I want to remove the bedroom air conditioner and replace it with a exhaust fan. That will leave the front air conditioner, microwave, refrigator, converter and a few small appliances running AC including a 27" TV. Seem to me I can change the coach over to 30 amps and use the smaller 30 amp AC cord instead of that monster I have now. What would be the down side doing this.
Michael,
Were it mine, I would just buy a 30 male to 50 female adapter and use a 30 amp cord rather than re-doing the electrical breaker box.
Worse case would be to hardwire the inlet with a 30 inlet and connect the two hots from the coach breaker box to the single hot of the 30 inlet.
I would think that for resale value you'd want to keep that 2nd AC. I would NOT buy a RV with one AC. Just my 2¢.
I had on my 270 a 30 amp cord that plugged into my 50 outlet on the coach. I used it when I was at thirty amp parks. It was lighter and easier to handle in the cold too.
I would not take out the AC. Most of the coaches have some form of exhaust fan.
Michael,
Difference between 30 amps (@120 volts) and 50 amps (@ 240 volts) is NOT 20 amps.
The difference between 30 & 50 amps is 70 amps, so by changing your coach cable from 50 to 30 amps you are reducing your capacity by 70 amps. Removing rear air conditioner removes only about 15 amps of drain.
With front air = 15 amps, microwave = 15 amps, converter/battery charger = 5 amps, refrigerator = 10 amps, etc., it sounds like a 30 shore cable could be overloaded on occasion.
Have someone make a short adapter with a round-locking female 50-amp connector on one end, and a 30-amp male plug on the other end. And use a regular 30-amp extension cable whenever you don't want to hassle with the heavy 50-amp cable. You will just have to manage what you are running at any one time and turn things off before you turn something else on. This way, you can easily go back to using the 50-amp cable if you change your mind in the future.
Removing a working air conditioner can be a problem on a hot day if your only remaining roof air stops working for some reason. Using an exhaust fan in place of a roof air is a good way to remove bedroom heat, if that is what your want to do.
Marinco and Conntek both make 1' long cords with the 50 amp locking female plug used on the coach on one end and a 30amp male RV plug on the other.
Amazon.com: ParkPower by Marinco 124ARV RV Electrical Power Cordset (50-amp (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NV0V5A?&tag=shopwiki-us-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=9325)
I like mine because it allows me to connect to a 30 amp cord inside the bay, out of the weather.
It seems like I paid $65 or so at a Campingworld.
hth
This one seems cheaper...I did not check the freight...
ParkPower 50 to 30 Pigtail Adapter - .99 (http://www.adventurerv.net/parkpower-pigtail-adapter-p-2722.html?osCsid=r8vvjd8ca5r4httnkdu1mmjev6&gclid=CN6HzJbMsbUCFckx4AodihwAug)
Agree with all.
Keep 2nd AC, don't try to reinvent the wheel. Just get an adapter if you wish. We all realize that there will be times that you do not need all of that AC. However, there may be times that you do. That is the thing about foretravel (quality motorhomes). They have built in a measure of safety with the 50 amp service. Especially since you have noted that you may change to the 10 cu ft refer from Lowes. Add that to the water heater, charger, one AC unit, microwave, etc. I am so glad that I have a 50 amp cord if I need that much power. I think you will be too.
I would add than in our 13 years of RVing (and following RV discussion forums), many times I have seen posts of someone asking how to upgrade from 30 to 50 amp and/or add a second air conditioner. This is the only time I have ever seen someone ask about "downgrading".
Michelle
Thanks for all the input ladies and gentlemen, but the air is coming down. I see no good way around it.
The reason I need to remove the air is because on the 29'er there is not much room for solar panels without them being shaded. I have seven 2' x 2' @ 50 watts each that needs to go up there. A shaded panels is not good. The vent will be a Fantastic Vent and used at night to cool down the bedroom area. The vent in the kitchen will also have to be changed to a Fantastic because it's also way to tall. I'll keep the condenser in storage for a spare.
I will get the adapter and leave the 50 amp wiring as is.
Michelle,
Does this mean I'm the first? I like being first. :)
Solar is a good reason to remove your A/C. We removed our Winegard crank bat wing TV antenna (sealed hole) to get more solar on the roof.
The 50 to 30 amp makes sense for anyone who does not want to wrestle with the heavy 50 amp shore cable and only needs 30 amps service. We bought a similar cable, except it has a 20-amp male in place of the 30-amp plug, and did not know about the 30 amp version.
Talk about 30 amp connectors, we have used an unique adapter that has a 50-amp female on one end and two 30-amp male plugs. It is Conntek 14995,
http://www.conntek.com/shoppic/201213145300.jpg (http://www.conntek.com/shoppic/201213145300.jpg) It has allowed us to connect our motorhome to two 30-amp campground outlets.
Care with this type of 'Y' adapter must be taken to keep each leg under 30 amps and the sum of both legs under 50 amps. Many of us have also made our own version of this adapter. When the two 30 amp campground outlets are on different sides of electric service transformer, power is 240 volts and the total does not have to be less than 50 amps.
Another downside to your plan is:
Have you ever been in the bathroom during rain? Think what it will sound like with the rain beating down on the Fantastic Fan's plastic cover during the night! Fred Astaire on the roof anyone?
Keith
Yes, I full timed in my aluminum Revcon ( I called it my tin can ) for almost ten years. The sound of the rain beating on the roof/vents was very soothing, but hey different strokes for different folks.
AH the sound of rain beating down on our tent......was VERY soothing....till you had to get up that is.
Roland