Have noticed over the last few months of a nagging noise coming from the area under rear wheel drivers side and had just about everything in and around the closets there apart at one time or another but although it was less noisey on our journey back from Phx a few weeks ago it was still there sonewhat. I have been going thru all possibilities in my mind so today I took the outside panel off around that tyre and after checking a few things finally found I feel what the cause is/was. One of the shocks that the previous owner changed (put Koni's on ) the top bolt was loose and I could turn the top a bit and it produced the noise. Now that it is tight (was i/4" loose) no noise. Due to the location of shock I could not get at it before with wrench but panel off and it is simple. Now I have had all 4 (2 on each side) panels off. Love how easy it makes the job and I was able to pressure wash that wheel well area nice and clean.
John H
John,
Were it me, I would remove the bolt that has been loose for awhile and VERIFY that it has not wallowed outl either the shock bushing or the coach attachment. If it has, look at oversizing the bolt/machining the parts.
I know when I worked on another Foretravel that has this same issue we went from 3/4" to 20 mm to get a tight fit. Just because you torqued it properly does not mean that it will not move around if it has already worn parts.
Ever since I have had my U280 I have been annoyed by a harmonic rattle on throttle up that goes away at cruise. I have looked at everything I could to no avail. I even added an additional hanger to the exhaust pipe.
Today as I was checking on the coach in storage I heard a strange sound like a motor losing a bearing. It was parked and locked. As I walked around I found the noise to be at the rear battery door on the right. I pushed against the door and it quit. It appears that the door is just loose enough that the WIND was causing it to vibrate. I will have to do some adjusting , checking of gaskets now. I hope that this was my noise. You never know what you will find next.
Gary B
I hear ya Gary...A couple years back the genset sounded like it was going to self destruct when starting and shutting down. I looked everywhere for loose bolts, clamps...you name it. Then the good folks at the ForeForums (I can't rememberwho) suggested I check the small bolts that hold the sliding genset tray in place. Voila...rattle fixed. It seems the folks at Cummins Bridgeway did not tighten them all the way after they replaced the fuel hoses and fuel pump.
Brett, should have added I did just that and except for a bit of shiny metal it looked fine so put it back THEN tightened it. I just thought I would mention the rattle part without thinking anyone would be interested in it further. Should have known better with our bunch of real experts on board. Thanks for bringing it up.
John H
John, while you have the panel off, it would be a good time to check the seam right at the floor level. If there is a small separation water can migrate inside to the interior floor of the bedroom and over time can rot the carpet. That is exactly what happened to my rig. The separation was wide enough that I installed a 1"x1" angle iron secured with self tapping screws and lots of undercoating. And I got to get new carpet the color that I wanted for the repair.
Ron, that is another reason I have no problem taking those panels off so I can look at everything under them. I was the whole area down before puttin a light under/next too while checking. I am very lucky (reading many other postings on different areas) that I have not found anything out of place/ needs fixing other than what I have posted on over the time on Forum.
Taking these panels off is so simple AND as I say gives you an "open canvas" to inspect all that is hard to see with it on. There have been some replies to my former comments on taking these off as "not needed, waste of time etc". To me seeing what is covered is peace of mind. I have the 30 mins it takes to remove one, and it goes back as if it was never off!!
Regarding those seams, I spray undercoating on them and anywhere else I feel could benefit from it as a preventitive to future problems.
Thanks for the mention but that is already done.
John H
John,
I'm with you regarding removing the fender panels. But one thing I really dislike is removing the old silicone from the trim and wall. I was thinking of replacing the silicone with something more user friendly. Maybe using a some one sided foam tape on the underside of the trim piece(s)? Probably should use something wide enough that it extends down below the screws so it would prevent water from getting into the sidewall steel tubing?
I have not had a problem with water penetration once I have replaced the trim and I have had the long trim pieces off now twice both sides in 2 yrs. Screws are still clean. This is one area I DO use silicone as I know I most probably will have them off again in a couple years so nothing is going to have a hold on rust/leaking etc. I put a tiny bead (almost unrecognizable amount along top of strip and none on bottom as I believe you should leave an escape route for any water that may get trhu' the top seam). One thing I have learnt is that if you have water getting into the bay's next to wheel openings, sure as heck it is coming past where the panel butts up to frame, AND it is tough to seal without the panel off. Case in point in photo. Top left (and right) joins with covered paper trim.I am able to caulk this trim and make my bay dry. All 4 wheel areas had the same problem but now mine are fixed.
John H
Thanks John,
I put a bead of silicone on the top of the rail (none on bottom) but also put it under the screw heads as well as I see that as possible pathway into the frame tubing.
I never had a problem with leaking into the bays...yet.
Which panels are you referring to, John?
best, paul
Paul, all the fibreglass panels around coach (as in photo)
John H