As some know, I live in my 1989 Grand Villa. It is the best situation considering being transferred by my employer and going to school full time. I have come across a problem with my septic system, I think. My layout is my bath and shower is on the driver's side, but my washer/dryer is on the passenger side just before one gets to the rear bed. I do not have a sewer smell in my bathroom, but I do in the closet across the hall. I do know that the water lines and drains to the washer/dryer go under the closet. Any clues why this is going on and previous experiences of cause and solutions? You folks have always been a wealth of information. Saved me a great deal of time and money in my remodeling and fixing this unit. Thanks ahead of time.
Sounds like the Vent Valve.
The cap has open slots near the top, and inside the cap is a flat, round rubber gasket which functions to let air into, but not out from, the drain pipe. The cap is threaded to fit inside the pipe, at the end of the pipe. When this vent/valve fails, sewer odor is constant in the area.
THE SMELL WE ALL HATE (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=8188.msg35890#msg35890)
Sewer gas smell under the kitchen sink (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=8028.msg35211#msg35211)
STUDOR® | IPS Corporation (http://www.studor.com/plumbing/studor)
Curtis,
One thought comes to mind, air admittance valves
Air Admittance Valves, aka "Stinky Coach Syndrome" (http://www.foreforums.com/index.php?topic=12120.0)
Michelle
ETA - Barry beat me to it :D
And you can get the valves at most hardware stores for ~$5.00 - $10.00 Hand tighten with some pipe dope (a goo, not a person :)) ) on the threads. Good to carry a spare!
I thank you Barry, Michelle, David, and all. I followed my nose and found it in the back of the closet. Oh, do make sure you have a rag. The stink was almost too much. Lowe's has them for almost 6 bucks. I will be going right now to get four of them. Two to replace the existing ones and two spares.
Curtis
Well, I replaced the one in the closet and as long as I keep the closet door shut it is fine, but the stink is now worse. Do you think it is just residual from changing the vent? Let me know if you can think of anything else that could be the culprit. I am ready to empty the closet and look underneath the floor. It really stinks now. Erp.
The drain line goes under the floor to the grey water tank that can stink worse than the black water tank. Close all valves, pour a gallon of bleach down the W/M drain, let sit for several hours, add a cup of Pine-Sol, run a load of wash and dump the tank, should be ok for a month or so.
Curtis - we had a crack in the threaded end of the pipe that one of our air admittance valves screwed into. It wasn't easy to see; Steve found it when he was investigating why the new valve didn't seem to screw in as snugly as expected. You might check for that as well.
Michelle
I would be very worried about the longevity of the rubber seals on the drain valves were you to pour a gallon of bleach into the holding tank.
Basic answer: the holding tanks will ALWAYS smell bad. The objective is not to make the smell good, but to make sure that the "smells" don't get to the inside of the coach-- a very different issue.
Brett
Michelle,
I will check that. Because where I live it is just easier to use the washing machine facilities on the premises I do. After my "crack" investigation, I will use the washer. I have used the dryer, but not the washer. That may help clean out the pipes of any possible stinky backwash. I will see, but for now I have a MBA paper due by Sunday night. Priorities you know. I would rather tinker on my GV than a computer keyboard. On the computer my head hurts all the time and my GV only when I bump it. I will keep you all posted. Thanks all.
I would check the vents on the roof. Something may have built a nest in the vent ,and the air and smell has to go someplace.Gam
Thank you Joseph. I will check that first of this week. That is true. It has been fine for 2.5 years but this early summer. PEE EEW!! How about one of those vents they put on the barns that look like a silver ball with slits and spins. Now that would be a vent and a conversation piece. LOL! Beverly Hillbillies ain't got nothin' on me. :)) ^.^d
The other one is open the door for the washer and take a whiff. If you don't us the washer the water in it's dishcharge hose and trap can evaporate . Gam
Gam,
I plan on using the washer Monday for just the reason you mentioned. I did notice one thing today. It was a little windy and from where my GV sits it could force air down the vent instead of out. Now that it is evening and the air has calmed substantially, the pungent sent has diminished. For this, I have ordered a Cyclone 360 vent that should help alleviate this problem. Thanks Gam and all.
Please stay away from using bleach and PineSol. Not necessary at all. If you try the washing machine, run a cycle with a goodly amount of plain old white vinegar. That will help dissolve any muck lurking around in the hoses and drains, and it will also help deodorize your grey tank. PLUS, if the washer has any sort of leak, you will not be stuck with a load of wet clothes or a soapy mess to clean up.
My last outing was a bit more odiferous than usual, so after reading this thread, I went out and poked around under my sinks. I don't have a valve in the kitchen, but I do under the bathroom sink. Since this coach has seen its share of heat the past half-dozen years, I figure any rubber valve as described is probably toast on this 11 yr old coach. I grabbed it and it was firmly in place. Do these need a pipe wrench to get off? I hate to use too heavy of a hand on plastic. Thanks.
Oh...and is there any valve in the "T" fitting on the roof that I need to periodically worry about?
Seems many of us have noticed stinky odors from the tanks. Traveling with a window or ceiling vent open could overpower the vacuum normally created by even with my rotating, venturi style roof vent caps. I theorize any increased air pressure inside the coach might burp the seal of the sewer pipe rubber flapper.
Usually the yucky odor seems to be coming from the stool sewer pipe vent in the adjacent closet. Suppression with bacterial additives might help considerably; however, an open window or ceiling vent seems to guarantee the problem from nearly full tanks. Fortunately, draining them always resolves the problem... for a few days.
Jim
2002 320 42'
I realize there are many alternate layouts of plumbing but on my coach some of these auto vents could be easily eliminated by "reventing" a standard plumbing procedure to the vent riser. Unless I'm missing some special concept of RV plumbing, the only time you need an auto vent is when you don't have access to a vent stack. Automatic vents are a last ditch solution in plumbing, to be avoided if at all possible as good practice.
Just cap the Auto-Vents with a 1-1/4 ABS cap, they are not needed.