If you can take it by the factory in Nacogdoches and have it aligned it will drive like new and no tire wear will occur. I had this done and the coach drives great. Takes only couple hours or less and you can stay in Camp Foretravel for free. Tks DAN
I have read a lot of hocus pocus about the front end alignment done at Mecca. Our U280 handled great, but I wanted to see what this hocus pocus was all about, so when we were there last month I put alignment on our list. I noticed a significant difference in handling, and hoped it wasn't the placebo effect. The truth was affirmed when my DW was driving and stated that the coach she did not have to "move the steering wheel" as much. No placebo, no hocus pocus the alignment guy at Mecca knows what he is doing. Would not go anywhere else to have my U280 aligned.
Roland
Now, can anyone share WHAT is different? Caster? Toe? Ride Height?
Suspect not camber, as that rarely goes out on solid front axle coaches (I know that is not what the OP has, but that is the direction the thread is going)?
I too thought my coach handled fine. I got the front end done about when Dave did since Wayne was full up last trip there. So I can say now after 10K miles it does drive better on all road surfaces.
Interesting indeed. We've got three experienced owners who took fine handling coaches in for an alignment and they now handle....finer? Having a little trouble seeing the logic here, why not go ahead and have an engine overhaul done while you're at it? ;D
I wonder how hi point is set on the power steering gear box, thought that was a non adjustable part? Never a mention from either Wayne or the truck alignment shop on this. Dis-assembly required?
I don't think Wayne will disassemble the steering gear. We had a seal fail on the "business side" of the steering gear. Wayne sent it to Sheppard to be rebuilt.
Sheppard does have a lot of videos about the steering gear. Videos (http://www.rhsheppard.com/videos.htm)
We had an alignment done at FOT a couple of years ago. Prior to alignment, the coach would always go to the right if you let go of the wheel. After alignment, steering did not pull constantly to one side and all was easier. I still think it should be more "point and shoot." We constantly make small adjustments, even in ideal conditions. Based on our limited experience, the steering is great for a big box on big wheels, but I still want something better. I never feel like I can point the front at the right spot a quarter mile down the road like I can in my cars.
Had Wayne at FOT align our's in March. He changed the caster and toe. The caster was way out of spec. What I noticed most afterward was that on long corners at speed or even off-on ramps I had no more "hitching" as I turned. Can just hold the wheel steady now and it turns smoothly.
Dean
Wayne does more than his magic on front end alignments. When we had our '89 in he not only did the alignment but also looked over the entire bottom of the coach for problems "as long as it was over the pit" he said. He pronounced the coach's condition as good as new! He also showed us where other things inside the coach were, such as how to change the flow of antifreeze from the water heater to the dash up front. We nearly froze on the way down that winter!! Great since.
Believe me I was skeptical when I added front end alignment to my list while at Mecca. When I purchased the coach a year earlier I had new tires put on and asked for a front end alignment. The alignment we checked and I was told it was fine. The coach handled very well. But in Mecca they checked and adjusted the toe, caster and ride height. I did not ask what it meant but it looks like they also aligned the rear drive. With all that adjustment you'd think it would have handled poorly, but it handled very well. And yes, now it handles better than very weller :P. Like I stated when I drove it after the alignment I thought perhaps I was experiencing a $385 "placebo" effect, my DW confirmed I was not.
Roland
That price seems to be very reasonable to be able to get the DW's confirmation. Most men usually add flowers, chocolate or diamonds :o
I agree that it can be better. Mine was adjusted at factory after I bought it an there was noticeable improvement. I think there is still too big of deadband going straight. Of course I also have the problem of getting out of a sporty car and into the RV.
Bob, nice post. You're comment ("Somewhere in the system is an issue." ) has been in the back of my mind, and now that I'm reading this thread of alingment/steering issues rekindles thoughts.
I had been unhappy with what I thought... should be...better and easier steering control, on the coach I bought last year, a 2001 40' U320 with low miles, but/and, no 'real' problem, just too much attention to keeping her straight. I felt even after the alignment that I asked for..that too much attention was required to drive straight... wandering might still be an issue.
FOT /wayne worked on it last fall and it did improve. I was happier..........but kept to myself, that I thought it should be better.
Toe In, I think, if increased a tad, can keep it better on track and if so, what should one care about tire wear... "We never wear these tires out!" Could a bit more Toe-In benefit what we drive? Michelins are soft and ride nice... but could 'that'minute flexing, make a difference in the attention that we seem to address to steering?
Old ftx's with the dodge chassis had air tag axles where the sides had individual controls for pressure. If you were crossing the plains and the wind was blowing steady you could raise the downwind sides tag pressure and slowly straighten the steering wheel.
Early unihomes has the manual leveling controls on the floor. Same thing could be done. Raise the downwind side a little and you could normally center the steering.
Love to have an manual override system on a late model tag wheels ride height valve to be able to compensate for winds and road crowns.
Foretravel put the valve on a pivot and ran a cable to the valves top side. Changed the neutral position by rotating the ride height valves body itself. Used to be able to make those original unihomes do tricks. Side slopes, deep dips, drive over curbs and concrete parking lot stops then let it down. I don't think the manual control of the tag would hurt a unicoach. Required a hole in the floor but what the heck. Nowadays someone might have an electric way to change the center position of a ride height valve? Or to twist it?