We replaced our ignition switch because of an intermittent problem when turning key to start – nothing happened. Even though switch is original, we are not sure it had a problem, but we replaced it anyways.
Ignition switch has 5 parts: key cylinder, chrome ring, rear wide cast adapter, switch, wiring plug. All parts are reused, except switch. New switches come with or without new key cylinder. We reused our original key cylinder after applying a little graphite.
Key cylinder has a collar that prevents the chrome ring from being removed. Note position of keyway & small hole so cylinder can be re-installed in same position. Rotate key cylinder CCW to accessory position, insert paper clip in small hole to press spring loaded pin while turning key CCW, pull cylinder out of switch. Rear of cylinder has two ears that fit into switch groves that only releases when fully turned CCW. Paper clip is not needed to reinstall cylinder.
Key cylinder has a side bar that sticks out when key is not in lock. This bar fits into a long grove in ignition switch, preventing turning on ignition switch without key. When correct key is inserted in cylinder the bar collapses into switch allowing cylinder to rotate.
Wiring plug behind dash has two large forward facing black plastic hooks/tabs that must be released to pull wiring plug off the ignition switch. Of the 4 connectors on the ignition switch, our coach did not have a wire to the ignition switch accessory connection, and did not have a wire to the outer battery 2nd connection.
While using a flat screwdriver in a grove to hold outer chrome ring from rotating, grab switch by hand or tool, rotate switch CCW to unscrew switch from chrome ring.
Rear cast adapter slips off ignition switch and can only be installed in one position. We had to file away some metal on the adapter so it would easily slip onto new switch.
Barry,
When I had intermittent issues (turn key and nothing, i.e. no dash lights) I too replaced the ignition switch. Installed new switch, turn key, NOTHING. On to the main solenoid, replaced it and all was well. I put the old ignition switch back in the circuit to see if it was OK and it was. I reinstalled the new switch and keep the old one as a spare as I know it works.
About 9 months later, maybe 10K miles, the intermittent problem returned and I went straight for the main solenoid (located behind pass kick panel on my coach). I had a spare so I just swapped it out and now once again I have reliable starts. I disected the bad solenoid (just pry around the crimped edge to separate the two pieces of the can) and found what appeared to be a film of carbon in the contact area, I scrubbed that off with an eraser and retested it. That did the trick and I put it back together to keep as another spare.
I picked up a couple of more spare solenoids for about $15.00 each on e-bay and know that when the intermittent issue arises I head straight for the solenoid and replace it. I know I could have bought one of the Blue Sea solenoids for close to $200 but I have had these other solonoids last for years without problems and feel that the one that crapped out so quickly was just a fluke. Time will tell.
I had posted this info earlier but this is an important topic for new owners.
No start! (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=16917.msg110521#msg110521)
If your coach exhibits the "no dash lights" problem when you turn the key it is most likely the main solenoid and you had better know where it is. By reading about the main solenoid years ago on the Yahoo forum Solenoids (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=6942.msg29862#msg29862) I had a spare on board when my first problem arose, kind of knew what to look for and probably avoided a tow and a large repair bill. This forum is invaluable to us all.