Has anyone changed the front wheel bearing oil. I want to replace with synthetic and wonder if I can do this myself without special tools, pulling the wheel off, etc. Thanks.
"We" just did this on our coach.
"We" meaning Steve ;) I just asked my usual annoying questions...
He used a manual fluid pump purchased at NAPA to get the old oil out after removing the red caps (https://www.foreforums.com/imagecache.php?image=http%3A%2F%2Fpartimages.genpt.com%2Flargeimages%2F307779.jpg&hash=7901832474c9eab0ab02f0ea72c0b96c" rel="cached" data-hash="7901832474c9eab0ab02f0ea72c0b96c" data-warn="External image, click here to view original" data-url="http://partimages.genpt.com/largeimages/307779.jpg)
He also did the tag.
Peter,
I believe on our vintage coach there is a drain plug on the side. Just need to rotate wheel until the plug is on the bottom. Easy job to just drain (using pump or plug) and fill again through center.
Yes, I popped off the cover and I see the drain plug. How much oil will I need for both sides?
Not sure on your coach but we did both front and tag axles with somewhere between 2 and 3 quarts, I think. The front held much less than the tag. Last time we had FOT do just the front for us, they charged for 1 quart (likely the smallest increment).
-M
Most commercial operations like the Lucas Hub Oil type for non powered wheel bearings.
I talked to the service manager at Boyer Trucks - Rogers MN today (where I just had the differential changed to synthetic). He said the plug in the hub cap is intended for filling, and to drain he suggested removing the hub cap and then either put in a new gasket or use silicone gasket seal to put it back on. However, this won't completely drain the bearing cavity, to do that requires removing the wheel and hub - more than I want to tackle... He did say to drain what I can and re-fill with synthetic would be a good thing, even if it is not a complete oil change. I'm thinking the front hub oil is pretty old, so will do the change this weekend.
Peter,
Just use a transmission pump to pump out what you can from the fill plug. Fill. Next time it is convenient, do it again. You will have effectively changed 90% of the fluid.
I would NOT break down the hub to completely drain-- never heard of that one.
Brett, excellent suggestion, I like the idea. I have a short piece of flex hose that will fit nicely on DW's turkey baster, that should do it. Carol and Michelle, promise you won't say anything...
As long as you get her a new, fancier turkey baster my lips are sealed :D
Michelle, Bingo indeed, they work great and are cheap and dependable too. :o
I have used a turkey baster before to remove antifreeze out of the radiator overflow tank. I washed it real good when I was done...
Maybe you should throw in a new All-Clad roasting pan to go with that new, fancier turkey baster..... I'm just sayin'...
Oh boy, now look what I got myself into...and I started out just asking about changing hub oil...
Amazon.com: All-Clad Stainless Roasting Pan with Rack and Turkey Forks: Kitchen (http://www.amazon.com/All-Clad-Stainless-Roasting-Turkey-Forks/dp/B0000DI4P6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1369791645&sr=8-1&keywords=all+clad+roaster)
Having had many front hubs apart, I find the amount of oil you can suction out via the hole in the plastic cover window would be about 2 oz +/- little, and the total amount to be about 1.5 pint of oil (best I can recall) so if you are not removing the outter bearing and then sucking out the oil in the galley, you are not making very much difference in the total volume of oil.
And when replacing and setting the bearing to specs, and torqueing then securing. (CORRECTLY), This is where things get past the average housewife part.
Of course as usual FWIW.
Dave M
My mechanic buddy said to pull the wheel to drain it completely. So when he replaced the seals it was done.
Bob
Yes, pulling a wheel and replacing all seals WILL to a better job.
BUT, for those who don't want to spend an hour per wheel of hard labor (with added $$ for seals) and a digital caliper OR pay for same, sucking it out and changing it twice (or if really anal three times) is a lot faster and less expensive.
But, do what you are comfortable with.
Brett
Our hub covers do not have anything on them except "OIL LEVEL" The new covers have ADD & FULL circles. What should the level be on my old covers?
Oil level-- which is just below the fill plug with wheels on level ground.
The fill plug is the red cap? When I spoke to James T. yesterday, he said the level should be at the ring below the OIL LEVEL lettering on the window. Since this ring is barely noticable and only slightly above the metal window retainer I am totally confused. I sent the same post to him to see what his take is.
FT said the oil level on the old style glass should be midway between the upper and lower rings to be perfect. Midway on a letter @ the 6 o'clock position would be no problem. As bearings are in a cavity, oil level would have to be non visible to have potential bearing lubrication issues.
Right after I bought our coach, I found that the front wheels were low on oil so I put some in. Shortly thereafter I found that the inner seals were bad and that I now had well oiled front brake pads. Although most of the oil had leaked out the bearings were still okay. The pads and rotors were cleaned with a brake parts cleaner so they did not have to be replaced. So if you find that hub oil is low, you probably need new seals as hubs don't use oil like an engine. When adding oil to the hub you have to wait for the oil to settle to get the level correct.
Most, if not all shaft seals are designed to operate with oil below the seal lip. The lip is not in direct contact with the shaft as failure from heat would occur within a short period of time. Oil provides a film between the two surfaces. Improper oil level will create a leak across a seal that is in serviceable condition. The only seals designed to operate with high levels are mechanical seals, which also leak vapor across the sealing elements while operating to provide lubrication.
It has been my experience that seals are often changed for the wrong reason.
I need to go take a closer look for things like level windows and drain plugs, I can't find any such so far. Rereading this thread made me go dig through the manuals, where I found 2 conflicting sets of books as to what manner of axles are in this rig..hmmph. time to crawl under there and then see if there's a hub cover on those wheels that comes off easily..
Jay,
No need to crawl under. The wet hub fill/level indicator are on the outside of the front wheels. Many have a removable small center cap.
But they might be covered up by a chrome hub cap in the center of the wheel. I cut a hole in mine to access the hub level window and rubber cap.
Why, so there is. I think I'll go ahead and do a drain n fill...