My door actuator recently quit, so I took the door panels and lock stuff apart to remove it (as noted in another thread).
When I reassembled the deadbolt, I noticed a little rust and that it seemed the "blade" that comes out of the cylinder wasn't attached as I am used to on house deadbolts, but rather just seemed to fit into a slot. I honestly can't tell if the thing is broke or not. But after reassembling, I have had a couple of times when I am unable to unlock it from outside with the key, or even move the inside handle without problem. So I am not sure if reassembling it a bit more carefully (when I replace the actuator) is the solution, or if something is broken.
Does an exploded view of the deadbolt assembly exist? Does someone know the brand? I know it is a 6-pin tumbler as I had a heck of a time getting duplicates made. It seems to be similar to a schlage lock. Thanks for any pointers.
We have the Schlage lock on our entry door. My recollection is the little bars that transfer movement from the lock cylinder or the interior lever must be in the proper position. They have some degree of freedom for position during installation. If they are not right, the lock may "almost work." Check out panel 5b in these instructions to see if it provides a clue. http://answers.schlage.com/attachments/token/l3dho9dl8f9wa3m/?name=Deadbolt+Installation+Manual.pdf (http://answers.schlage.com/attachments/token/l3dho9dl8f9wa3m/?name=Deadbolt+Installation+Manual.pdf) The instructions don't provide much detail on positioning those little bars.
After you install the lock, check all combinations of lever and key with the door open. You should be able to lock/unlock with key, lock/unlock with lever, lock with key/unlock with lever, and lock with lever/unlock with key. Whew! If any of the combinations of actions don't work, rearrange the bars.
My deadbolt died the second year we had the coach. I looked all over for a new one and finally found a brand new 5 1/2" one at a locksmith kiosk outside a strip mall in south Buffalo. I installed it and it would not lock. Did some playing around with it, but could not get it to work, so I gave up and we went without.
About two weeks ago a locksmith truck from Buffalo pulled in the driveway. He had the wrong street number and was looking for a neighbor with a travel trailer lock problem. I told him where they lived and mentioned my problem and asked if he could stop back when he was done with them. Now he was already 50 miles from his store and was doing warranty work, so he said he would be glad to check it for me. He did come back and took the dead bolt out. I had it installed up side down and that was why he thought it was not working. But that was not the problem. He had to disassemble it again. He held the dead bolt up at a distance and eyeballed it. It was bent just ever so slightly and would not work because it was hitting the strike. He was able to bend it back so it would lock good as new. He said it is not uncommon for the longer 5 1/2 inch deadbolts to get bent. Said that they get into locked position while door is open and someone pushes it closed, bending the deadbolt.
The best part of the deal was that he would not give me a bill. Said the service call was already paid for by the neighbor's RV warranty company and that he got a nice ride out of the deal. I did see to it that he got a very nice lunch as part of the good deed he did for me!! In fact, a couple lunches. It was well worth it!!!
Just remember that the 5 1/2" setback deadbolts are hard or impossible to find. Unlike Pat's problem most issues are with the locking cylinder not the deadbolt itself. The cylinders are readily available, easy to install and usually under $30. I got mine from Home Depot online, see earlier post for link.
Not sure where the "earlier post" is, Kent. Anyway, I still have it all apart and can't see what is wrong. The long deadbolt itself is fine, and it works with the actuator now. I used Fiddler's method of repairing my old actuator and it now works.
But when I install the lock cylinder, the key does nothing when it turns. The flat "lever" is not attached to the outer cylinder, I cannot understand how it ever worked as it just sits in the back of the cylinder. When I hold it there and turn the key, all works fine. But when I put it together on the door, there seems to be an extra 1/2" or so where the "lever" fits into the interior deadbolt toggle. Nothing to keep it from floating inward and thus not keeping contact with the exterior cylinder to allo the key to turn it. In otherwords, the lever can move inward and when the key is used, it turns the cylinder but not the lever. What is supposed to keep the lever in contact with the cylinder? My house deadlocks have fairly square "levers", and they are firmly affixed inside the lock cylinder and not separate like this one. Here are a couple of pictures of what I am talking about.
After what seems like endless searching on the internet, I believe I have found the answer. I will share here in order to prevent anyone else from having to struggle with the research. My coach spent some time in North Carolina, and I think the humidity there added to a bit of rust development. It took me forever just to be able to find the name of the dang thing.
The flat blade is called a "tail piece" and it is indeed broken. The flat piece should be welded to the small piece inside the back of the cylinder. I suspect that I will be able to find a 1-5/8" long tail piece at the local locksmith shop, but worst case scenario, here is a kit I can purchase from Amazon that includes the correct tail piece, should anyone else end up with a rusty, broken one. The one in my lock appears to be the third from the left. Amazon.com: Global GLA6GAKD-26DM Universal Cylinder Sargent Ga Keyed Different 5 (http://www.amazon.com/Global-GLA6GAKD-26DM-Universal-Cylinder-Different/dp/B008EHFR0O/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1371440106&sr=1-2-fkmr0&keywords=schlage+tail+piece#productDetails) It is also available at Home Depot for $25.00.
My problem was the same as yours. I found the replacement on Home Depot.Com for about the same price. I could not find it this monring but a call to HD.com would probably produce the same results. They are not carried in stores.
All works fine now
Success! Armed with the knowledge of what to call it, I walked in to the local locksmith with my lock in hand and told him "I need a new tail piece for a Schlage lock." He pulled out a box of stuff, took my lock apart to get at the piece that was still inside, and said "Huh. I didn't expect it to look like that." He fished a new one out of the box and even installed it on the cylinder and worked it a few times to make sure it would work. Cost: $3.75. Now I have my door lock working as it should.
As I side note, while working on the door, I took off the PTL locking device that has never worked. Turns out it was extremely rusted, held in the open position, preventing the catch from ever holding the door open. After taking it out, there is a 1/4" Push nut and a 1/2" push nut that hold the thing together. I took it all apart, cleaned all the rust off with a wire brush, and then reassembled it. I was actually able to reuse the old pushnuts (probably because I had taken a trip to the hardware store to but the two items for $.55. I was quite impressed that PTL really did a great engineering job and most of the moveable parts had brass surfaces, so once it was all cleaned up and put back together, it now does exacly as it is supposed to: Holds the door open until the latch is pulled to release the pin.