We need to replace some tired gaskets on the bays our '03. We'll probably do all 8 side bays at the same time. At about 150 linear inches/bay, that's 100 feet of gasket.
Did a quick search of the board, I saw where Barry B. had gotten his from FOT.
Does anyone have a P/N for the gasket material so we can price-compare? There are a couple of options that look possible ($2.25-$3.50 per linear foot) at McMaster-Carr but we don't know if any are the right P/N. Of course if FOT is price-competitive we'll order from them (Barry - got a unit price?)
Michelle
Michelle,
Try these folks. Lots of RV parts including door trim seal.
Custom RV Parts, RV Parts Manufacturer, and RV Accessories at All-Rite (http://www.all-rite.com)
Keith
Michelle:
For my 1992 U 240 I just clipped off a piece and sent it to the B-D Company in Denver and in about a week or so they sent back their part number and a sample that provided the closest match. Great people and as I remember good prices. They worked great. Needed 84 feet of the stuff.
Be careful on the internet to use the URL B-Dco.com or you will get a whole lot of people you don't want.
Al
Michelle,
I purchased 25 feet of from McMaster-Carr (p/n 12335A18) a few years ago - I can't tell the difference between the old and new now. All I did was a dimension match - difficult with rubber. Since there's 12 years between our coaches it might not be the same size. I noticed for the p/n I got the price drops to $1.70/ft if you buy 100' or more.
Michelle, I just replaced mine and got the trim seal from R&p Carriages on ebay. Look up item number 350433434512. They sell it by the foot @ $1.50. Also they do have several different size bulbs and grip ranges.
Thanks for all the info and tips ! (wish I had seen that ebay listing a couple of hours ago as I spent another .20 per foot for the stuff I ordered).
In digging around I found a gasket P/N of 75000720 listed in one of our manuals for "compartment door trim seal". This number appears to be from here (http://www.stanpro.com/Product.aspx?ProductId=75000720), its listed as a Dual Durometer EPDM Trim Seals for Edges .065" to .095" (RS-131). It comes in either a 250' roll or 25' roll.
The measurements on that image match (as best I can tell), the gaskets that we currently have, and our bay flange is 3/32. Using the 25' roll P/N of 75001363 there are a few places selling it, generally in the 1.70 - 1.80 a foot range.
It also looks suspiciously like the McMaster-Carr link above.
Thanks!
Did you buy the 250' roll? If so, we will be right up with our coach! :)
Oh and my shoulder is Really sore so you might have to show us how to replace them!
How do you tell if the gasket is "tired?" Will they actually keep the dust out when new? I live on a gravel road, everything gets a layer of dust, especially the bedroom.
I replaced some of mine due to it starting to slip off the edge of the flange, especially on the bottom edge where it is easy to lean on when reaching inside the bay. When it is not fully engaged on the flange, the doors are harder to closing because the gasket bulb catches on the outer edge of the door. Sometimes the internal grip spring on the gasket is rusted away. Where the spring is OK but the grip seems weak you can lightly squeeze down on the spring with some pliers as an alternative before it's time to replace it.
We can confirm that the 25' roll P/N we bought was the right stuff for our '03 ^.^d With that plus some 3M sealant (for the bottom corners and to assist the "holding" of the bottom edge pieces), all our bays have new gaskets.
Did you use the sealant to close the gap in the corners? That idea would surely help me keep the rodents out (I think).
How fast is the setting time on whatever you used? Did you have to leave the doors open for any appreciable time to allow the sealant to set?
We used 3M black super weatherstrip adhesive (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00063X38M) to join the cut corners together. 3M lists it as a strong, flexible, rubbery adhesive that can withstand vibration, oil, grease and extreme temperature variations, used to bond automotive weatherstripping.
The stuff is a bit like rubber cement, sticks very well to the gasket but is a bit messy. It skins over pretty quickly so you have to make sure to work it in to the joint well. I left the bay doors open for several hours to make sure it was dry. I also used this in the channel of the lower gasket since that tends to get quite a bit of abuse loading/unloading the bays. I also did "flood" the lower corners to seal them completely. Time will tell how well it holds up, but it did seem similar to what was use on the original gaskets.
Replacing the gaskets is easy, the top and sides are done as a single piece, and the bottom gasket is its own section. I found it easiest to start at a corner and work down and out, that made the best corners for me. You have to do some cutting of the gasket channel in a few areas to clear a few things (latches), you will see that was done on the original gasket as well. One roll of 25' would do two of our bays with a few inches of gasket left over.
Steve,
The part number you found for the Foretravel compartment door trim seal appears to be accurate. The trim you purchased was the right one. Thank you very much for the research that led to your discovery and for sharing it with us. I am now in the process of buying some for my bays.
You stated that your edge flange was 3/32". The trim that you bought was for an edge thickness of 1/16" - 3/32". It should fit snugly and tend to stay there.
However (you knew this was coming, didn't you?), your fourth statement, while technically accurate (because it does "look" right), is not the best fit IMHO. Here is my analysis of the difference:
McMaster-Carr part number 12335A18 is for an edge thickness of 3/32" - 1/8". Part number 12335A17 is for an edge thickness of 1/16" - 3/32". They will both work on our 3/32" edge thickness. But, the A18 can handle up to 1/8"; the A17 up to 3/32" and fit just as snugly as your Cooper Standard part number 75000720, which was specified by Foretravel.
The gasket coming loose is one of the problems we hear about when people discover leaks in their bays. I think (obviously with zero experience to draw from) that the tighter edge gap of the McMaster-Carr 12335A17 is a better match to the Foretravel specification than the McMaster-Carr 12335A18. That is the size I will be looking for to replace my problem/missing bay gaskets.
I do not mean to disparage the comment by John Fitz. I do not know what his edge thickness is or what gasket Foretravel used on his RV. As he pointed out, his coach is 12 years older; we do not know whether or not his edge thickness was, in fact, thicker than ours. Furthermore, he stated that it was difficult to measure the rubber gaskets; we are talking about only 1/32" difference. More importantly, he has used that gasket for several years and reports satisfaction with its implementation.
If there is a keeper of part number information, or someone has written an article recommending the use of McMaster-Carr 12335A18, I humbly suggest that they consider changing that reference to 12335A17. (The link would not have to be changed, just the text for the link.)
I hope my reporting of research findings does not offend anyone; that was not my intention. As I learn more about our shared passion, I hope to continue to share my experiences to assist others as others' contributions have helped me.
Trent
Trent,
I agree with what you said ^.^d
Just to note I did not purchase the parts from McMaster Carr as I could not validate it was the exact same stuff from their descriptions, it looks like it though. I shoudl have noted that in my other posts.
I purchased the product from DK Hardware, Catalog Number: 75001363, worked out to $1.80/foot. It drop-shipped from CR Laurence. Our 40' took 5 25-foot rolls. This should be the link, but if not just search the site for that part number Trim Seal 75001363 Black Oversize Bulb (https://www.dkhardware.com/black-oversize-bulb-trim-seal-75001363-75001363-product-19839.html)
This has stayed in place very well, (has not moved at all), and the 3m product I used in the corners has held them together perfectly. Dry bays and an easy repair.
Steve,
Just to confirm: You used the 3M adhesive only in the bottom corners, right? You used the built-in groove in the gasket to mount it to your bay edges, correct?
Okay, now I think I can do it!
Thanks,
Trent
I bought a bunch of it last time I was at the factory. Can't remember what I paid; wasn't too bad. I don't use any adhesive. Just butt up a clean cut and keep the material supple with silicone. Never have any dust or water intrusion. Might be the different design of the old style doors but it works well.
jor
Glad to see my comment about bay seals has brought back this subject. I also suggest doing what Steve has done, glue the corners together as this will help to minimize any tendency of the bottom one to "shrink" and leave a gap there.
Most of these type of problems on our coach's are just "housekeeping ones" but it amazes me these simple things keep getting overlooked by many. To see what I mean just look at pictures posted by anyone and instead of looking at the "subject matter" at the time, have a look at the peripheral things as well and you will see what I mean.
JohnH
How do you guys negotiate the 90˚ bends at the top of the frame? Just cut a 45˚ in the metal portions and bend around? Picture would be helpful. This one is on my todo list.
see ya
ken
Ken, if I needed to do this one I would do all 45 deg cuts top and bottom and glue together, much neater
JohnH
Going by memory here, the top and two verticals were done as a single piece, you will have to make some simple cuts in the channel (not the gasket) to work around bolts and to help in the corners, but the original one you pull out will show you what you have to do.
The bottom channel is a separate piece, for that I'm pretty sure I ran a small bead of the adhesive in the channel and then pressed it on. That adhesive may not be necessary, but since the lower channel tends to get the most abuse, and is removed by pushing down, I figured it was a good thing to do.
*nods* and its amazing sometimes how these little fixes make a huge change, you just forget how well some things used to work until you do a little housekeeping on them.
I seem to recall those are outside corners so not much cutting was required, if any. You work your way around the opening, so up to a corner and around, pulling down and in to place. I'll take a picture of what we have.
ETA the corner pics, on ours the metal in the corners is cut back at 45 degrees so thats why the gasket wraps so well, YMMV
I just cut mine on the inside. You can see the cut in this photo. No adhesive.
jor
@jor I like that. Looks clean and easy. :)
see ya
ken
Well, I had my doubts that my flange would be a different thickness than later years but I was surprised to see that it is indeed 1/8" thick (I measured it twice too making sure the calipers were on square). I agree that the 12335A17 should work better on a 3/32" flange. One thing I just noticed is Steve's flange is black and the structure is square on the very bottom (I wonder if it's steel ?) On my coach (which looks absolutely identical to Jor's) the flanges are an aluminum extrusion with white paint and the bottom flange is a different extrusion that radiuses down with a channel that the 2"(or 1-1/2") floor fits into. So I would guess the design changed some between '95 and '03. Anyone else notice this?
I was wondering if anyone knows the price Foretravel charges.
John,
Thanks for the followup. Wonder if it had anything to do with the change from Unihome to Unicoach?
Trent
The change to the bottom trim happened in the 2000 model year. Ours is a 99' and it had the white aluminum trim with a radius on the bottom. The newer style bottom trim has a different profile and is black, but is still aluminum. I changed ours to the newer style, which is
easier said than done. I had a few reasons for doing so, but cosmetics were not among them.
The fiberglass skin which FOT used on the basement (walls, ceiling, floor, bottom skin) is .060" FRP which can be found by the trade name "Filon". This distinct from the side walls and roof of the coach, which is hand laid fiberglass with UV resistant gelcoat as the final layer. Many SOB's use the Filon on the walls and roofs of their coaches as the outside skin and laid up fiberglass only for the end caps. Anyway, I couldn't find a local source for the .060" FRP and had to use .090" FRP which I could get in 4'X10' sheets. Since I had to use one layer of the .090" for the utility compartment floor, and one for the bottom skin (the first 4' of the bottom skin, the remaining 10' of the bottom skin I was able to remove intact and reuse). Anyway, the two thicker layers of FRP added a total of .060", or roughly 1/16" to the thickness of the basement structure. The original trim would not fit properly on the utility compartment portion of the basement, though I attached it anyway for the trip to Nacogdoches.
I purchased two 20' sections of the new style trim (known by the parts guys as "batten") from FOT. The price seems quite reasonable to me, with the black newer style about a dollar less per foot than the older white, radiused profile used up to 99'. I think the Unicoaches up to 99' and the U280 and U300 used the same stuff. I am attaching pictures which show the difference. I added 2" wide ⅛" thick aluminum flat stock to the bottom lip of the newer style black batten (trim) material to make up for the fact that the earlier style sills on the bottom of the coach were made out of 1.5"X1.5"X1/8" angle iron. This allowed the bottom trim to overlap the bottom skin and framing enough to attach with screws. I believe that the 2000' and later coaches have square tubing right to the outer edge of the basement, so the profile of the newer trim batten over wraps the 1.5" thick frame and the the combined thickness of two layers of Filon that makes up the finished flooring and bottom skin. The skin is impervious to water, and protects the steel frame as long as the seams and all penetrations are sealed... if not, you know what can happen. Hopefully the pictures will clarify what I am saying. ::)
Don
Edit: I neglected to mention that both of the types of aluminum batten are ⅛" thick. Here are a cople of pictures. This is a utility compartment lower door which I purchased from FOT. I am embarrassed to say how much I paid for it! I am using the old style for the moment because I want to make my own out of some left over trim batten that I still have. Even the parts guy looked at this one when he sold it to me and said it looked thrown together...
Don,
I know you were trying to say something here, but I cannot figure it out. Would you please clarify or rephrase the above quote?
Thanks,
Trent
Fixed above... at least fixed to what I thought it said.
changed to "I changed ours to the newer style, which
easier is said than done." which was just to say that it wasn't a simple parts swap, which hopefully is clear in the pictures. Difficult to picture perhaps, unless you have had it apart and contemplated trying to make it fit yourself.
Don
Don,
It is amazing how much easier it is to understand what you were trying to say. :)
Trent
Don,
Thank you for the great explanation. I don't think this subject has ever been covered on the forum. Good info on the Filon too.
Steve,
I thought that we had this all resolved. And then Don added his expertise to the mix. So I am now really confused. Here is my dilemma:
Last year you discovered the gasket part number in one of your Foretravel manuals. The spec for that part number was for a bay flange up to 3/32" and you bought some, installed it, and reported nirvana.
Later, JohnFitz reported he had acquired a different part number with which he was happy. I noticed that the gasket he bought was for a slightly thicker flange, up to 1/8". John, who had an older coach measured his flange as 1/8" and all seemed right with the world. Until someone wondered when the flange size changed.
Don shared his experience and said he thought it was with the 2000 model year. He had purchased a couple of sticks of the new flange from Foretravel when he was rebuilding his 1999 Foretravel. Again, all seemed right with the world. Until he went and posted that picture with his fancy wancy caliper, showing that the new Foretravel flange measured 1/8", as well as his old one.
Now my nice stable world is out of balance. Do I need the 3/32" gasket material like Uncle Steve, or the 1/8" stuff like cousin Don? I took my trusty $1.99 HF caliper out to Ducky to find out. Sure enough, mine is also 1/8".
Now the dilemma:
Did Stevie lie to us about the size of his flange? (Usually people say bigger is better. :) Or was he just inept at measuring his flange? Maybe he used the $0.97 caliper from Big Lots; or maybe he just eyeballed it with his trusty tape measure. Or even worse, he ASSUMED that since Foretravel specified 3/32" then it must be 3/32", ipso facto!
"What difference does it make at this time?", some may ask. It is too late for an investigation. But here you have TulsaTrent, with his first RV, needing to buttress his flange. What size rubber device does he need to use? Is it possible that Foretravel specified a smaller edge gap to make the gasket grip the flange tighter?
I don't know, I don't know. What am I to do? Do I follow the Foretravel specs, Or do I do what Steve did, or what John did, or whatever Don is cooking up in his laboratory?
I am open to suggestions; do I order the 3/32" or 1/8" gaskets?
Thanks,
Trent
P.S.: For those who have not yet noticed, I have a very dry sense of humor. My therapist blames it on my three years in the seminary.
I would say that here is a case of much ado about nothing... The metal backing of the gasket material is quite malleable. I believe that Foretravel may have specified the 3/32" just to insure a tight fit. Everything in the coach that I have taken apart was cut to fit tight, be it cabinets, moulding, whatever... it's the Foretravel way! I bet that is one reason there is vey little noise going down the roads that isn't owner added stuff. I bought about 6' of the stuff from Foretravel (don't remember the per foot price, but I do remember being shocked that it seemed to close the per foot price extruded aluminum trim), and I had no problem putting it on. Gripped nicely and stays put, but for the money, I will probably go with this stuff for $1.50 a foot;
Trim Lok Lock Seal 1 8" x 5 8" Bulb A Side Door Rubber | eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/351126694632?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)
Just my take on it...
Don
Don,
I agree.
Apparently you missed my attempt at humor.
Trent
Could be... wouldn't be the first time.
Having spent a week looking at Don and Tys's coach from all angles (and of course from underneath) I have to say that Don spends a lot of time thinking about a problem before tackling it. I love the way FT builds their coach's but have to say they do not put the care and finess into them like he does.
All I can say is "take his word and knowledge on this subject as he did an unbelievable job) especially as he was laying on his back doing it ^.^d ^.^d
I doubt there is another coach that is rebuilt to this standard.
JohnH
Well 'blush' thanks John, that is quite the compliment... especially coming from you. Some (okay, most...) would say I tend to overthink things, and maybe I do at times. Still, I try to do the best work I can and most of the time it works out alright. I wish I could be as prolific as you... maybe when I grow up ;D
Don
Just an FYI, I updated Steve's sourcing post on the first page of this thread with the correct link (DK Hardware) and cost (~$1.80/ft)
A true necrobump for a little PSA
When I replaced the bay door gaskets on our previous coach, I ordered from DK Hardware, they drop-shipped directly from CR Lawrence. The part number I item ordered was 75001363 Trim Seal Black Oversize Bulb: CRL Black Oversize Bulb Trim Seal® | CRL (https://www.crlaurence.com/All-Products/Automotive-Windows-%26-Supplies/Automotive-Window-Glass-Accessories/Trims-%26-Moldings/CRL-Black-Oversize-Bulb-Trim-Seal%C2%AE/p/75001364?gtmPage=&queryId=d8133a369340ab94f0339e405b666eeb&location=plp%7cpdp) That ended up being a perfect OEM match, it fit great.

Wanting to update the bay gaskets on the new coach, I ordered the same item, this time from Home Solutions, who also had the item drop shipped from CR Lawrence. Although the part number was the same, and the catalog shows the correct cross section, what you get is
much different. The shape of the bulb is different, which may work, but the spine is larger/thicker and does NOT easily fit in the channel or make the various turns. We attempted to contact CRL to see if the product had changed. They were quick to respond only to tell us they would give us no information as they were B2B only and we were not a business. They would not even say if the product had changed. Home Solutions was no help as they did not respond to any contact attempts. We were finally able to get a refund.
Decided to give things another shot, this time through Summit Racing, who listed a bulb seal from Fairchild Industries: https://fairchildindustries.com/products/industrial/trim-seal-1363/ which has the same dimensions as the CRL one; it even appears to use the same drawings. Here is the link to the product on Summit's site: Fairchild Industries Weatherstrip Seals, Individual Position 1362-25 (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/fcd-1362-25) This drop-shipped from Failchild and once again was the (same) **wrong** stuff we got from CRL. Summit does make the return/refund process pretty easy.
So now I'm thinking some merger took place and these companies made some freak universal item to reduce P/N's or ? ? ?
The next place that appeared to have the fabled chalice bulb is Cooper Standard Push-on Trim | Cooper Standard (https://www.cooperstandard.com/products/catalog-parts/product-detail/Push-on%20Trim?search_api_fulltext=75001363) The site says it's a built-to-order item / request a quote.
We could have redone the bay gasket in 10 coaches at this point, so we contacted FOT and verified they were still using the original gasket; they were, so we ordered "a bunch" of P085352 Weatherstrip - URED. One nice thing is they sent a continuous length (they order it in 250' rolls), so there was little cutoff waste. I know what you want to know ... The cost was $4.27 a foot with the MC discount. I will not mention the shipping charges as it brings me great sadness.
I can confirm based on what I received, it is from Cooper Standard; I added the details here: Part Number Collection (https://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=11472.msg492624#msg492624)
Summary: As of this post I do not recommend ordering the gasket from CR Lawrence (CRL) or Fairchild industries as what they ship is not compatible. Instead use the seal from Cooper Standard which you can try to get directly (I did not) or get it from FOT.
Thanks for Bird dogging that weather strip. Takes a lot of time to chase things down