Does anyone know of a good fiberglass repair shop near Orlando. I need to get new mounting brackets glassed into the generator hatch and the engine (rear door) hatch. Foretravel has the brackets.
Too bad you can not get it to Nac for Rance @ Xtreme, the magic fiberglass shop with sperience.
Also a great time to do the mod to the rear cover, no need for those brackets, one of the best things I have had done.
Dave M
Check with places that repair fiberglass boats. Should be several in that area.
You guys worry me. After reading of fibreglass door problems and hinges I did a good inspection this AM. My hinges are in good condition, no cracking or problems that I can see around them. The strut brackets are all tight and again no cracks or problems. In fact these are the original 18 year old struts and they still work well.
I guess I am lucky and my inner voice says that I should not be tempting fate by even mentioning this.
Gary B
Gary the problem is water has gotten in where the brackets are glassed to the covers causing them to rust, along with a little just jacking going on, and it is not going to get any better.
I'm having some work done at Eagle's Pride RV in Titusville next week. They were reommended by both Zip Dee and MG Brakes as a quality shop. I'm pretty sure the also do fiberglass body work. Their number is (321) 383-0288. Ask for Michael.
My coach's rear engine hatch comes off the lower pins. Rear edge is sticking out after a drive. A little vertical play was noted after carefully closing the door.
Locked at the top. Off the pins at the bottom. Where is the adjustment?
The lower pins rubber parts do not appear to be worn. Does the rubber deteriorate? Then compress?
What wears?
Bob, on my 97 the engine door was doing the same thing. The rubber on the latch was worn a little so I loosened it and turned it to the good side. This helped but did not solve the loose floppy door. I removed the bolt that holds the rubber bumper and with my torch cut a little of the bracket on about a 45 degree angle so that I could move the bolt up a little bit to increase the contact on the door bracket to the rubber. This worked real good. I now have a very steady latch and it doesn't move at all when I pull on it.
So your fix was to physically shorten the distance between the top locking pins and the bottom rubber covered pins?
Is there any other ways?
Mine to has that problem, I took the bolts loose on the rubber pins and turned them over, no help. going to try RonB's soultion, although I will use a die grinder to elongate the holes. Also the door being loose causes mine to rattle big time at idle.
Bruce, I too thought I would use my die grinder, but I was getting so much chatter from the tool bit that I gave up and got out the torch. I would have preferred the grinder method but was seeing little progress with it and the torch made a clean cut and did the job that I was looking for. Word of caution if using the hot wrench near fiberglass, have some water handy. :-X
Took me a while to figure out the banging noise I was hearing driving might be the rear cover banging against the bolts. At least its not subframe issues or the sides falling off.