Paul:
Steve at Hillside Propane in Enderby, BC indicated that below 0 in Freezer with 44 in fridge is just within the expected, particularly when outside temperature is above 100F. Your refer is probably working as expected given it's age.
Steve's questions were:
Have those temperatures changed over the life of the refer, or changed suddenly, recently?
Has your fridge ever been run off level?
Is there an ammonia smell, inside/outside fridge or coach?
Steve's suggestions were:
Check the gap between the wall and the fins of the condenser, which is near the top of the fridge, just under the roof vent. If gap is more than an inch, a lot of air is bypassing the condenser cooling fins and installing a sheet metal shield which forces more air over the fins will increase cooling effect. Some folks have installed fans to force more cooling air through the fins with good success.
The other much more complicated adventure is to measure the temperatures of various components of the cooling unit and comparing to expected. I will send much more info if you wish to do this exercise. I did it with mine and learned volumes about how absorption refers function.
Thanks, Wyatt.
At the time temps outside were in the low 70s
Note long after the temps I sent you earlier, the refrigerator temp was 28F.
I'm beginning to suspect the refrigerator starts to act better after a restart. I wonder if this might be equal to a re-boot of the PC board - which might point to it as the problem...
Not by me.
No.
Can't check this now as FT is in the shop. But I've had a fan operating outside for some time.
Thanks, but I probably won't have time before Nov when we go to Mexico. First priority is to get a solar panel installed to maintain battery charge while FT is in storage. Refrigerator will be off while we are in Mexico. And is off now in shop.
See you in Dec or so.
best, paul
I would replace the control board with a Dinosaur Board (probably Micro P-711), which is what I did.
The Dometic boards do fail.
I found one on eBay for about $125, while at an RV dealers it was about $275.
FYI
Freeze temps should be 0F or below and fridge temp 40F or below for safe storage. Bacteria don't become dormant above 0F.
These propane fridges seem to have a mind of their own when it comes to temperature control.
Keith