Well, the water gauge was working, however, now it isn't! The foil strips are pretty hard to get at on our 95. They are behind the water heater and the only access is through a little compartment wall port hole. I did my best but it just wasn't good enough. Anyhow, we'll probably go with SeeLevel in the future but for now, I knocked off GaryB's very excellent, basic, nifty level. This will be especially handy when filling to avoid the slop over down the bulkhead. Just have to add a floater of some kind. Maybe cork or a colored ball from a hydrometer.
jor
Jor,
Don't worry about stopping just before full to not slop down the bulkhead. Soon as you drive off, the sloshing of the freshwater will soak the bulkhead guaranteed.
Will it slosh out if I am only 2/3 full?
best, paul
Paul,
I think it depends on how vigorous the slosh is and how full the tank is. So, if 2/3 full, drive gently. But that would be very hard to do I think.
I drove behind a tank trailer going smoothly down the interstate and watched a sight tube vary by over 1/4 tank.
If the Audit monitor shows 3/4 full on any tank, it is pretty much full. If it shows empty, that means the tank is less than 1/4 full. I called Javelina to asked about calibration. The answer was, "You can try to calibrate by adjusting the aluminum tape patches." We find the bad readings adequate for most of our adventures.
I have a float valve near the top of the fresh water tank that shuts off the fill (RO filter boost) pump when the tank is full. I normally keep the tank full if a water hookup is handy. I've never seen evidence of water overflowing from the fresh water tank. Perhaps I've never looked hard enough.
I was snooping about under the coach last week. I saw no significant rust anywhere. Bulkheads look good. I saw no spots that appeared to be subject to frequent dowsing.
JD,
Did you install the float valve in your tank? I've been thinking that would be something that I would like to do... Do you have any details about the installation: such as part numbers, pictures, or such?
Is it a solenoid or a mechanical switch that shuts off the water? And does it also shut off the city water if you have that available?
Thanks, Don
Don,
I installed an RO filter system that filters all water going into the fresh water tank. It comprises two paper/fiber filters, one carbon filter, two cascaded RO filters, a high pressure 28VAC pump, a solenoid valve, and the float switch. The float switch controls the pump and a valve that blocks the shore water when the pump is off. I got all the parts from RV Water Filter Store. Rich at RV Water Filter Store was very helpful. It takes several hours to fill the tank if it is low on water. In a campground with water, I simply turn on the system and it keeps the tank full of RO water. If I don't have the luxury of time to fill, I can easily bypass the RO filters and run the water through the first three filters into the normal fill port. The automatic shutoff does not work in that case.
The mechanical float switch was easy to install near the top of the fresh water tank. I drilled a hole in the tank and sealed the fitting and valve with a touch of silicone caulk. (Kent would probably recommend urethane.) It could control a light or solenoid valve. Several float switches could be installed to provide a reliable "home brew" monitoring or control system.