Foretravel Owners' Forum

Anyone know of a mobile Zip Dee awning repair person/company in Houston?  Opened the control box in the basement to check/replace batteries for the awning and found that the insulation was melted burned off of the wires connected to the batteries. Have sent an email  to Zip Dee in Ill.

Rudy Leggett (in Baytown, near Houston) is friends with a guy who owns an RV repair shop that was just across the street from the RV Park we stayed in.  Rudy recommended the park to us as a base while he did our Aquahot service.  We met the fellow (he also did Dave Metzger's electric fridge install) and he is one of those guys who can fix anything that comes down the pike.  You may want to make a detour to Baytown and check out his facility. 

CUTTING EDGE RV SERVICE, 12535 I-10 East, Baytown, TX, 77523  281-383-1438 ... Lee Morris is the guy's name.  We stayed at the Houston East RV Park.  Nice, clean, reasonable. 

I second the cutting edge service!  Very nice folks, they have a couple of 50 amp plugs so you can spend the night.  Plus Rudy could take a look at your Aquahot if need be! 

I will recommend him too.  He fixed my Aquahot with help from Rudy and saved me a replacement charge of way way more. 

Oh and he worked under my coach till 930 pm.

John, he fixed our Aquahot as well, but he did not START until 9:30pm! 

Thanks Folks-
Rudy called, as he was coming up to Spring to checkout the AquaHot and suggested I contact Lee about the awning.  I will make arrangements to get there when we have finished our stuff here in Livingston. 

Well - Zip Dee is building another complete controller box to exchange for ours.  They also wanted the right arm shipped to them so they could rewire it. (right arm as you look at the coach from the side).  Here is the challenge.  The Zip Dee is hooked into the aux. air compressor that also controls the Auto level system and the slide ballasts?  So... how do I cap the Zip Dee air line so I have air pressure to the bladders and auto leveling so I can live in the coach until the control box and the arm are returned in 7 to 10 days.

Would much appreciate your input.

Thanks,
Scott

Scott,

In my case I disconnected the three air lines from the front arm (double male connectors, just inside the coach, behind the door step electrical panel) and plug them with nails, etc. pushed inside the ends or kink them over and secure with cable ties. Be sure to label all lines with masking tape for proper reconnection. Hopefully you will get the new, improved control box that allows more air pressure to the arms. Talk with Jimmy in the service dept. at Zip Dee - he is very helpful.

Jim

2002 U320 42'

build 5957

Thanks Jim-

Agree with Cutting Edge RV Service, Lee Morris, for sure a "Can Do" shop right on I-10 Baytown, east of Houston slightly. 
The more I look at and think about that large refrig box in my 36', I laugh, looking at it, it looks impossible, but seemed simple for the Lee Morris gang, I'm still amazed. Correct price I feel also.

When we replaced the awning arm with the wiring, we bought it from ZipDee, had it shipped to Foretravel for install, and then returned the damaged arm to ZipDee for our credit. We purchased a rebuilt arm, not a new one ... at about half the cost.  They then rebuilt our damaged arm for someone else!

Thanks Dave M for the vote of confidence for Cutting Edge.  It's always a challenge trusting your "girl" to some one you don't know to perform work.  We are hopeful that the "new" control box and rewired arm will return to Cutting Edge mid to late week next week.  In the mean time we would like to take the coach and Live in her until the parts arrive.

We are going over there later this AM and check things out. 

Update - Long story gets longer - Had the rebuilt control box and front arm installed.  Unfortunately after many hours of adjustment we called it quits.  While in Nac recently for the top re-coat we also had the awning "looked at".  The tech. said, ont in these exact words,  that these awnings are crap and not to invest another penny in it.  They do however have a nice Girrard that they could let me have for about $7500 and it would only take about 3 hours to install - not to mention some body and paint to cover the holes from the ZipDee.  Said no thanx.  Ran into a couple of great guys at Nac and active contributors to this forum and they suggested that I contact Jimmy at ZipDee in Elk Grove, IL.  Well I did just that.  Not only was he familiar with this problem but stated that the awning must have 110psi min to work.  He told me what year coach I had and told me what was happening with the awning before I could tell him.  (Front arm extends and the back one doesn't always -  said that FT installed a compressor that does not supply enough pressure to activate the arms.  - ??? ??? ???  He asked for my name and # and would contact another FT owner that has installed a compressor that successfully activated his awning.  This is becomming a very interesting experience.  Thoughts?

Interesting.  Check your compressor as I think you can adjust the PSI on it and as I recall, we had ours set to 110 or 115 psi.  It might just be the compressor not set correctly. 

I do know that Zip Dee wanted FT to have a dedicated compressor just for the awnings and FT said no, so they share the 12v compressor with the Slide bladders. As long as you have 110 psi, it should not matter what else is on that compressor. 

For sure look at the compressor.

When were at Zip Dee last fall I was eyeing the power awnings. Jimmie told me to stick with te manual awning, simple, less "issues".

Roland

Hey Guys - I know that the engine compressor can be increased but do not know how to increase the air pressure on the aux. compressor.  The Aux. compressor serves the bladders, awning and HWH auto leveling system.  Have done some searching on this site but can not find what I'm looking for.  Checked Barry's site too and don't see it there.  Michelle - can you find a link? :D

Roland - I looked at having a manual put on the ol' girl instead of repairing the ZipDee.  At that time it would have cost about $3500 for the awning and then about 3 to 4 hours to install.  In hindsight maybe I should have done that.........  I've got about 2K invested in this one so far.  ARGH.

Realistically - We really do not use the awning that often but I just like our stuff to work.

Can you verify the psi that the compressor pumps to until it cuts off?  I thought there was a nut on the bottom of the tube that allowed you to increase the pressure.  Talk with James Triana at FOT.  He can tell you without a doubt if it can be increased. 

Maybe in the T/A manual? 

Michelle - You are absolutely amazing.  Thank you. 

If I am reading the documents that Michelle found correctly, they show that there is no air regulator adjustment on this model.  It appears to produce a min and max pressure of 100 psi.  Based on the Gauge mounted on the regulator next to the control box I am seeing about 90 psi.  ( (Who knows if that is correct.) a rhetorical question/statement.)

I do find it interesting that Jimmy@ ZipDee said that the awning requires 110 psi to operate while their documentation specifies 90 psi to operate.  It also has a light on the control box that will light if there is not enough air pressure to operate.  (The light has not been on.)  HMMMMMMMM  The plot thickens. 

So far the Zip Dee on our 02 is working perfectly. I assume we have the original 12v compressor but wouldn't swear to that. There are a lot of moving parts relays etc. so it will break sometime.

We never used our manual awning because it was easier to find a shade tree than put it out.  This one however is a different story.

In Oklahoma we can go from no wind to 80 mph in a short time. With the electric we can just put the awning up when leaving the coach or going to bed. We love it.

I think it is Corbett and Connie Poole. I saw their zip dee and it was connected to a second compressor in the first bay.  He said no problems since he put that in. I would contact them and talk to him.  He showed me the setup and it was pretty sweet.

The unit on our '02 ZipDee Autoawn uses 90psi. I regularly need to use the little button that turns the entire control OFF and ON again, to reset everything... then it is fine for a while. The remote does not like to "talk" to the control through the closed bay door.  We have to open it a bit to get good communication. 

Hi Carol - Hope things are going well for you guys.

Ours communicates kinda the same as yours.  Sometimes OK through the bay door - other times - no.

I would have another conversation with Jimmy at Zip Dee and mention that the doc says 90 psi.  Foretravel would not have installed those awnings with a compressor that did not produce the correct PSI. 

Could it be that the cylinders need some lubrication in the air line?  I don't know how the Zip Dee system works but I do know that dried oil on the seals of an air cylinder can greatly affect operation making it seem like there's not enough pressure.  Maybe another question for Jimmy.

Hey John - The right arm was rebuilt by ZipDee and the left one was lubricated by FT in Nac.  It appears that I have low air pressure that does not push the cylinders and extend - Per Jimmy at ZipDee. 

I will call Jimmy again tomorrow AM and chat again.

TT Jimmy at ZipDee again.  He called to advise he is trying to contact the owners that have a second compressor - think the Pooles - but they have not returned his calls.  I asked about the air pressure discrepancy between the docs., 90psi and his statement, 110psi.  He advised that he sets the control boxes at 110 psi. 

Still looking for a small compressor that can be installed in the bay. Going down to 4 wheel parts in Houston.  They have a few 12 volt units that produce up to 135 psi.

Latest developments - Found posts from the PO dating back to 2004 where he talked about the problems with the ZipDee awning.  Found a small Senco single tank compressor - 135psi and Jimmy @ ZipDee said it should do the job.  We are going to meet him somewhere near the FMCA rally in Gillette where he is going to replace the rear awning arm at a great price.  Checked with FMCA and their powered spots are all gone.  Soooo we can either dry camp in an area that allows generators to run at any time or stay in a lot/field where generators are limited use.  I think we may try to stay at a CG close and meet Jimmy in a parking lot close to the rally so he can do his magic.

Latest Developments - Success - In Gillette.  Jimmy, Jim - the owner of Zip Dee, his wife and son came to our CG this afternoon.  Replaced the rear awning arm, the spring, showed me how to drain the water out of the arms, (should be done on occasion) and  shared with us how this thing works. It now works great. Cost - $30.00 service call. :D   

Congrats!  Glad you finally are able to use the awning! 

Hi Scott,

Please remind me of the arm draining procedure. I presume you have same the Auto-Awn system I do.

Jim

2002 U320

Hi Jim - Extend awning until arms arms are slightly past horizontal position.  Use motor manual awning extension switch in the control box to do this.  There is a black cap with 4 screws on the end of the arm where an extension comes out.  This is the arm seal.  Turn the 4 screws counterclockwise (loosen) for 2 revolutions (DO NOT REMOVE SCREWS AS THEY ARE A BUGGER TO GET BACK IN).  Tap black cap away from arm on the screws - maybe 1/8th of an inch.  If there is water in the arm it will flow out between the arm and black cap.  Re tighten screws, retract awning using the same switch and operate as usual.  Jimmy says that this should be done on occasion.  I asked how often.  He said it largely depends on the amount of rain that has fallen but suggests once every three to four months.  Keep in mind that there is a timer built into the control box to eliminate overuse.  If the awning will not retract after this procedure, reset the unit by turning it off then on.  The bottom switch in the control box is the  on/off switch.  Jim, the owner of Zip Dee. said they built that timing control due to many people running the awing out and in numerous times that the motor in the awning burnt out.  Idiot proof.  Jim added that one of the greatest causes of arm failure is the build up of water in an arm that is not drained.  The black cap is a seal but water tend to find a way in.  He also suggests, normal maintenance, to use 3 in one oil, to lube the arm.  You will find a hex bolt head on the main arm.  Remove the bolt and put oil in hole until it starts to flow out.  Replace hex head bolt.  I think I have listed accurately the procedure.  If in doubt call Jimmy in Elk Grove, IL for details.  He is a great guy and will answer any questions you may have.

That's how they instructed me on how to get the water out.  This is a great awning but you do have to have the air pressure to make it work.  I put mine out right after I turn the engine off as the pressure is at its highest point at that time.  DAN

Scott,

Wow, thank you for the detailed answer for awning arm water removal. Good luck with your coach - it is a rather long learning curve. Great fun though!

Jim

Dan and Scott,

Last year I had my Auto-Awn control box re-built by Jimmie from Zip Dee (at an FMCA) in order to gain greater air pressure for the arms. He also as replaced the front arm. Actually I do not use the big awning very much (too chicken from previous experiences), but sure had more difficulty until upgrading my 2002 vintage control box.

Jim

2002 U320

Per Jimmy's request/requirement, being that the control box needs 110 psi to operate, I invested in a small air compressor that I now use to air my tires and operate the awning.  The air compressor will produce max. 135 psi with a small air tank - not pancake style.  Jimmy was glad to see it when I opened the bay for him to make his magic.

Scott - Jimmy had suggested the same to me just last week.  I have a small pancake compressor that I could take if I knew where to connect.  How do you make your connection. 
I really like my AutoAwn.  Although I have experienced some of the problems others have experienced over the past six years,  I regularly deploy my awning and adjust for best viewing from inside when we eat.  I find that if you use it regularly you may experience fewer problems. 

Ron - I hope we enjoy our awning as much as you do.  I do not know where your aux. comp. or Zip Dee control box is but mine is on the passenger side - center Bay.  First bay being LP gas and third being the Maniblock water valves.  My control box is gray in color and attached on a partial bulkhead that runs parallel with and toward the center of the coach.  The air manifold that controls air in and out of the arms is attached to the control box on the right, then a water separator that received air from the aux. comp. is to the right of the of the air manifold.  Out of the aux. comp. there are three black air lines approx. 1/4" in diameter.  I think one line goes to auto level function, one line goes to slide air bags and one goes to water separator then to the air manifold for the Zip Dee control box.  I cut the line about 3" from the water separator and connected a 5' line with a quick disconnect on the other end.  The end with the quick disconnect I connect to my compressor that lives in the center bay under the Aux Comp.  The end that comes from the aux compressor I doubled over and used a stainless steel clamp to secure the end so air could not get out.  You could also use a screw and thread into end of air line to stop the air but I had a clamp and not a screw.  I think it was recommended somewhere on this site to use the screw method.  I think that covers it. 

Where are you guys???  When we were in Tucson and I was coming home from running errands in the 110 degree heat, I saw that Jeff had the awning extended. I cleverly thought that I would park the Jeep partially under the awning and use the shade.  I forgot, however, that he still had his "floaty-boat" frame on the roof rack of the Jeep, and smacked the awning with the damned boat.  It was slightly skewed by this maneuver (awning ... not boat) and the fabric ruched along the roller a bit. I will say that Mr Wonderful kept his mouth shut pretty well ... and we managed to un-skew things for the most part and the awning did raise with only a modicum of unnatural protest. We have not lowered it since.  I would really really really like a consensus/committee of other ZipDee folks present when we try this baby again. 

Carol:  I have to call Jimmy once and he was so helpful and with the manual in hand I am convinced that I paid for this awning and I am going to use it.  I put it out the other day and the motor worked but the air did not push it up.  Waited 15 minutes and retracted it.  Put it out again right after I turned the main engine off and it worked like it is suppose to and retracted correctly. This awning just requires air at the right level or does not work .  DAN

Dan: I have had to reach out to Jimmy on several occasions and he is just GREAT!  But even Jimmy is gonna have a hard time telling me how to adjust a cockiewampus awning when he can't eyeball it.  That is why I am hoping to be in the presence of at least 2 other awning wranglers when we try and look at this thing.  Until then, I think we are keeping it rolled up!

Carol:  Good Idea. On my 99 I had it out and left for a show (lesson learned) returned to find it full of water and bow in the middle/  Called rv guy and we got it rolled back up and it never come down again until I got to extreme.  DAN

Carol- We are in Livingston, MT. just north of Yellowstone.  Sorry to hear about your mishap.  I think when you open it again assure that you have enough air pressure.  When the arms are out and extended are there any bent parts of the arm?  Are the attaching brackets bent?  When you try to operate the awning do you hear any air coming out any where.  Particularly at the end of the arm where the awning rolls up. 

Thanks Scott.  [I've been on this Forum for about six years now and am still learning how to navigate around. I just found a quick way to look for replies to ones posts. sorry fro the delay in getting back to you.]  Thanks for your reply!  Yes, we do enjoy our ZipDee AutoAwn and use it regularly.

I could visualize your posting fairly well as my setup is very similar. The main difference is that I have a slide out utility tray in my bay which will limit the placing of my pancake pump in the same bay.  My MH went back to storage this past weekend but I'll get to it in a few weeks and look to see how I can set up my compressor similar to yours at that time.  Again thanks for your info! ^.^d