AS I finished up with "Gus" this afternoon, I realized again, these really are wondrous machines.
Oh, we have had frustrations, the depth of which probably reflects poorly on my level of patience or tolerance for dealing with the unknown.
The new water faucet connection leaked on our last trip, caused a mess, so got traveling repairman to fix it, changed to better fittings. And said, he loved these coaches, "see....look at the quality in here, it is hard to believe you have the age and miles you told me but a Foretravel can do this."
Too, the auxiliary compressor quit. Why? Fuse, in-line, blown. Why...that remains a mystery. Maybe because it had a 10 amp fuse, some say should be a 15. So I went to the schematic, no answer that I could find there. Still to figure this out, but not so urgent I think.
Oh yeah, propane did not cool the refrigerator on the 300 miles home. Oops. Gotta a tad warm. But my fault I am pretty sure.....I think it does not like to be out of level while I am driving, so my plan to not run the generator needs to be shelved.
As I went over Gus from top to the bottom Saturday, with a thorough cleaning of the roof, then power wash gently to remove some serious road grime, then suds gently and then Wash Wax All, also with attention to the engine area hygiene and radiator, I reflected on the minor events. Just searching the schematics for fuse info illustrated the complexity of these systems and "things", and to also have easier driving versus most brands. Well, that repairman's statement, I remind myself, is right on.......for a 12 year old with lots of miles, this is truly a marvelous machine.
Thanks Mr. Fore and Foretravel. You done good.
Mike
15 amp fuse according to HWH manual.
Mike,
I would clean all the refer propane orifice, etc. to be sure they are clean and working correctly. To test the circuit board for proper firing sequence, turn the refer on using the propane setting and place your ear against the referand as you turn the refer on listen for the "ticking" sound the igniter makes to fire up the gas flame. If it does not fire up you should get an error code with a sounding alarm on the refer monitor.
Also, as you down the road, the level issue is not a problem as the sloshimng of the fluid in the refer does not allow for bubbles to form in the cooling coils which reduces the cooling efficiency. Others will chime in to help out more.
Mike,
The only failure issue with the lp gas fridge was the build up on the burner, just clean it off / remove the build up back to normal lp operation.
Dave M
Thanks guys. Just had annual maintenance and assume they did propane work, watched a bit but not all that on fridge. As had not level as washing the fridge warmed, propane not cooling and was off shore power. When I returned to level I could hear the burner or whatever in the fridge outside entry port and the fridge began to cool.
Is it likely or certain that it should run on propane while driving? I otherwise had no need for generator on this trip.
The 15 amp fuse sounds good, thanks.
Mike
Run mine on propane while driving...till I get new fridge in two weeks
Tim, you have two door refrigerator? If so, what brand te
What brand and size replaces it?
As to fuse on the auxiliary compressor, this was a fuse in the line I gather between the solenoid and the electrical supply. Just to clarify in case there is another fuse somewhere. I thought that MOT told me that they had added this inline fuse.
Peter may recall he found the compressor running and a long long time at Extreme, very hot, and we pulled this fuse to stop it. Just inline on a red wire. Thanks Barry, I have no HWH manual, but fascinated by all the other schematics that were left in the coach. It really may be rocket science that runs part of this coach versus some other brands I have seen lately
Cheers, mike
We have a Dometic refrigerator. The cooling unit that was installed about one year ago, after the original cooling unit leaked near the heaters. We set our refrigerator to "Auto." When on shore power or generator, it runs on 120VAC. When without shore power or generator, it runs on propane. We level whenever we stop for more than about five minutes. If we can't level, I turn off the refrigerator. When we start moving from the "off level" spot, I turn the refrigerator on. That all seems to work well for us.
I agree with the level whenever you stop - but I was surprised when I checked the owners manual that the unit can actually be a bit out of level and be happy - Not recommended, but worth looking at in your owners manual
I have a Dometic two door refrigerator, model number RM1182 - they do not make a direct replacement, but the dimensions are: 36 1/2" wide 24" deep"
59 1/6" tall
Very rare refrigerator according to Dometic (first person didn't think that was a valid Part Number! Rare because it is absorption Except ice maker has a small compressor.
I bought a hair french door counter depth refrigerator to put in (may wish I bought Samsung before it is over) HB21FC45NS on sale at HHGreg for $1,199 plus tax. Parliament coach in Clearwater puts it in on April 29, hopefully along with the resonator stored in the basement of the coach. LOVE MOT and FOT for this sort of thing, but had decent experience in fall with Parliament and didn't want to wait for fall trip to Meccadoches to get those two things done
LOT's of refrigerator choices if you have the 36 1/2 inch wide Dometic, since you can find a large amount of counter depth refrigerators that are 35 1/2 - 35 7/8" wide and 24 -26" deep. They are all pretty much 68 - 71" tall, but that just means you lose most of the under fridge storage space under the domestic, should minimize any expensive cabinet work.
WIll keep everyone informed
According to RV Cooling Warehouse, the most common problem with propane is inadequate heating. It is usually a dirty gas jet and or chimney or low gas pressure. The best way to test for any of these problems is check the temperature produced by the flame. It should be about 400 degrees F. I don't recall whether that is just above the flame or at the top of the flu but one of both of those areas should be that hot to get full function of the propane cooling system.
There is a sheet metal plate that can be easily removed with one or two sheet metal screws to expose the gas burner. Use a small stainless steel or brass brush to clean the burner orifice. Cover the burner and tap the chimney to loosen any carbon buildup or rust. Use mirror to look up the chimney to make cure it is clean and clear. If full temperature is not reached then have someone with the proper testing equipment check the gas pressure and the regulators. Most or our coaches have two or more regulators. Just because the stove works doesn't mean the gas pressure is adequate for proper operation of the furnaces ro the refrigerator.
You should be fine running down the road. Level is not an issue then. You need to check the burner and if you have a cooling unit issue. As to the compressor it is probably a fuse but the issue is what caused it to run till it popped.
The orifice may have to be removed and soaked in alcohol. They can become partly plugged up and that will greatly reduce the btu output.Gam
ON MY lp refrig, the unit failed on LP, gave indicator lamp claiming an issue, was informed to open up the outside access, remove the small metal shield that protects the flame area, look for a build up of crap on the burner, BINGO, did break the crud off and all went back to happy. No more issues as long as I had it.
End of my repairing refrigs
Dave M
Mike
You can download the HWH manual here http://www.hwh.com/ml21000.pdf (http://www.hwh.com/ml21000.pdf). Believe this is the right one for your coach, we also have the 2001 u320 4010.