Hello,
We are going to Tiger Run for the week before Christmas. Of course it is going to be chilly. I have done some searching on the site to get some ideas on this cold weather camping. Any advice would be appreciated. I have a 1996 u295 (no aqua hot). I plan to take a couple of ceramic heaters to supplement if needed the propane, 40 watt bulb for the water compartment, a plastic tray for collection of the shoes near the front door, some bubble wrap for the single pane windows to increase the insulation, keep diesel and propane near full, use the tanks (to not use any exterior hoses except on intermittent basis). Thanks for the thoughts.
I would recommend getting a thermometer with a remote and locate the transmitter unit right next to the water pump head. The pump is usually the first thing that will freeze due to the small passageways inside. Do this and you won't have to wonder if your light bulb is going the trick or not - can really help put your mind at ease. Then you can easily bump up the furnace if necessary from the cozy inside of the coach if necessary.
I found my inverter quit working below 32 degrees. You might want one of those bulbs for that compartment.
Good to know! I would have thought it gave off enough heat to keep it from dropping below 32F.
Please update us on the experience! I've been toying with the idea of hitting Tiger Run or Steamboat Campground for some skiing with the family. I figure we may target some spring skiing so it probably won't be quite as cold, but you never know with Colorado weather!
It sounds to me like you are pretty well set up. I agree with the recommendation regarding the remote reading thermometers. We have a unit that supports three remote thermometers. I put one thermometer in the service entrance bay, one in the water pump bay and one in the big bay. The one in the big bay is not critical. Put the thermometers relatively low in the bays. There may be a big difference from the top of the bay to the bottom.
The 40W bulb may be a bit small for heat in the bay. A larger bulb or a "personal" ceramic heater (200W) may be appropriate. The thermometers will help you know what is required.
I installed adjustable grills for outlets for the rear furnace. I close them partially to force more heat into the bays when temperatures are below 20F. Before I installed the adjustable grills, I would put a box against one of the grills to effectively close it.
We carry a heated water hose so that we can reliably fill the fresh water tank if the campground has a fresh water supply. Dumping the tanks hasn't been a problem for us in cold weather. The water is warm enough and flows fast enough to keep from freezing.
Many campgrounds close for the winter or have limited services. That may affect your travel plans. The ones that are open may have limited access to water.
I usually leave the kitchen vent slightly open and leave the small passenger vent window slightly open. This allows fresh air to circulate and exhausts a bit of moist air.
We have double pane windows and usually don't use additionally window insulation. We also do not plug the ceiling vents nor the skylight.
We found that we burned about four gallons of propane per day when daytime highs were 10F and nighttime lows were 0 to -5F.
We plan to visit family in Missouri and Montana during the upcoming holidays. We have specific travel plans, but we keep in mind that weather may stop us at any time. We buy local diesel fuel on a daily basis while on the move in order to get local seasonal blends on board. We also try to keep enough food, fuel, and water to park for a few days at any place along the route. Bad weather can cause to you stop in order to remain safe. A "show stopping" mechanical problem in cold or bad weather can threaten your safety if you don't have sufficient supplies.
Enjoy your adventure.
All good and thanks, I will get the remote thermometer. I like also the idea for blocking the rear furnace vent to increase the heat down there. I did not know that the inverter would be affected by the cold. We are looking forward to the trip. I think it will be beautiful. I heard it was snowing there recently.
It was a shocker to me when it happened the one and only time I traveled in that cold weather coming home from nac. There is always something new to learn when it jumps out at you.
I had to pull into the rest stop to see what was happening and because it was becoming a white out.
Then we saw this on the table. I thought someone was planing a pig roast and changed there mind. :o
We have never encountered the issue of the inverter shutting down in cold weather. We have traveled in subfreezing weather. Our inverter is tucked into a cubby surrounded by the fuel tank, batteries, propane tank, and big bay. Over the cubby is living quarters. We are usually on 50A hookups overnight in very cold weather. When we are at destinations in Missouri and Montana in cold weather, we are in campgrounds with full hookups. We use the propane furnaces for most heat. We sometimes use ceramic heaters for additional local heat.
On one trip, we lost use of the front furnace (daubers ruined the burner) and so we used the generator to support a ceramic heater while dry camping overnight in a service plaza. We like to keep the interior of the coach around 70-72F in the winter.
We've not encountered a hog on a table at a rest area. That looks like something that might happen in west Texas.
You are correct. I believe it was on hwy 287 near Childress on the way thru Amarillo TX.
Been there and other cold places with no problems. I found it better to dump as soon as you get there and leave the valves open. If they freeze closed you will not get them open. If they freeze open run hot water to thaw them out. This is the only time I leave dump valves open, it works in snow country.
Take on fresh water during the day and empty the hose. If it freezes it's a problem.
Electric heaters are a great idea. You can place one in the water bay if needed. Aqua Hot coaches do better but have skied out of a propane heated coach with no problem other than getting low on propane.
Never thought of leaving the valves open but I would have to think twice about the black tank valve. I have been in single digits many times and even down to zero in the coach. I set the furnace at 68 and put an halogen work light in the bays and that kept them toasty warm. The issue is really the hole for the electric cord. I use a large sponge and make sure I put a light in that bay to help it along too. I have yet to have a problem....
Dori & I spent the entire winter in a campground in Denver last year. Luckily it was a pretty mild winter. We took most of the precautions mentioned above. Pirit heated water hose Amazon.com: PIRIT PWL-02-25 Water Line 25-Foot x 5/8-Inch Heated Water Hose: (http://www.amazon.com/PIRIT-PWL-02-25-25-Foot-Heated-Hose/dp/B002RODR1G/ref=sr_1_1?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1354981366&sr=1-1&keywords=heated+water+hose) look for one that has the thermostat at the facet end. Mine is at the outlet and I had to use a short piece of hose to insure it was on the outside of the bay and wasn't influenced by the wet bay temperature. Pack towels or sponges around the hose entrance to keep air infiltration to a minimum. Small ceramic heater Lasko Products My Heat Personal Heater - Walmart.com (http://www.walmart.com/ip/Lasko-Products-My-Heat-Personal-Heater/16503222) in the wet bay. I left my sewer hose connected but closed my sewer valves and opened them to dump. Never had a problem with them freezing but had the ceramic heater right next to them in the bay. Opened the heater vent in the bay and closed off one of the heater vents inside to push more air into the bay.
Also bring a plastic snow shovel. You'll want to keep the area around the door and the wet bay clear of snow. I kept about a 3 foot border around the coach clear. I even shoved the roof a couple times when we had a couple of feet of snow. A thick layer of snow on the roof slowly melting then freezing at night is almost a guarantee of water leaks. Be extremely careful on the roof it's slippery and dangerous! Push from the middle of the coach to the parameter. A 12 foot fall onto concrete is painful and probably damaging to body parts.
That said December is usually pretty mild (relatively speaking) with only light snow falls. Of course mother nature does whatever she wants so be prepared. The ski resorts bring in a lot of tax money so the DOT takes great care of the roads but with a big storm they can only do so much. Hunker down until the roads are clear if you can. The uphills are usually not a problem. The downhills on the other hand can get you in trouble real fast. If it's slick go slow and don't use the retarder (if you have one). As Dave M says the heavy end wants to go first. Don't give it a chance to do that. If you do end up driving in snow be sure to give the underside of the coach a good rinse to get the sodium chloride off when you get home.
Tiger Run is a great restort. Breckenridge ski resort is one of my favorites. The town of Breckenridge is as cute as they get. Winter in Colorado is gorgeous. You're going to have a blast!
see ya
ken
Edited to add picture for dramatic effect. :)
We use the No Freeze Water Hose. No Freeze Water Hose - Eliminate Water Line Freeze (http://www.nofreezewaterhose.com) It is high quality, and very sturdy. My understanding that it uses a temperature sensitive heating component. It does not have a thermostat in a specific place on the hose.
Some short lengths of "jumper hose" can help make connections. At our campground in Montana, the water hookup in the winter is about 18" below ground. The "jumpers" help connect the stiff heated hose to the faucet and inlet in the coach. The "jumpers" are in areas that remain above 32F.
We always run off our fresh tank, so did not need a heated water hose as I would wait for a sunny day to fill the tank and watch pretty close so that I would refill before it got real low in case we had a long run of below freezing temps. We spent the winter in a campground in Nebrasks for the winter of 2012 and had no issues. I filled the power cord access door with rags and insulation to keep out the wind and kept a 100 watt bulb in there.
One thing I don't see mentioned here, I have heated bays that seem to work well. The coldest I have stayed was just two weeks ago in Williams AZ over the Thanksgiving weekend. The temps dropped to 25 at night, and I never had a problem. we do have a heated hose, and the spigots coming out of the ground were insulated with an electrical wrap insulation. If it was colder would I have a problem?
I agree with Red tractor about the water hose. We spent January and February at Tiger Run a few years ago with night time temps on a few nights of 10 to 15 below zero and had no problems. We filled the tank on sunny days even when well below freezing. I would add that it was handy to have a short (about 10 ft long) filler hose that was easy to empty after using rather than using the long hose on the reel.
I ended up at 30 below in a 87 36 ored. Not good. Battery's outside as well as the tanks.
Bluebirds had battery and tank heating plates you should not need. Cold batteries have volts but lower amps. At -30 no electricity. New batteries.
The unicoach should be fine with the good info.
I maybe would put a gallon of automotive antifreeze in each holding tank myself.
I had the propane regulator freeze due to water vapor condensation in the tank forming ice.
Had to pour alcohol into a propane fill hose. Then fill the tank. And heat the valve.
The local sheriff at Taos asked what we were doing there in a nice Rv.
Met the founder of Taos in a restaurant on Christmas Eve. Lots of wine and when we left it was 20 below and a wind. I told him to zip up his jacket. He laughed as he had lived there forever he told me.
Saw in the paper a week later that he had died of pneumonia.
Zip up your jacket. Sorry for the hijack.
Bob
After spending two years in Goose Bay Lab., 2 years @ Loring AFB, northern, and I mean northern, Maine. I never never ever go where it stays colder that freezing more that one night.
Again Thanks,
I am getting ready for the trip. I went and got some rubber backed carpeted runners to put near the front door as well as a plastic boot tray, looks kinda like a large cookie sheet. I am going to put this by the front door for the snow covered boots (as we come in). Also got a thermostatic plug. This I was planning to put in the bays below to turn on the heat as needed (goes on at 35 and kicks off at 45). I have a hunting place in Illinois and have one of these next to the water well pump (enclosed) and it has served me well as I have never had a freeze with it.
Saw the pig, looks like some one shot it and then did not take it home? I live in Texas and have had them BBQ'd and they are pretty tasty (but truly some work).
Noted the sponge for the electric cord/utilities. Great idea! I was thinking about what would work there.
Auto antifreeze is not a bad idea. May get some and have on hand if gets very cold. Also like the personal heater idea. I will try to get a couple of those. I have a couple of those little ceramic cube heaters and planned to use them as needed to supplement the propane furnaces.
Does putting auto anti freeze in to our discharge water pollute the waste treatment water? Or do waste water treatment plants deal with that sort of problem? I know we are not to put it down the storm drains as that then pollutes the near by streams.
Thanks am on the way to run down some final items for end of week departure. Do I need chains? I realize that this is not an issue if not too bad weather. I have lived in Illinois where it does snow. I also have been skiing before and have seen them used. I was not going to get them unless I really needed them. I thought if too bad, I would just wait until roads cleared (or if necessary go to truck stop and get some on a prn basis). My brother bought some for his suburban some time ago and has never used them. I really don't want to buy something that is not needed just to haul around and take up space. Conversely, don't want to be thought of as foolish for not being prepared. Thanks, charles
I wondered about the car antifreeze also. Seems that to me in small amounts diluted with sewage, should not be a major issue. Going into storm drains, perhaps more. I can't answer definitively.
Good question about chains. Here is a link to road conditions and chain requirements, check as you go road reports.
http://www.tirechain.com/COLORADO-ROAD-CONDITIONS.HTM (http://www.tirechain.com/COLORADO-ROAD-CONDITIONS.HTM)
The law requires Commercial vehicles to carry or use services that supply chains when the conditions are bad per the CODOT. I have heard there are services that provide chains for up and over the pass trips, that install on one side, and remove on the other side. Not sure how that might work for coaches.
Passenger cars have rules as well, but did not see RV rules. We have skied many times in CO and the state does a remarkable job of keeping the roads to the lifts open. We have only ever had a problem getting out of parking lots after being parked for the week. One time our old GMC motorhome was frozen to the parking lot with all the snow melt that had drained off the roof during our stay. We had to get a Jeep to break us free from our ice dam around the 6 tires.
I would only use potable antifreeze used for winterizing - I think it's cheaper too. But it's really not necessary on a unihome/unicoach with the insulated bays.
Chains: I asked Foretravel: "do not use" emphatically. I carry them on my coach because it's legally required when crossing certain passes in Oregon during the winter season - which I have done. I've never used them and I don't think I ever will. I don't know if they would every really work since the clearance with the air springs and floor is so close. I purchased the cable style due to being a lower profile. I did get in a situation where I had to drive a pass during a snow storm with packed snow and ice on the road. The highway dept coated the road with "sand" made from lava rock. No problems, just have to drive very slow and easy on throttle and brakes with retarder "off". That was two years ago and I'm still finding some of that lava rock tucked away in spots under the coach.
Every little bit pollutes, use RV antifreeze instead, it is biodegradable.
Roland
ON the RV antifreeze, makes sense, thanks!
I don't think you need to worry about chains. The only time you really need them is if you get stuck in stop and go traffic. If you can keep your momentum going you will be fine. Avoid the Eisenhower tunnel rush hours of Friday afternoon/evening and Sunday afternoon and you should be ok.
If a storm comes thru hunker down and wait for the sun to come out. Once the sun is out it's amazing how quickly the roads clear.
see ya
ken
I do not know if there is clearance for chains on our coaches. There is not a lot of room between the air bag and the tire. The coach does well in snow though as the weight is over the drive tires. Turning is a bit of an issue at times though.
Regarding tire chains: My opinion, FWIW.
I drove an SOB coach on packed snow, over unplowed highways, and in dangerous conditions because the coach didn't carry enough propane and other resources to keep us safe in cold weather. I did not properly assess the travel risks, and put myself and wife in hazardous situations. I bought a Foretravel so I could "hunker down" rather than fleeing.
My current choice is the enjoy the local ambience if travel would require tire chains. I don't plan to carry chains.
Hi Charles...this sounds like a great trip! I hope you guys have a great time. You've got me thinking about it too, since we all love skiing. I just never considered using the coach in such low temps but it seems from reading comments here that it's entirely doable.
Hey, I'm sure you've thought of this but wanted to mention it anyway: replace your regular window washer fluid with the anti-freeze type. We learned this the hard way driving over vail pass a few years ago!
Safe travels,
Chris
Indeed! What a good recommendation, Chris.
You don't need antifreeze in the holding tanks if you are living in the coach and keeping the bays warm. However, you will need antifreeze in the windshield washer fluid. I generally buy 0F rated washer fluid any time of the year. That's the coldest rating I found at the local parts store. When we travel north in the winter, I try to get some fluid rated for lower temperatures. Even if the washer fluid remains liquid in the lines, it can hit the windshield and freeze immediately. That's an unpleasant experience!
Since I live in Galveston (which rarely gets below freezing and then not too much below when it does, I tend to forget those little things like windshield washer fluid. Not sure what is in there now, so will drain and refill, Thanks Chris. JD, I will try to go with the good weather. If need chains, then I think I will follow your sage advice and just stay put until it clears. Spent most of day getting ready for the trip. Should be ready to go soon!
Cold weather travel is an interesting way of going. I have spent time waiting out the weather and have gotten up very early to beat it... I second the idea of washer fluid check and also check that you have the heater bypass not turned off. If you are using propane to heat, you will need to crack a vent to prevent the water vapor from freezing on the windshield. You might also bring some extra towels to put at the bottom of the front window. IT will run water if is is really cold. ALso carry a hair dryer or two so you can get rid of ice that forms on the inside of the windshield. If you have just cold weather you will only need to crack a vent but if it is really down in the single digits then you will have other issues.
John, help me with that "heater bypass". I am not aware of it.
@John Any idea why the propane heat causes more water vapor? The propane itself is burned and vented externally (obviously). Is is something about the heat exchanger?
I experienced this first hand from the rain we had Sunday night here in Nac with temps in the high 30s. How do you full timers deal with it. I wiped the windows down with a towel. Can't believe how much water there was on the windows. I really don't want to have to do that everyday! I'm looking at using a small dehumidifier at night when ever thing is battened down. Good or bad idea? Hummm maybe that's why Arizona is so popular in the winter! I have the single pane windows. Do double pane have the same issue?
Coming from Colorado this humidity thing is new to me!
Sorry if I'm high jacking this thread...
see ya
ken
Ken,
In cold weather, we have to clear the windshield (inside) before we can start traveling. It will be covered with moisture or ice, depending on the temperature. A fan or ceramic heater blowing across the front of the coach will clear the window in a few minutes. Towels at the base of the window may be required to gather the water. As temperatures warm, there are often a few rivulets of water from the top of the windshield.
We frequent switch between "Defrost" and "Floor" settings on the dash heater in order to maintain comfort and vision while under way.
We seldom experience fogging or icing of the double pane windows.
Leaving the ceiling vent open a bit and one or two windows open a bit will help clear moisture, especially if the outside air is dry.
To clear the condensation from the WS in cold weather I keep a small squeegee ( same one I clean the shower door with ). Gets most of the moisture off then I can towel off the rest.
Gary B
Many things will cause the moisture your experiencing. Cooking, making coffee, moisture in the coach materials etc. Also people and pets emit a certain amount by just breathing. Turn on the heat and it will condensate on windows etc if the outside temps are cold enough.
Just crack a roof vent a little bit like J.D. says and it should help.
Dean
THere was a valve in my water manifold water heater area that was used to close off the waterheater bypass the heating of the water to send it up front.
RRadio commented in a post back on Nov 26th: " ...................... The cold weather has created a huge amount of condensation, even inside the walls of the coach. It has shorted out at least one light, which I don't need so I removed it, and is apparently draining the coach batteries every day. I'm trying to figure out how to get rid of the condensation. How do people camp in RVs in cold climates anyway? I think I'm going to pull out all the fuses and see if I can determine which circuit(s) are shorted. I think the cause of the whole problem is the condensation, so if I could get rid of that the short circuit(s) would probably go away... Anybody have experience with cold weather RVing and condensation problems?"
There were several responses; a good one IMHO was from John Duld: "A small dehumidifier (we set ours under the kitchen table) will dry out the coach overnight.
No more wet windows or walls. Much more comfortable with less heat. But you do need to have 120 volt power."
BTW- I believe a lot of folks are concerned about RRadio....... haven't heard from him in a long time now.
Ed Sievers, Foretravel owner (some day) and avid Foreforum reader.
We typically use ceramic electric heaters in the coach when we are hooked up on outside electric and temps are not below 25 degrees. But I have always been concerned what would happen in real cold weather if the propane furnace malfunctioned. I decided to install light bulb receptacles in the water bays to provide electric heat if needed. Last night it got down to 17 degrees here in Oklahoma. It stayed in a hard freeze for 16 hours. Wanting to test the two light bulb receptacles in the water bays I installed two 40 watt bulbs and was anxious to see how much heat they would add without the heat from the back furnace. I had remote thermometers in each bay and was very surprised that the 40 watt bulb did almost nothing to heat the bay They got down below freezing after only a couple of hours. I then installed 100 watt bulbs. The 100's did much better but still allowed the bay floor to go below freezing. When I fired up the back furnace the bay's temps went up over 40 degrees almost immediately. Some coaches use the front furnace to heat the bays but I believe that most use the rear furnace if the coach has two furnaces.
DON'T RELY ON LIGHT BULBS. Maybe the personal heaters or the Halogen lights will work but incandescent light bulbs won't cut it. IMHO
Last year we were in Amarillo down to 7 degrees. Used the rear furnace and had not problem with anything on the coach freezing.
I used a sall halogen shop light. Lots of heat from that.
I took Ken's advice and went and got the small personal heaters from Walmart. I got 2. They are 200 watt heaters that are either on or off (no thermostat). My concern with the light bulbs was that what happened if they burned out. I thought the extra expense (and added heat) would be worth it. So, again sage advice that I am thankful for. CKS
Hi Charles,
I use a couple of the no thermostat small heaters. I plug them to a Therma-Cube electric outlet. They turn on at 35 degrees, and shut off at 45 degrees. Inexpensive, accurate, and have worked well the past three years. Amazon, and others, sells them.
Raymond
That is exactly what I got a thermocube and a couple of those small no thermostat personal heaters. I was tempted to get the larger ceramic heaters but demurred as I was concerned that I may overload the circuits and break them. So max is 400 watts through both of the smaller heaters. I like the thermocube (like you say on at 35 and off @ 45). THANKS!
Hey Charles - I was wondering how the trip was going, especially with this big snow dump that you guys just had? Hope all is well! At least Colorado finally got some good snow!
I'm also anxious to hear!
I'm also interested in where the shuttle pick up location is relative to where you're staying? I had heard its a decent hike?
The trip has been wonderful, it has been cold, today was first day above freezing. The little personal heaters from Walmart have been just the ticket. The area (floor) in the coach above the compartment where they are located is warmer to my sock feet than the floor without the heaters below. I took advantage of the remote temp sensor on my satellite clock and put it by the water pump while the personal heater (opposite side) was by the hook ups. I think the lowest temp recorded was 43. I used a small ceramic heater in the front of the coach and the rear furnace sans electric heater in the front. The coach stayed between 65-70 which was comfortable. I did not hardly use the front furnace. The reason was mainly to use the electricity (provided by the park at no additional cost AND what I consider the most important, to keep the propane tank above 1/2 full. I was advised to refill if got below 1/2. If got below 1/2, the chafe of "freeze up" would be increased more as the level decreased. My neighbor also told me to not run dometic on propane as tends to freeze up. He has spent 14 winters up here! I would think rather sage advice. Also note kept blinds closed most of time. Did not use fee bus, but noted pick up was just outside park. BTW the coldest night got downto -14F. No frozen pipes or tootsies, got to love that FT. Again thanks to all, for whom so far has made this trip uneventful. Charles
Charles, how far of a walk would you say it is from your site to the shuttle pick up? 200 yards, more, less? Glad to hear all has gone so well!
Probably about 200 yards, note some spaces are obviously closer. Ours was nearer the front. I had and used toad. I reread my post and wish to clear the obvious misstatement on my part. Used propane furnace in rear and electric heat (small ceramic) in front. The front furnace was set to a lower temp that would only activate if the ceramic heater failed.
Charles, we're here in Breckenridge now (not in the coach, unfortunately). We drove out to Tiger Run to check it out and found a great campground! What a convenient spot, and so well maintained. Saw one Foretravel there, but it appeared no one was home. Thanks for highlighting the park for all of us.
One of the things that I thought was nice was the little cabins that they had to rent. These are nice places that compliment the FT in allowing more space to spread out the group. We rented one for a couple of days. It was close to the FT. Thanks to all that helped in the preparation for my trip that went overall very well. The cummins was a little hard to start when we got ready to leave. I did use the block heater overnight and end up borrowing the campground's battery charger starter to get it started. The batteries have been fine since we got back, but it is not as cold here as there. I will probably buy new batteries pretty quickly here but not a pressing problem now. No surprise, when it gets cold have to have strong batteries.
Those were great little cabins, Charles, and a bargain in my opinion. They were just over 1/2 the cost of the tiny condo we rented in town! They were all so well maintained and cute, as was the whole park.
Just for grins, I checked the price of a couple that were for sale: $300k! Once again, the Foretravel looks like a bargain too!
Hope to catch up with you on the island sometime in the new year...
Chris