As promised, here's the new thread on the renovations needed on our coach.
The refrigerator is original, so I'm not surprised that it worked when we first saw the coach but has since died. We'll replace it with a residential unit. So far I haven't found any that will fit exactly in the opening, so a bit of remodel work will be necessary. Jo Ann would rather use her Rainbow vacuum cleaner than the built-in one, so it looks like I'll have the entire floor-to-ceiling space available. The biggest concern I have is the depth of the refrigerator, or more accurately, how much space opening the doors will require. We may need to go with a side-by-side unit.
It seems that most of the refrigerators I've seen are quite a bit narrower than the current Dometic, so that may help by giving us some additional cabinet space on the side of the refrigerator. I'm thinking that making that space a broom closet might be the easiest. Jo Ann may have other ideas. We have a man who is quite the cabinet maker at church, so I'll probably have him do the woodwork.
The converters and inverter are all original, and at least one of the converters is buzzing. Would it make more sense to replace all three with one modern unit that can handle the refrigerator as well as the rest of the coach, or get a dedicated inverter for the refrigerator? The batteries are all fairly new lead acid type, so I'm not sure that replacing them with something different would be very cost-effective. Thoughts on that?
We've also become quite used to soft water, so a water softener system will be added at some point. Any suggestions for that? I'm thinking that, at least for now, we'll just use an external water filter when we fill the fresh water tank. There is some sort of filtered water faucet in the kitchen, but I haven't explored that yet.
Eventually we will want to add some solar panels, but that will be for another year. Replacing tires and refrigerator will make a sufficient dent in the reserves for now.
Perhaps "the Haygarth mod" - a pantry? John Haygarth's fridge and pantry upgrade (What did you do to your coach today) (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=15228.msg91842#msg91842)
That's kind of what I had in mind if the refrigerator allows that much width. If not, a broom closet would work. I suspect that I'm going to have to get the old refrigerator out first, and then figure out what we want for a new one. So far I haven't found one that is exactly the same size as the old one. I think that is deliberate on the part of the refrigerator people. <grin>
Post the make/model/dimensions and the forum will help spend your money (I mean make suggestions) :D
If you plan on boon-docking and depending on solar, a second inverter dedicated to the refrigerator makes sense (1000W) - each inverter has a load, so if you have a dedicated one for the refrigerator and switch off the larger one when not making coffee, watching tv, using your computer, microwave, etc.
I spend a lot of time running the engine down the road, camped with power, parked stored with power, at Nascar running the generator, or plugged in at a campground. In all those cases there is power available to power the inverter without discharging batteries. So when I put in the refrigerator, I will use the stock Pro-sine 2500, and not add a second inverter.
Yes, you should upgrade to a new combination charger inverter in my opinion, I am sure many on the forum are more qualified to advise what upgrade makes might make the most sense.
The residential that seemed to fit my opening was a french door, counter depth. A little taller than current, but correct width.
I do love the pantry mod that John Haygarth accomplished
The opening, according to the manual for the Dometic RM7030 currently in the coach, is 57 3/16 inches tall, 32 7/8 inches wide, and 23 5/8 inches deep. I'm also going to need to measure the door opening to make sure that I can get the old unit out and the new one in.
Check this one that FOT installed for Atom6 as an opton that would work for that width (no room for an extra pantry for Jo Ann, though....)
Residential fridge (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=13454.msg110855#msg110855)
(https://www.foreforums.com/imagecache.php?image=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.samsung.com%2Fca%2Fsystem%2Fconsumer%2Fproduct%2F2010%2F04%2F20%2Frf197acrsxac%2FRF197ACRS_dimension_b_1_1.jpg&hash=3625a5f0e79036f529404ca79a29079e" rel="cached" data-hash="3625a5f0e79036f529404ca79a29079e" data-warn="External image, click here to view original" data-url="http://www.samsung.com/ca/system/consumer/product/2010/04/20/rf197acrsxac/RF197ACRS_dimension_b_1_1.jpg)
Some options from Fisher and Paykel would fit as well
Counter Depth Total Capacity: 15 - 17.9 (cu. ft.) Refrigerators (http://www.ajmadison.com/b.php/Counter+Depth%3BTotal+Capacity%3A+15+-+17.9+%28cu.+ft.%29%3BRefrigerators/Nf~_width|BTWN+30+36|_height|BTWN+50+70%3BN~26+4294966346+788%3Bpropname_height~Height%3Bpropname_width~Width)
Found this one: Shop Frigidaire 9.9 cu ft Top-Freezer Refrigerator (Silver Mist) at Lowes.com (http://www.lowes.com/pd_396957-2251-FFPT10F3MM_4294789497__?productId=3653462&Ns=p_product_avg_rating|1) but it would still require some surgery. We definitely want a refrigerator with a freezer, since I like my ice cream.
David,
A lot of refrigerators are made in 32 7/8 width, and a counter depth unit will be about the same depth. Most of them go just shy of 70 inches, so that 15" tall cabinet typically under the refrigerator is sacrificed to make room for a taller unit.
I plan to put in a Haier unit I bought from HHGreg for $1199 at the end of April. Parliament in Clearwater is scheduled to do the install, rather wait for a fall trip to Mecadoches. Will take pictures during process. Samsung makes a similar sized refrigerator, but I thought I would take a chance on the lower priced Haier.
Good luck!
Tim, do some research on Haier, there service reviews are not that good.
David, Have you verified that your reefer is indeed dead ?
Gary B
Yes, very spotty reliability. Going to roll dice, since opening will fit Samsung if cheap Haier doesn't work out
All you need to do is take the wooden hand rail off. Only takes a minute or so. With two guys and something to protect the floor, it's out and over with. It does not have a flat bottom so you do have to be careful.
You will have to rebuild the enclosure as the floor is not flat. The good side is you will gain some additional space after it is done. The wood around the outside access door will probably be rotten on the bottom so this is a good time to replace it. The stock wiring is also a mess so this is a good time to clean it up. I used Hardie Backerboard to eliminate the fire danger to the rest of our coach. The stock enclosure is a super fire trap so the Hardie installation is a must if installing a RV fridge. Probably what caused the big RV storage fire in yesterday's post. The two wooden rails locate the new fridge in the middle. The Hardie BB is very easy to score with a box knife and then bend and break off the size you need. A blowtorch can't get through this stuff. The outside roof vent is still exposed but with the amount of ammonia is limited so it would never touch it. Figure a two day job to get everything ready for the new fridge.
We have only plugged in once as we are usually in National Parks or other primitive campsites so I installed a new Norcold unit. If we had several panels on the roof, I would have installed a household unit. Samsung makes an outstanding product.
At twenty years, your old fridge has reached the end of it's life. The last owner of our coach had it fail with them inside. No fire but they had to run outside to escape the ammonia smell.
Pierce
Gary, yes, we're pretty sure the old refrigerator is dead. Even if it isn't quite dead yet, at 20 years old it wouldn't have much life left. I'd much rather replace it now than when we're on the road somewhere. I can work at my own pace and look for the best deal on the replacement.
Pierce, Just for my info . How do you remove the handrail on a GV. I have searched everywhere and I cannot find any screws, plugs etc that would allow the handrail to be taken off.
Thanks
Gary B
Gary,
I mixed the grab rail on the right side entering with the hand rail on the left side entering the coach. The hand rail on the left side does not have to be removed to R&R the fridge as it is even with the door opening but the grab rail does as it sticks out about 2 inches too far to allow the fridge to go by. It has two screws under wooden screw caps. Sorry for the confusion.
Pierce
Gary the one on the left side you have to pull the panel off on the back side of the short wall. There are screws that go into the handrail. I had that whole wall off when I did the wood floor.
Justa Note,
This evening while in the coach, I again realized how glad I changed out the refrig to the Samsung 24 cu ft, a very large unit for my little 36' but would do it again. Perfect temp control on each side, freezer at 6f and refrig at 36f, love two digital thermostats, with the twin coolers, everything lasts longer from OJ to Ice Cream when kept at good temps.
Sometimes I have to pinch myself to make sure it is not just a dream.
After other RV experiences, this U320 is right on perfect.
Yeah !
Dave M
Good idea to replace the fridge. We are thinking of doing the same. Ours works OK but looking at the fire statistics of fridge fires give one pause. Just a quick search for "RV Fires" on Youtube gives some scary vids.
Keith