I wanted to let everyone know about my genset radiator mod I did with my son today. Just in case anyone else is having the same problem.
It started with the original owner within the first year of service. During the ten years he owned it he had the radiator replaced because of leaks four times. He also had it repaired numerous times. Since I bought the coach in May 2010 I have had the radiator repaired twice and replaced twice. The problem is that the radiator is mounted to the engine and that causes terrible vibration from the three cylinder Isuzu. It wears out the radiator mounts and causes leaks in the radiator. Normally the leaks occur at the lower radiator neck. After much discussion with Gary Omel, My brother and Powertech themselves, we decided the only fix was to separate the radiator from the engine. Today we accomplished just that.
Here is how we did it. First I ordered two brand new radiator mounts from Item No: KR-60-1 [Flat-Head Neoprene Compression Mount] (http://www.reidsupply.com/sku/KR-60-1/). I had previously replaced the generator mounts and still had the old ones. I used the old mounts to support the radiator support bracket. I mounted and marked all the mounts before cutting it loose from the engine so the radiator would be in the same position when it was separated from the engine. I bought some steel from Lowes to make the upper radiator supports and the strap that is bolted across the top of the radiator. I removed the entire front mount from the engine prior to cutting. After cleaning it all and painting it reassembly was easy.
Now that the radiator is separated from the engine the genset runs soooo smoothly with almost no vibration being felt by the radiator. I believe with this mod I should not have anymore issues with the radiator again. Thank God. The problems we had this past summer in Texas were terrible and really messed up our travel plans.
Anyhow I hope this helps someone out there. Have a blessed week.
Regards , Mark Z
Great job Mark!
Richard B.
Mark, nicely done and looks well thought out. This type of improvement is the best because you know that you have conquered a problem and won't have to think about it any more. ^.^d
That sure does look good Mark and should not create any more headaches for you. Great work and fabricating
A great job, and I'm putting it on my list. My radiator shows signs of being vibrated a lot and was clearly replaced before I got it, so separation would be a good idea. Did you put in more flexible hoses?
I did not do anything with the hoses. They are new and they are not flexing much at all.
Mark Z
I guess they must have seperated them on anything newer than 99 as mine has the rad in the side compartment under driver.
John h
May be a coach model issue rather than year model issue. Our 1996 U295 has a four cylinder Kubota engine that drives the 10KW generator. The radiator on ours is also in the side compartment. A 120VAC electric fan blows air through the radiator.
Early Foretravel U270 models efficiently used a 3 cylinder 8kw generators which has room for the radiator in the generator compartment with an engine belt driven fan. Other models used 10kw generators that did not have room for a belt driven fan and radiator, so the radiator had to be remotely mounted taking up an available compartment and requiring a separate 120-volt blower.
Very nice job! -- falls under that comment I made under a different thread, that as a newbie owner with a tech background -- now bringing my U300SE back to life, I'm running across things that should have been done right the first time.
You've made me want to pull out my Power Tech and look at the radiator mounting.
Regards,
Michael
Mark,, You and your son did an excellent mod. I'm sure that problem is now solved. You might consider one more step. Look into adding a rubber cushion at the base of the brace (or at the top), to allow the radiator to float more freely.
This is a mod that early U270 and ALL,, U285 owners, should consider.
Gary O
Mark, Pretty slick. Makes you wonder though about all those high priced engineers that should have considered the mounts when originally designed.
Gary B
Funny, but alot of companies do their engineering this way, throw it out there and see how it works. See where the warranty claims direct them. Then make changes as needed, this one reason for updates, newer revisions etc.
Some things work, some need radical changes, and some never work out.
I do like the mods for the shakey radiator :)
FWIW
Dave M
Mark, We have the same generator with probably same radiator mounting. Did your radiator just have 4 of those small rubber mounts with double headed bolts? Ours has two of them vertical from radiator to bottom steel extension. And two of them horizontal from fan cage to each side of generator. Does it sound like our setup is the same as yours with just 4 original rubber mountings? Thank you for your detailed mod info.
Barry,
My radiator has two mounts under the radiator. I used the old engine mounts (three of them) under the metal radiator mount for supports. I suppose you could use other materials for that but it is what I had on hand. It worked well for me and adds some additional isolation. The upper part of the radiator is attached with a couple of rubber mounts. I took them off at first because I didn't want any connections between the engine and radiator. It worked fine with no rubbing of the fan against the shroud. However I decided to put them back on for a added insurance against any contact with the shroud. It doesn't seem to transfer any additional vibration to the radiator. The main vibration came from the steel mount attached to the engine. I will attach some pictures of the engine mounts and the upper radiator mounts. Also my original post has a picture of the mounts for under the radiator. The two on the left are the new ones. The one on the right is the old one as you can tell it is shot. I put red lock tite on the studs I installed in the new mounts so they would not come loose. They are automotive studs I bought at ace hardware. Let me know if you need anything else.
I also attached a photo of the new radiator mounts installed prior to completing the rest of the modifications.
Mark Z
I would hazard a guess that the Isuzu gen came as a package and the Foretravel engineer merely provided the connections, the compartment, and the umbilicals necessary without going into the design of the generator cooling system itself.
Sometimes one has to go with the idea that a purchased component has been tested and refined.
I guess it's just the engineer part of me defending the Foretravel engineer that incorporated the Isuzu generator. He (or she) specified what was considered a reliable gen that met all criteria specified by management, demands, space, and the almighty dollar.
I am quite curious if this modification has held up over the last couple of years, since I am planning on copying your solution for leaking generator radiators?
Robert it has worked out perfect. I just got done redoing the insulation and powder coating everything.
Generator Insulation and general restoration (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=20639.msg151788#msg151788)
Mark
Thanks for the update.
Did you look at different type of vibration isolators when you re-did everything? I'm going to call PowerTech tomorrow and ask about using these.
Round Engine Mount 60-A by Power Tech | Power Technology Southeast Inc (http://powertech.myshopify.com/products/round-engine-mount-60-a)
Robert,
I had replaced my mounts with originals from Powertech. When I decided to cut loose the radiator I had the old mounts so I used them for the radiator support. I did not look into any other mounts. I did replace the original radiator mounts because they were shot. You could use about anything under the radiator I suppose because I doesn't move much after It is separated. Have fun and anything I can help you with let me know.
Mark