I think I would really like to swap the placement of the fuel gauge (top row centered) and transmission temp gauge (bottom row far left). I think the trans temp is probably one of the most important gauges on the dash, and it just seems it would make a lot more sense being in the top row. In all honesty I don't trust the fuel gauge very much so moving it down and all the way to the left where is isn't the first gauge I see when I look down only makes sense (to me). The other thing to do would be swap the trans temp with volts (currently top row far left). This might be easier as far as getting the wires to reach.
Anyone done anything like this?
Second question is, in looking for an answer to the above, I'm starting to think my dash is supposed to be illuminated in some way? Currently only the gauges light up and the row of warning lights. Is something else supposed to happen? Do the dash panels light up? The A/C control knobs? :help:
In this link it refers to "Illuminated Dash Panels" but doesn't explain what that means.
1997 Foretravel U320 Specifications (http://beamalarm.com/foretravel-links/models/1997_foretravel_u320_specifications.html)
The thin bands along the perimeter of the three dash panels light up when the driving/head lights are turned on. These also flash when using the "Flash" & "Markers" on/off feature of the smart wheel.
(edit) Flash buttons on Smart wheel will also light up/flash the dash perimeter lights
I don't think there's any problem swapping gauges as long as the appropriate wires reach and the lights should be interchangeable on the same size gauges. I believe that 97's have electroluminescent dashes, and yes, heater controls and the lines around the perimeter of the dash light up. If you have turned up the rheostat for the brightness of the dash lights and you don't see any electroluminescence, perhaps the dash inverter is bad or disconnected. On our 99', the dash inverter is underneath the dashboard behind and to the left of the steering column behind the carpeted panel and it's made by Javelina corp. On the other hand, somebody's done some extensive cutting on the dash chances are electroluminescent system is damaged. It's hard to get a picture of how it looks at night, but here's one that should give you an idea...
Edit: Found a another picture of the dash backlighting that shows all three of the panels. I just think this looks so cool... ;D
Don
This brings up questions, If you have the electronic engine, the VMSpc gives great info on many levels, also, my smart wheel has no lighting, maybe it is just not working or it never got it. Also I have never been able to get a straight answer from either MOT or FOT why my DC Volt meter reads up to 32 VDC range, and never have seen anyothers show anything but the 16 VDC max. It does show the correct reading in the 12-14 VDC area, but the scale is for 32 VDC. More reasons I watch the VMSpc and tend to ignore the dash gauges.
So all ears for info.
Dave M
Dave,
You should have a 2nd Generation Smart wheel. These are supposed to have lighting for the cruise, Flash signals, as well as the wiper controls.
Don ~ My dash doesn't light up like that. I have a small black box in that area behind the carpeted panel under the wheel, does that sound like the dash inverter? It only has 3 wires I can see (Red, Black, Green). Any idea how I test it?
Dave - Are you saying the smart wheel is supposed to light up too? Mine does not.
Fixing both of these issues would be a huge improvement in night time driving.
I'm searching and searching but not finding much info. :help:
The smart wheel on my 2001 u320 has never illuminated since I've owned it ~2003; I understood that there is no lighting for that model year. Anyone have any further information on this. I would love to learn that the wheel is capable of lighting with the solution to make it happen.
Douglas, if all else fails, give FOT a call and ask them.
My first coach ( 1997 U320) the dash lit up like Dons does. If anyone has done any cutting or drilling on your dash, chances are the trim lights are shot.
Richard B.
Fiddler,
I have the same year and model coach and according to both FT and SmartWheel that year of steering wheel does not light. Darn
I really don't see any signs of anything being cut or drilled. I'm thinking it should be able to get this working again, which would make me very very happy.
If the SmartWheel doesn't light up that's not as big of a deal, but I would really like to get the dash lights working.
Who would you ask to talk to at FOT? Any one in particular?
Douglas, ask for Billy Jack. Give him your build number and tell him what you want to know.
Richard B.
Someone posted a link for a cheaper priced PS/inverter a few weeks back.
We made the gauge swap you are talking about, several years ago. The original sender wires reached their new locations. Only one wire needs to swap as the other is common ground. Makes sense to have coolant and transmission temps next to each other, besides we don't look a fuel gauge very much as we only fill based upon odometer when 7 mpg will give us between 35 and 70 gallons at Pilot.
I think you will find that your coach came with electroluminescent dash powered by an Inverter that changed 12 volts to a high voltage. Inverters usually are the problem when dash does not light up. Our model has bulbs and sockets behind dash.
Your Smart Wheel doesn't light. FT Parts has rebuilt dash inverters.
I was wondering if it wouldn't be less expensive ( if that's a factor) to get a small 10" PC and add a silverleaf monitoring system? I can see all my critical gauges and whether my cruise is on or off with a quick glance.
Dave, my smart wheels in my 1999 and current 2000 don't light up
I use a 10" Acer with an I7 and an OCZ solid state drive. Does the job quite well.
Peter,
My smart wheel has all the features, just does not illuminate at night.
Think I should ask FOT what build # the illumination started.
As for the gauges, having the 32 VDC meter, my guess it might also have the 24 volt bulbs as it does not illuminate very well, do not need a flashlight but close.
Dave M
dash inverter (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=17644.0)
Everyone pays way too much attention to trans temps in my experience. Trans is made to run 275 plus continuously in a garbage truck or other heavy duty use. ,
What mileage do you get on yours.
Drove mine 70-75 and even more in passing situations in the mountains and tow a 3,000 pound car. Plus 10 hours gen time and ten hours aqua hot. 6.53mpg. 1560 miles in 24.5 hours. 64mph moving average.
There are at least a few members who would disagree. There is at least one case of the transmission retarder temp highlighting an issue with a gasket in the transmission. Had the owner not been paying attention to the temperature, the repair cost would have been much higher.
Hope the tires were rated for that. A number of models have a recommended 65 mph max (as do some toads)
Xca-1 pilots are 75mph rated. Thanks for the heads up for the 65mph folks.
In general most rv'ers are paranoid about any temp gauge movement.
Either way at least the trans temp seems to be fairly accurate. That fuel gauge is not. So I just wonder why just a prominent location.
I don't know yet. I've got about 1500 miles but it was all just about totally empty, no toad, only fuel and some water. We shall see, what kind of mileage I can get but I hope it's at least 7mpg, 8 mpg would be even better.
Previous owner mentioned that at 60mph my coach gets 10mpg on his silverleaf.
Fuel gauge is adjustable on the tank sending unit visible when you raise the passenger side fuel fill door.
Little flst blade screw on the bottom of the round brass sending unit is the adjustment for the top half of the gauges indication scale. Mine now reads past full on the gauge when its full and accurate at 1/2 and 2/3 down.