My 2002 U270 has the Keyless Entry option, and the module that controls the deadbolt in the door has broken. I took the door apart and extracted the module to examine it. There are several plastic gears, and one that seems to act as a limiter has an arc broken off. I suspect I need a new module, as I doubt I can find just a replacement little gear.
Has anyone experienced this problem? Any good third party sources for a replacement? There are no identifying markings on the unit at all. On the bright side, I did learn how to disassemble the door and get the module out.
Thanks... We are still en route to Liberty Lake to get the slide examined.
Ours broke a while ago, and while there are inexpensive replacement actuators that fit the basement doors (check Barry Beam's site), MES 2 Wire Door lock Actuator (W15F) (http://beamalarm.com/Documents/mes_2_wire_door_lock_actuator.html) I found that they wouldn't fit the entry door, so I moved a working one from one of the basement doors and replaced that one with one of the generic actuators that I had on hand. Of course Foretravel Parts has actuators that will fit the entry door.
Thanks. I found Barry's reference to the MES W15F actuators, but nothing on the door actuator. I've been searching the internet this evening trying to identify what this comes from. (Picture below) If I don't get any success, I'll call Foretravel tomorrow and see what I can fnd out from them. There seem to be lots of generic kits out there to replace it, but I'd like to get a simple bolt-on replacement if I could find what this part was actually engineered for.
Brad,
When mine broke I could not find a direct replacement as the company does not make that unit any more and FOT ran out of stock. If you find them please let me know. I stole the one from the plumbing bay and put in the entry door and then moved the front drivers actuator to the plumbing bay. I have two of Barry's actuators, but got lazy and did not place in the drivers bay. Really no reason to lock that bay door in my opinion, but I keep my coach at the house.
Good Luck,
The nylon gear can be jury rigged to work around the broken arc. Take a small ss screw to protrude at the same height as he borken raised piece; far enough up to mate with the other gear when rotated yet not too far where it blocks the other gear. This serves to substitute for the broken raised piece. When reassembling make sure you place the gear in the right place where upon rotation it trips the lock. Trial and error works here. I fixed mine months ago when FOT did not have a direct replacement. good luck.
Here is what I learned. Finding A1 Electric Automotive Accessories, Power windows, Power door locks, keyless (http://www.a1electric.com). I emailed them a picture and here is their response:
"That's an old Harada actuator. We used to use them in the 80's. Haven't seen them for sale since the late 90's. Harada's current line is completely different. However, it is just a standard aftermarket actuator and can be replaced with an actuator like the W15REG. Electrically it works the same.
You'll just have to adapt the mounting and rebend a new rod."
The item is $14.95, and there is a related item that includes more hardware for $15.95.
https://www.a1electric.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=W15REG
Thanks for the idea, Fiddler. I will see if that will also work until I can get a new actuator. Nice to learn that the bay actuators do essentially the same thing. From the dates, it sounds like this was just another of the old store of parts FT was using to complete coaches during that dim time for the company. 1980s? on a 2002?
I had ordered what I thought was a direct replacement for the actuator only to find out it was not and bending the rod was not anacceptable solution. So I sent it back to Mike Grimes and the fix I described here is still working fine after ~6-7 months. Good luck with the fix.....be patient it will work if you position the gear with the screw correctly.
I think I get what you mean, as the gear looks like it could be repositioned and the broken part just not used, with a small screw head sticking up just a bit. I found a generic actuator from Fresno, CA on ebay for $4.49 delivered, so I have a backup plan. I'll wait til I get back home in 2 weeks and get it done one way or the other, as I have a ton of small screws there.
Don't use the screw head to make the contact. Instead screw it in from the bottom and use the threaded part to protrude. In this way you'll have a more complete anchoring penetration for the screw. I tried the screw head approach and the screw eventually loosened up and had to redo.
Ah... Your experience is appreciated! Thanks for saving me all those screws to take the door apart!