Found out over the weekend that it was not a leaking air cylinder on my entry step causing that huge air leak when you would close the door with the engine running -- a critter had chewed one of plastic lines in half!
So -- fixed that but then decided it was a good time to tackle the job of totally removing the step, drilling out the rivets attaching the fiberglass to the steel, and see how bad the corrosion was when separating the parts. (It was quite ugly from the outside so I expected a lot of corrosion inside)
It was amazing! -- I probably poured out a full 20 oz. cup of flakes, and the steel is completely gone along a couple of edges. I'll look for other notes on the experience of re-building it structurally, but I know a couple of things for certain. When I do this there will be a better sealing material used than a bead of silicone, and I'll make sure there is plenty of drainage along the bottom edge so moisture can't be trapped inside.
The corrosion had caused the steel to laminate and the fiberglass distorted so it would not have swung up into the stored position without rubbing and damaging the adjacent bay door anyway. So it's not like I had a choice in the matter.
All the best,
Michael
Mike
Here is a good write up on the process
Rotten Entry Step (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=13904.msg79181#msg79181)
Thanks, Barry!
Wrong part of the step. Mike is describing the hinged flip up step. Maybe future write-up can be titled something like "Hinged Entry step repair" as this has nothing to do with replacing the main fuel hose and the step repair gets difficult to find. At some point this year I will be working on the same issue.
Split these couple of posts out to a new topic.
Michelle
When I took the fiberglass cover off it's frame, I had about a cup of water inside of it. The frame was good but very rusty . I wire brushed the frame and then sprayed it with 3 coats of marine galvanised paint. I then used 3M 5200 marine adhesive sealent to reattach the cover. I remover the old Foretravel safety tread, cleaned and painted the step and then installed a new safety tread. I didn't drill any drainage holes . I was concerned about road spray getting inside the cover. Something I now do is flip the step closed when in storage . Water will lay on top of the step when down and start to rust the joint between the fiberglass cover and the step. Gam
While I need to remove my hinged step and open it up, I drilled two holes to drain it. one is at the top and one at the bottom of the face that is out when in the up position. This helps with draining when the stop is out and also when in the travel mode.
Michelle,
Thank you.
Rick
I too had a bucket of rust on mine. I took it off, primed it and painted with Rustoleum black paint. I have not replaced yet but feel getting a metal fabricating shop to make one out of either plate aluminum or galvanized would be the ticket. Of course the Galvanizing would need to be done after fabrication. That is why I was thinking about aluminum. So far, just been using the spray rustoleum to touch up now and then. Agree that the holes in the fiberglass hidden on back down side for drainage is good idea. So far the wire brush/paint is holding up (about 6mos). I put the fiberglass back on the step with stainless screws (had pop rivets). This makes it easier to remove.
I had the same problem over a yr ago and wrote here about it.
I ground and wire brushed all the rust off then coated it in Osphos!! to seal any rust. I then painted it with Rustoleum black and when putting the cover back I too drilled 2-1/8th holes in what is the bottom side but also drilled some holes in the frame itself so that when in the up position water (if it ever got in) could run from anywhere in the framing out thru these holes and then out the fibreglass ones. I did not silicone it back but put a single screww in each side to hold cover on. This can now be removed to check condition. Since I did this job I have had it off twice and no more rust as water drains out easy. This works fine and too me is the easy answer.
John
I took mine off and had the metal sand blasted, than reattached the fiberglass and sprayed the metal and lip of fiberglass with a can of black bedliner spray that you can get at any auto supply. Has been on for 3 years and still looks new and no need for the safety tread.
Duh, on me.
And thanks Jim, I like the idea of bed liner covering the step. I actually have some in my garage left over from another project. This sounds like a GREAT idea. I think it should beat the Rustoleum alone on protection against recurring rust, look better, wear better, and be less slippery when wet. Now I have a little project that needs attention.
I didn't like the looks of the cap screws holding the step hinge on so I replaced them with stainless button head cap screws. Getting the old ones out was a pain. I soaked the heads with LPS for a day and then was able to get them to turn a little. Once they were just above the hinge, I soaked them again for a few hours. Was able to remove them but kept a lot of downward pressure so as not to round the corners and make removal very difficult.
Thanks Jim and John,
Took off my step over the weekend. It was collecting water (not visable) and starting to rust again inside where the water was collecting despite my previous wire brushing and painting with rustoleum. I wire brushed it again, primed it and then coated with bed liner. I then noted that water was sitting on the step and drilled a couple of holes in the metal step and the fiberglass cover in a spot that was not obvious (yet dependent to allow drainage). I think this should do it for a while now. Perhaps this should be under the title of "what I did to my motorhome". Reattached the fiberglass with the stainless screws. Kudos to both.