First I want so say, thanks to all those who've helped me out in the past with other small issues I've had with my Foretravel.
The issue today is that my generator will stop working and show a fault (High Temperature) on the front of the generator panel. This only happens when we are driving down the road. It occurs only when driving, engine running. It will run fine while parked. The radiator and hoses are not hot to the touch. I believe it is some sort of sensor malfunctioning.
Has anyone had a similar experience? Can you please point me in the right direction?
We are heading to Moab tomorrow for the last 4 days of the Easter Safire and we will not need the generator this trip, but summer is coming, so.....
Are you sure you have enough coolant in the genset? If marginally low, it could "slosh" while driving and cause that behavior (BTDT).
When cool, check the overflow and also the tank itself. Carefully inspect the tubing that goes between the tank and the overflow, especially at the fitting/nipple on the neck near the radiator cap. We found our overflow tubing needed to be replaced and the fitting near the rad cap to have a cracked weld/braze. The overflow level looked fine, but it turns out the tank itself was low (because there wasn't proper flow in that hose).
The fitting on ours had clearly been repaired at least once before; FOT re-soldered it using a small butane torch (basically the kind you use for creme brulee - now that's a multitasking tool I can get behind ;) )
With a 2004, the coolant is likely the same as is in the big engine, Rotella ELC.
Michelle
Ck your in line filter. When this thing starts to get stopped up it will at times cut the fuel off and cause a light on the front to come on. DAN
My guess is that the temp sensor on the generator may be overly sensitive and reacting to the hot fuel coming from the tank when the coach is underway. Remember, the fuel is used as a coolant for the drive engine. It can get up over 120 degrees in the tank when underway. That might be enough to push the temp sensor to show an "over heat" situation.
Just a thought.
Don't ask me how I know this, but IF the Autostart circuit is "On", it can shut the generator off because because your driving has raised the voltages to the cut-off point.
No longer an Owner and still in Mourning. This was a relatively recent embarrassment for me in our last Coach.
Dan Spoor Ex-Foretravel 11082.
Dan, how do you know this? :P
We had similar problems with our generator running hot also. The overflow tank showed plenty of coolant but when checking the coolant level in the radiator it showed low. The bottom hose connection on the radiator had a split in the weld, leaked the coolant out and prevented the overflow tank from working properly. Had it rewelded and now it works the way it should.
It seems if the radiator and hoses are not hot then the coolant is not circulating. Bad thermostat or water pump. But that would be the same condition while parked also. Strange that the radiator is cool when the engine has been running.
Mark
Has anyone worked on the gen. I had a problem with my 99 U270 and the previous owner had replaced the radiator but failed to get it in the proper location to the fan so the air would not circulate
around the fan correctly. Foretravel saw the problem and reworked the brackets and the insulation and no more problem. It would just cut off after about 30 minutes of running perfectly. DAN
It is cool because it shuts down before it gets hot. We were leaving Las Vegas two weeks ago when I turned on the gen as we were on the road within 10 minutes it shut off and showed a fault. I stopped and reset to main switch and tried it again, after another 10 or so minutes it shut off again. We drove home with it off. When I got home I let it sit in the driveway and it ran for about an hour. Once we started driving to the storage lot it shut off in less than 10 minutes. I ran it at the storage one day last week for over an hour and no issue. Yesterday I drove it home from storage and again it shut off. Once home It sat in the driveway and ran for over an hour, no problem. So that's the story.
I've been very busy today doing things other than checking my generator, I see lots of good suggestions and I'll be trying them as soon as I get the chance. So thanks for all the ideas, I'll let you know what I find as soon as I get the chance.
Sounds like a loose wire that could be shorting to ground, good time to snoop it over closely. The ten minute run period, is that real accdurite time or a guess ?.
I would be checking everything, water level in radiator, level in recovery jug, water pump & belt, electric fan blowing / circuit breaker not tripped, lots of things to snoop around.
I guess your radiator in under the driver seat area, with a cap to check and fill up 100%.
Hoses not hot, low or out of antifreeze level. Just guessing like the above ;D
Maybe
I had a similar problem once on my U295.
Breaker tripped > no power to fan > gen overheated > gen stop.
Replaced breaker. I see my U320 gen has the controls moved off the gen to the panel on the driver's side.
best, paul
Hi David,
I had a similar situation last summer. The genset would run sitting in the yard for a seemingly endless amount of time. Get on the road and it would very soon shut down. I assume the additional heat off the road caused the fault.
I found the fan belt loose. Tightened belt and I have had no more issues.
Hope this helps.
Jerry
I had a similar problem with the generator on my '98 320. The unit would run about 5 minutes, then stop with indication of high temperature. The generator ran without stopping after I pulled the wire from the temperature sensor, so to verify that it was a faulty sensor, I removed the sensor and immersed it in water while connected to an ohm meter. I heated the water on wife's stove while watching the temperature of the water and the ohm meter. The switch in the sensor closed at about 170 degrees F. I called Power Tech (352-365-2777), talked with Jeff and learned that the sensor switch should close between 230 degrees and 240 degrees F. When the switch closes it grounds the run circuit, stops the engine, and causes the warning light to light. I tried to find a replacement sensor locally, but because of its unusual function I had to order it from Power Tech. The generator runs fine after replacement of the sensor.
I can only suggest you try a few scenarios to help narrow your search:
1. Run gen with coach stopped but with dash ignition left on and see if it stops after 10 minutes or so. (Maybe twice: boost switch ON and OFF)
2. Same as above with main engine left idling.
3. If you have an autostart, try disabling completely (cut power) and go for a drive with generator running to see if it shuts down.
The only thing I can imagine that is different between "on the road" and stopped might be dash voltage. The alternator might be putting out a higher voltage then if plugged in (or gen running). Note that at idle the alternator maynot be putting out as high a voltage as when going down the road. I have no idea how this might cause a shut down other than pushing an (bad) sensor that running right on the edge and the extra voltage pushing over it's limit.
Good luck.
I'd like to say thanks to everyone who gave me advice. So much good information. I feel sort of dumb though, as it seems the problem was it was low on coolant. It took almost a gallon in the main tank. After that it runs like a champ. I'm not sure that the overflow tank is exchanging fluid though. I'll be looking into that this week.
Thanks again to a all who helped.
David, Welcome to the club. I of course hold the chief dumbass position so you will have ti take a lower title. These FT's have a way of humbling all of us. :facepalm:
Gary B
had similar problem and needed new mother board NLH
Here is an easy temperature gauge installation for the 10Kw generator (and others) in a U300. I ordered it off ebay at the page here: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170452535226 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170452535226) and then with the tools in one of the photos, installed it.
The gauge is really nice stainless steel with dead on accuracy as compared with our indoor digital thermometer. The pipe threads are the same size as the threads in the thermostat housing on the generator so you only have to release pressure if the generator is warm, turn a 1/2" extension (1 foot long) backwards, use the large adjustable wrench and unscrew the plug. If the gauge is ready to go with your favorite sealant on the threads, it will thread in with only a tablespoon or so loss of coolant. I used a 17mm/ 11/16" open end to tighten it until in the proper position.
A sensor with a wire to a instrument panel gauge would be even better but this is a big improvement from OEM.
This will indicate the engine temperature but is not a substitute for checking the coolant level. ;D
Will post a fuel pressure gauge installation on the generator next week.
Pierce
David,
My Kubota 10K had the same symptom of a thermal shutdown due to low coolant level. I finally found the leak from a crack in the small rubber hose at the top of the radiator. It was hard to see because it was a small drip that would show up at the bottom of the radiator while it was running and the crack was out of sight on the opposite side. When I took the hose off (about 3" long) I finally found it. Replaced it and no more leaks.
Pierce,
Thanks for the post with pics/instructions on the temp gauge on ebay. This one is on my bucket list and in my bookmarks. An inexpensive and very useful add-on for monitoring genny heat level. Karma b^.^d
Jerry
Thanks, I'll look forward to your write up.