I have a slow drip up front on the right side of the generator that I assume is from the heater core. Can I just loop the outbound and inbound hose back at the motor for now as I never use the dash heater?
George, Check to see if their is a drain in that area. I found water dripping in that area too. I noticed it was clear water, i.e. no color as would be expected from antifreeze. Then on closer inspection I found a hose stub that was cut at an angle, see photo. It turned out to just be condensation.
Yes, but better to install a ball valve--two is even better (on on IN and OUT at the heater core) and leave it/them closes.
A loop will work, but you flow through the motor-aid portion of the water heater will be substantially reduced.
Brett I have a gas water heater, no aqua hot, is there a motor aid on mine?
I thought the coolent control valve in the system controlled coolent flow to the heater core to control temp and in the off position made a loop back to the engine as part of the system? Gam
Our 1997 U295 has the motor aid for the water heater.
To test yours, leave the propane and electric heaters for the water heater in the off state. Start with no hot water in the water heater if you can. Drive for a couple of hours, or all day. See if you have hot water at the tap.
Also, there is a multi-turn faucet valve near our water heater. I think it is supposed to adjust hot water flow between the water heater and the dash heater. I've not noticed any difference when I changed the setting of that valve.
Yes, but the failure of this valve to close completely has accounted for a lot of "why isn't my dash A/C cooling properly. A couple of bucks on ball valves guarantee no water flow. Not a bad idea on all systems-- leave the valve(s) closed in the summer.
I think you guys just saved me a bunch of money at the local truck A/C shop. Forgot all about shutting that valve, and DW kept telling me that I had to get the A/C fixed!!! Hopefully I just fixed it.
To be sure we had a heater core leak and not dash air condensate, I put a catch container under the heater core drain hose to accumulate the drips. Measuring the container contents with a hydrometer proved it was antifreeze. Since it was summer and did not have a current need for dash heat, we put ball valves on in & out heater hoses located on side of engine.
Dash heaters use coolant valves usually located near generator area. .Some of these valves just turn off the input heater hose and leave the other heater hose open. Another type of valve has a bypass function that when fully or partly closed, the input heater hose flows all or some coolant back to engine.
There would be no problem removing the heater valve and connecting the in-hose to the out-hose, to stop the heater core from losing coolant. Making the loop back at generator area would keep hot water tank motor heat working.
Thanks for the help guys, going to get into it in the morning. Will let you know if I have any surprises.